Chicago-style ribs

Is anyone else irritated by America's Test Kitchen/Cook's Country's promo re: how to make "Chicago-style, fall-off-the-bone ribs?" I've thought Chicago-style ribs were generally defined as ribs with a bit of chew, from an aquarium-style smoker. It grates on me (an easy thing to do) to hear meat jello as the defining style of Chicago ribs. Others' thoughts?

Sadly, when I think of "Chicago-style ribs," the first thing that comes to mind is Twin Anchors . . . which specializes in fall-off-the-bone ribs and meat jello. That also seems to be the style people talk about loving at places like Gale Street Inn. But I'm not sure it's limited to Chicago . . . I think you find this style of ribs all over the country.

Luckily, there are now many places in Chicago to find ribs that don't fall off the bone and which have great chew.

There is that fine line between "fall off the bone" and "ribs with chew" that's hard to get right. Personally, I cook ribs "fast", ala Buddy Halsell of the Dixie Pig in Blytheville, AR (now deceased), and they're ready to go after 2 hours or so on the grill. Nothing on them but some Tony Chachere Cajun Seasoning. Interestingly, I had a conversation with Buddy when he ran Brothers BBQ in Heber Springs, AR, where he confided he used the same "fast" method in cooking shoulder. No more than 5 hours and steaming piles of pulled pork were coming out of the kitchen.

Of course, restaurants use the same methods and equipment day after day, so you're always going to get meal jello if that's their MO. And, I agree with you that the fall-off-the-bone result is not what most afficianados look for.

When I think of Chicago-style ribs I get a mental picture of the bullet-proof glass window with the pass-through at Lem's, or the I-57 BBQ in Country Club Hills.

nr706 wrote:Is anyone else irritated by America's Test Kitchen/Cook's Country's promo re: how to make "Chicago-style, fall-off-the-bone ribs?" I've thought Chicago-style ribs were generally defined as ribs with a bit of chew, from an aquarium-style smoker. It grates on me (an easy thing to do) to hear meat jello as the defining style of Chicago ribs. Others' thoughts?

This is a religious argument, like the one people have over whether Pizzeria Uno-inspired deep dish or cut-in-squares flat pizza is the true Chicago-style pizza, or whether run-through-the-garden wieners with tomatoes and pickles on poppyseed buns or seed-free versions topped with mustard, relish, onions, sport peppers and french fries are the real Chicago-style hot dogs.

For better or worse, fall-off-the-bone, oven-braised ribs are a style intrinsically associated with this city. You don't have to like them and you probably shouldn't call them "barbecue," but you have to acknowledge that those ribs are here and they have a strong following.

JeffB wrote:To avoid confusion, I think that we need to distinguish between BBQ and "North Side" or "tavern" ribs....

Apart from the cut of pork, the North Side, tavern rib places are entirely different. While it's not BBQ, I wholly enjoy, from time to time, a succulent slab from Biasettis or Gale Street or even some of the many, many pizza places that use their ovens for double duty. I guess I don't see how folks can enjoy slow-cooked, falling apart pot roast, short ribs, or ox tail, but eschew completely the taste of soft, succulent, long-braised pork ribs. Even Alton Brown devoted a whole show to oven ribs. Other good mushy ribs can be found at home in my red sauce or in the classic Italian dish with cooked-down, caramelized milk. Just don't call em BBQ.

Speaking of Italian-style ribs, I just had some wonderful baby backs in that style from Sapori Trattoria in Lakeview: "Milk and Honey Baby Back Ribs -- Delicate grilled baby back ribs (pork) marinated in honey and thyme finished in a slow braise with fresh milk and a touch of citrus." They were braised with thin strips of caramelized carrots and deeply flavorful.

Sapori Trattoria
2701 N. Halsted St.
http://www.saporitrattoria.net
773-832-9999

LAZ wrote:

nr706 wrote:Is anyone else irritated by America's Test Kitchen/Cook's Country's promo re: how to make "Chicago-style, fall-off-the-bone ribs?" I've thought Chicago-style ribs were generally defined as ribs with a bit of chew, from an aquarium-style smoker. It grates on me (an easy thing to do) to hear meat jello as the defining style of Chicago ribs. Others' thoughts?

This is a religious argument, like the one people have over whether Pizzeria Uno-inspired deep dish or cut-in-squares flat pizza is the true Chicago-style pizza, or whether run-through-the-garden wieners with tomatoes and pickles on poppyseed buns or seed-free versions topped with mustard, relish, onions, sport peppers and french fries are the real Chicago-style hot dogs.

For better or worse, fall-off-the-bone, oven-braised ribs are a style intrinsically associated with this city. You don't have to like them and you probably shouldn't call them "barbecue," but you have to acknowledge that those ribs are here and they have a strong following.

And don’t forget the sauce.

David Hammond wrote: And don’t forget the sauce.

Haven't we already had this conversation like a million times?

=R=

I don't think of fall-off-the-bone as Chicago ribs at all, because my childhood memories of ribs are all from Carsons, which, IIRC, grills them rather than smokes, and it's more like a skinny pork chop to chew off the bone. Meat-jello (usually wet-cooked) ribs were things I'd send back and order something else.

After two batches of Low and Slow ribs made at home, I've got no interest in Carsons, and little interest in getting them elsewhere at 5X the price. It's toothsome and pulls cleanly off the bone, but doesn't, by any stretch of the imagination, fall.

Smoque's are very similar in texture... I haven't had too many other "good" ribs in Chicago, only by dearth of trying, not bad experiences.

ronnie_suburban wrote:Haven't we already had this conversation like a million times?

The quotation from JeffB above is from 2004, shortly after this forum was founded.

The question mark could have been placed after America's Test Kitchen.

http://www.chicagotribune.com/entertainment/dining/ct-met-kass-0430-20100430,0,6753543.column

John Kass weighs in on the subject of ribs at his favorite Chicago que joint

JoelF wrote:After two batches of Low and Slow ribs made at home, I've got no interest in Carsons, and little interest in getting them elsewhere at 5X the price. It's toothsome and pulls cleanly off the bone, but doesn't, by any stretch of the imagination, fall.

I have to second Joel's opinion.
After having my own Low N Slow (Thank you Gary) Ribs fresh off my own WSM,
juicy and dripping with smoky goodness (and NO sauce)
I am ruined for just about everything else....
sigh....

Hi,

There was a lot of acceptable BBQ before I knew better. Now that I am in the know, I am too easily displeased. I have returned to places that once were destination BBQ to have them fail to meet my homemade efforts.

There once was this gold era where a lot more food was BBQ. Boiled on the stove and baked in the oven or a lot of sauce and a pork butt in a slowcookers. Now I eat, smile and keep my thoughts to myself.

Regards,

Took a business associate visiting from India to Honey 1 for lunch today. Our ribs were insanely good; with a perfect bark that was crispy but not insurmountable. The meat below was unctuous, fatty and flavorful, and needed only a moderate tug to pull away from the bone. A great way to show a visitor some genuine Chicago-style BBQ.

As a side note, it was great listening to our friend chat with Mr. Adams about the similarities between an aquarium cooker and a tandoor.

=R=

ronnie_suburban wrote:As a side note, it was great listening to our friend chat with Mr. Adams about the similarities between an aquarium cooker and a tandoor.

=R=

Wow, wish I had been a fly on the wall for that one.

I would hazard a quess that there isn't an "aquarium smoker" in the state of GA (maybe in Atlanta). Most que shacks have some variety of hand-built brick pit or metal smoker. One of the local meat stores has a flimsy plywood structure out back with a wood-fueled smoker that is literally always working. I saw one small joint today using a '50s style brick pit with chimney that was often found in suburban backyards and used as a grill.

The "volume" place in town is an outpost of Sonny's BBQ, which uses gas and pre-formed uniform pieces of re-manufactured meat. I don't understand why anybody goes there.

There is one local place that uses gas, but he has the best sauce and kick-ass chicken salad. He also has a huge rotisserie rig that he hauls to events. It uses a waterpan on the bottom. He can cook something like 140 chicken halves at one time.

I stick with the place near my house that is owned by a retired GA state trooper. He recently expanded to 6 tables. Great pulled pork, brunswick stew, and pimento cheese spread sandwiches.

Many grocery stores also grill or smoke on Saturday right on the parking lot. Do your shopping and pick up a smoked butt on the way out.

David Hammond wrote:

ronnie_suburban wrote:As a side note, it was great listening to our friend chat with Mr. Adams about the similarities between an aquarium cooker and a tandoor.

=R=

Wow, wish I had been a fly on the wall for that one.

I'd think the tandoor is more akin to a wood burning pizza oven (i.e., high temps) - as generally used. Lower temps could be sustained, though. Interesting, never thought much about using it like that before. However, I often think of my WSM as a metal tandoor. Wish I could get things to stick to its side walls (but not in its current state ).

Tandoors seem to be getting popular
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/8626584.stm
(video clip min. and half clip with preceding 30 sec ad)

Actually, a Tandoor is probably physically more similar to a Big Green Egg -- ceramic insulation and all