This topic came up in a conversation last night, and I wanted to share...
Unlike others, mine wasn't a dish that evoked a long-ago place or memory, it was one that gave me the sure knowledge that a new and long standing connection had been created.
We'd spent a chilly November day on the Alsatian route du vin, sampling Rieslings and Crémants. Our destination was a place we'd only read about, a remote hotel on a one lane road in the Vosges mountains, between two towns with perhaps one street light to their names. There, Jean-Georges Klein had taken his family's modest mountain restaurant and turned it into a *** Michelin retreat, L'Arnsbourg. It was raining and getting dark as we stalled our little Opel at the front door of Hotel K after a steep, curving ascent. There was a fire crackling within and we were greeted with champagne and three small gold foil wrapped packages, looking for all the world like chocolates. This was the first sign that, here, good things come in threes and looks can be deceiving. They were impeccable squares of emmental, saucisson and head cheese. Thus rewarded for our brave journey (in the words of the maitre'd), we changed and headed back down the hill to dinner.
The dining room would have made Frank Lloyd Wright proud, with warm woods and giant windows, cantilevered out over a rolling mountain meadow with a stream running through. But the view couldn't hold a candle to what would soon be on the plate. It arrived surreptitiously, the third or fourth of what were listed on the menu simply as 'various amuses'. Three silver spoons with exaggerated looped handles were set down atop a rectangular plate in a North-South orientation. At first glance, the presentation likely seemed ostentatious, even trite.
Each spoon held cauliflower puree topped with roe. The nearest was salmon, the middle mackerel and the farthest Ossetra caviar. As a progression, they were a revelation. The caviar bite was the perfect harmony of tastes, and it was wonderfully highlighted by the delicious, but slightly incongruous, bites that preceded it. Had Chef Klein simply served the caviar bite, it would have been undoubtedly great. By serving the bites in progression, it was a masterpiece.
I don't think it was the excellence of the bite that evoked my emotional reaction, though. What really moved me was how connected I felt to the man who composed it. I had been reading about him and his cooking for a long time leading up to the meal, and I worried that it wouldn't be able to live up to my expectations. In this moment, those fears were gone, and a deep understanding of what he was doing out there in the middle of nowhere was ingrained not just in my palate, but in my consciousness.
Other great dishes would follow (unadorned blue lobster beside a puree of a Himalayan berry that made it taste like it had been drenched in butter, 'forgotten vegetables' and foraged mushrooms perfumed by truffle soup hidden beneath their perforated plate), but I won't ever forget the taste or emotion of that cauliflower and caviar. Despite what Hallmark says, memories aren't generally something you can manufacture. In the moment I tasted it, I knew that it had left a mark, and to be in that moment was truly moving.