Book: Hamburgers & Fries

I just spent several days at a work-related "retreat," reading, in my spare time, John T. Edge's latest book "Hamburgers & Fries: An American Story." While not in the least comprehensive (and he admits it; fries, in particular, gettting slighted), it's thoroughly enjoyable.

I second his recommendation of Oklahoma onion burgers. A few years ago, I distance-dated (loong story) a woman from OKC. During a trip to visit her, we passed Bunny's Onion Burgers.

"Um . . . what's a Onion Burger?" I inquired.

"Don't know," she said. "Never been there. It's been there since I was a child."

Of course, I decreed that we must stop.

A middle-aged woman (Bunny?) was at the counter.

"Ma'am," I said, "I'll have an onion burger with all the fixings."

She nodded, approvingly, and dipped her hand into a bucket at her feet, flinging thinly sliced onions onto a grill. Her other hand then palmed a fistful of ground beef, which she plopped onto to the onions.

Then, she produced a heavy, industrial-sized flipper that would've been perfectly at home at Farm and Fleet, and commenced to whooping the hell out of the griddling mound of onions and beef.

The result: wonderful and juicy burger, with crispy/carmelized onions, bun, lettuce, tomato, pickle, mustard. I'm glad I had paper towels in the car.

I often repeat this at home, in a cast-iron skillet or on my outside griddle.

My date is a distant memory, but I'll forever be in love with Bunny's Onion Burgers.

To toast John T. Edge, tonight's dinner is a classic burger from Mike's Ale House: 1/2-pound, hand-formed, medium-rare, on toasted bun, with mustard, onions, tomato, and pickle.



Mike's Ale House
5134 W. Irving Park
773-685-2260
Mon.-Sun.: 11 a.m.-2 a.m.
delivery:
Mon.-Thurs.: 4-10 p.m.
Fri.-Sat.: 4-11 p.m.
Sun.: 3-10 p.m.

Hamburgers & Fries: An American Story

Cheers,
Wade

One thing I really miss about burgers in Kansas-- and this is one of the few things I miss about Kansas, period-- is that the best burger joints wouldn't dream of using the frozen hockey pucks that are inescapable here; a typical set up would be the one I remember from Bionic Burger in Wichita, where they ground the meat shortly before you ordered and formed little balls which sat on little squares of white craft paper; when it was time to fry yours, they would grab the paper in hand and smack it down, burger side first, onto the grill, searing it instantly. Fresh beef with little uneven salty crumbly bits, caramelized onions, mustard and ketchup, a fresh bun... as the state's promotional slogan of 20 years ago put it, ahhhh, Kansas.

Bionic Burger. (See #3.)

Wade

Fine looking burger indeed. I drive by Mike's on the way to my office and have always wondered what the deal was with his moving into Tony and Lill's Pizza. Have you tried the pizza there?

JSM

JSM,

I've tried the cheese. It's good, but I defer to Pete's, Maries, and Noli's, all within a quick stop or home delivery.

Mike's burgers are another thing. They're the classic: hand-formed, cooked to order, on a toasted bun (very nice wedge of pickle, too). They have, oh, 10 versions, some of which I would never try (as a burger purist), such as the Jumpin' Jack Burger (guacamole, jack cheese). The Black-and Bleu (blue cheese and black pepper) is scrumptuous, but the Big Cheeseburger (pictured above) is damned near perfect.

Cheers,
Wade

Hi,

I know John T Edge via my Culinary Historian activities as well as member of his Southern Foodways Alliance.

Last year, I bought both his fried chicken and apple pie books. He knew I was doing research on the history of pies. He immediately cautioned me not to consider his books as basis for my research. It wasn't oral history precisely or thoroughly vetted information, but rather anecdotal and human interest. I assume the same could be said of Hamburger and Fries.

John T Edge is always a fun read and his voice in person is reflected in his writing. There are hints he may be coming to Chicago sometime to follow the Mother-In-Law (Tamale in hot dog bun with chili on top) if there are any links to the tamale culture in Mississippi. If indeed he comes, then I hope to arrange a program with him.

Regards,