Curtis Duffy is leaving Avenues, aiming for the 3rd Michelin
Curtis Duffy is leaving Avenues, aiming for the 3rd Michelin
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Curtis Duffy is leaving Avenues, aiming for the 3rd Michelin
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Post #1 - July 13th, 2011, 1:14 pmExclusive report from the Trib:
http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/ ... 1112.story
I wonder if there is any more (insider) information on this.
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Post #2 - July 13th, 2011, 1:27 pmGot to laugh at this bit:In what might be the most significant departure of a chef since Achatz left Trio to open Alinea, the Tribune has learned that Duffy will be leaving two Michelin-starred Avenues in the Peninsula Hotel to head his own restaurant.
I'm not sure how you measure the significance of a chef leaving a restaurant, but Mr. Pang seems impressed by the number of Michelin stars left behind. In which case this seems pretty significant too.
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Post #3 - July 13th, 2011, 1:44 pmI think it will be very interesting to see what Duffy can do out on his own. I'm really excited about this.
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Post #4 - July 13th, 2011, 2:33 pmGood for Curtis! Can't wait to see what he does next.
Fwiw, in this diner's opinion, I don't think chefs leave their stars behind. I think the stars travel with the chefs. It's Avenues that'll be losing its stars.
=R=By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
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Post #5 - July 13th, 2011, 3:11 pmWondering whether the Michelin stars followed the chef or restaurant, I found this interesting article.
French chef Roellinger gives up his three Michelin starsFrench chef Olivier Roellinger is handing back the three Michelin stars awarded to his restaurant Le Relais Gourmand on France's Brittany coast and closing up shop this week, hoping for an easier life.
After 24 years in the Michelin guidebook, Roellinger, 53, said problems with his leg meant he could no longer be on his feet all day, running his restaurant that boasts the top Michelin rating after starting as a guest house and restaurant in 1982.
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"But I said to myself, I need to hang on for at least three years. I held on for three years, and today, it would not be reasonable for me to continue to cook, to be on my feet in front of my piano, so to speak, for close to eight hours a day."
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The Relais Gourmand will close, but Roellinger and his wife Jane will continue to operate other eateries and shops that are part of their Maisons de Bricourt company, such as the bistro restaurant Le Coquillage which includes a cooking school, spice shop, bed-and-breakfast, and a bakery.
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Roellinger is the fourth three-star Michelin chef in France to renounce his stars, following Joel Robuchon, Alain Senderens and Antoine Westermann.
This has sparked talk that the excessive pressure of measuring up to Michelinstandards is forcing some great chefs out of their kitchens.
"I believe that Roellinger is giving up his three stars because he is tired. Tired of the high level, tired of being like a high-performance athlete, tired of putting himself on the line twice a day," said EmmanuelRubin, a French food critic and author of culinary guide books.
"Running a three-star Michelin restaurant is like scoring 20 out of 20. That means perfection, more than perfection. It is obvious that in order to maintain that level of perfection, you need to have huge talent and above all, an enormous capacity for work."
Roellinger said he was not comfortable with the idea of being responsible for serving three-star cuisine but letting someone else do the work.
"It would make me feel dishonest," he said, adding that his personal life had also suffered over the years.
...Cathy2
"You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways, Road Food 2012: Podcast
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Post #6 - July 13th, 2011, 3:18 pmGiven that the 3 Michelin stars = the highest honor. Losing a star often means the declining in some way. I guess many chef/owner would rather give up their star than seeing it's declining.Cathy2 wrote:Wondering whether the Michelin stars followed the chef or restaurant, I found this interesting article.
French chef Roellinger gives up his three Michelin starsFrench chef Olivier Roellinger is handing back the three Michelin stars awarded to his restaurant Le Relais Gourmand on France's Brittany coast and closing up shop this week, hoping for an easier life.
After 24 years in the Michelin guidebook, Roellinger, 53, said problems with his leg meant he could no longer be on his feet all day, running his restaurant that boasts the top Michelin rating after starting as a guest house and restaurant in 1982.
...
"But I said to myself, I need to hang on for at least three years. I held on for three years, and today, it would not be reasonable for me to continue to cook, to be on my feet in front of my piano, so to speak, for close to eight hours a day."
...
The Relais Gourmand will close, but Roellinger and his wife Jane will continue to operate other eateries and shops that are part of their Maisons de Bricourt company, such as the bistro restaurant Le Coquillage which includes a cooking school, spice shop, bed-and-breakfast, and a bakery.
...
Roellinger is the fourth three-star Michelin chef in France to renounce his stars, following Joel Robuchon, Alain Senderens and Antoine Westermann.
This has sparked talk that the excessive pressure of measuring up to Michelinstandards is forcing some great chefs out of their kitchens.
"I believe that Roellinger is giving up his three stars because he is tired. Tired of the high level, tired of being like a high-performance athlete, tired of putting himself on the line twice a day," said EmmanuelRubin, a French food critic and author of culinary guide books.
"Running a three-star Michelin restaurant is like scoring 20 out of 20. That means perfection, more than perfection. It is obvious that in order to maintain that level of perfection, you need to have huge talent and above all, an enormous capacity for work."
Roellinger said he was not comfortable with the idea of being responsible for serving three-star cuisine but letting someone else do the work.
"It would make me feel dishonest," he said, adding that his personal life had also suffered over the years.
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Post #7 - July 13th, 2011, 3:23 pmHI,
Laurant Gras leaving L2O didn't knock off their Michelin rating, did it?
What may happen the next time it is reviewed, that may be another thing.
Regards,Cathy2
"You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways, Road Food 2012: Podcast
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Post #8 - July 13th, 2011, 3:36 pmCathy2 wrote:HI,
Laurant Gras leaving L2O didn't knock off their Michelin rating, did it?
What may happen the next time it is reviewed, that may be another thing.
Regards,
No and you're right that it may drop next time they rank.
But in practical terms, I think it's unrealistic to assume that the driving, creative force in a kitchen could leave and that things would remain the same. Again, as a diner, I'm not necessarily buying into that notion. I'm not saying it couldn't happen or doesn't happen. I'm just saying that I'm much more inclined to give credit for a restaurant's success to the chef than any other single factor. Once he or she leaves, those stars are gone, too, IMO (or at least have to be re-earned).
=R=By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
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Post #9 - July 13th, 2011, 3:39 pmHI,
Despite the stars, it remains buyer beware.
Regards,Cathy2
"You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways, Road Food 2012: Podcast
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Post #10 - July 13th, 2011, 3:45 pmCathy2 wrote:HI,
Despite the stars, it remains buyer beware.
Regards,
LOL! So true . . . especially when it comes to Michelin's Chicago rankings.
Getting back to Avenues, I think it's a tough venue for chefs for a lot of reasons. It'll be a thrill to see what Curtis can do once he's less encumbered.
=R=By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
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Post #11 - July 13th, 2011, 3:55 pmsuggest some white framed glasses for him."In pursuit of joys untasted"
from Giuseppe Verdi's La Traviata
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Post #12 - July 13th, 2011, 3:57 pmronnie_suburban wrote:Cathy2 wrote:HI,
Laurant Gras leaving L2O didn't knock off their Michelin rating, did it?
What may happen the next time it is reviewed, that may be another thing.
Regards,
No and you're right that it may drop next time they rank.
But in practical terms, I think it's unrealistic to assume that the driving, creative force in a kitchen could leave and that things would remain the same. Again, as a diner, I'm not necessarily buying into that notion. I'm not saying it couldn't happen or doesn't happen. I'm just saying that I'm much more inclined to give credit for a restaurant's success to the chef than any other single factor. Once he or she leaves, those stars are gone, too, IMO (or at least have to be re-earned).
=R=
I think in practical terms, when a chef leaves a three (or two) star restaurant, both the restaurant and the chef will continue to claim those stars. It's up to the diner to decide where the stars should actually reside.Steve Z.
“Only the pure in heart can make a good soup.”
― Ludwig van Beethoven
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Post #13 - July 13th, 2011, 4:16 pmstevez wrote:I think in practical terms, when a chef leaves a three (or two) star restaurant, both the restaurant and the chef will continue to claim those stars. It's up to the diner to decide where the stars should actually reside.
True. But we diners know the "real" score.
=R=By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain
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Post #14 - July 13th, 2011, 4:48 pmronnie_suburban wrote:True. But we diners know the "real" score.
=R=
Certainly! And one meal at both the chef's old and new location will immediately confirm (or refute) our opinion.Steve Z.
“Only the pure in heart can make a good soup.”
― Ludwig van Beethoven
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Post #15 - July 13th, 2011, 4:54 pmWell, I think that Curtis deserved that 3rd Michelin Star at Avenues. Aside from Alinea (everything is aside from Alinea), Avenues is the best restaurant in Chicago.
For the record, I will be willing to invest just enough in his new restaurant so that I won't have to go through the humiliation of trying to get tickets a la Next.
Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik
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Post #16 - July 13th, 2011, 4:58 pmIs there any news when Curtis is leaving Avenues? I hope that he gives us (and them) enough time to dine once again and to choose another prodigy chef.Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik
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Post #17 - July 13th, 2011, 8:00 pmGAF wrote:Is there any news when Curtis is leaving Avenues? I hope that he gives us (and them) enough time to dine once again and to choose another prodigy chef.
It will take quite awhile for things to up and run, and the chef probably still work up until the month before the opening date. So I would say that as long as you dine there within the next couple of months, he will still be there. But that's just my guess.
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Post #18 - July 13th, 2011, 8:03 pmtheskinnyduck wrote:GAF wrote:Is there any news when Curtis is leaving Avenues? I hope that he gives us (and them) enough time to dine once again and to choose another prodigy chef.
It will take quite awhile for things to up and run, and the chef probably still work up until the month before the opening date. So I would say that as long as you dine there within the next couple of months, he will still be there. But that's just my guess.
The odds that a serious chef starting a serious new place will work somewhere else right up until the month before the new place opens are approximately zero percent....defended from strong temptations to social ambition by a still stronger taste for tripe and onions." Screwtape in The Screwtape Letters by CS Lewis
Fuckerberg on Food
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Post #19 - July 14th, 2011, 9:38 amKennyz wrote:
The odds that a serious chef starting a serious new place will work somewhere else right up until the month before the new place opens are approximately zero percent.
Correct....I remember reading an article yesterday that he's leaving in September.
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Post #20 - July 14th, 2011, 12:04 pmmilz50 wrote:Correct....I remember reading an article yesterday that he's leaving in September.
Yep, per Eater Chicago he will be leaving "sometime in late September."
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Post #21 - July 28th, 2011, 3:15 pmIt's official, September 3rd is his last day (per his tweet)
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Post #22 - September 8th, 2011, 2:10 pmNot only has Chef Duffy left, but Avenues as we know it has closed for good and for all. The Peninsula website announces:
"Avenues announces a new chapter in 2012 as the restaurant undergoes a renovation and an exciting new concept. Please look for details in 2012."
It was a great run for the best hotel dining in Chicago (at least since Sarah Stegner left the Ritz). Thank you to both GEB and Curtis Duffy for making the Peninsula the top hotel in Chicago.Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik
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Post #23 - September 8th, 2011, 2:30 pmI think they're probably going for a slight downscaling ala NoMi to conform to the present econmic conditions.Steve Z.
“Only the pure in heart can make a good soup.”
― Ludwig van Beethoven
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Post #24 - September 8th, 2011, 2:50 pmPerhaps. But Avenues has been one of their selling points, and with room rates up to $750, they might not be wise to cater to the cost-conscious consumer. Time will tell, as it always does.Toast, as every breakfaster knows, isn't really about the quality of the bread or how it's sliced or even the toaster. For man cannot live by toast alone. It's all about the butter. -- Adam Gopnik
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Post #25 - September 12th, 2011, 6:36 pmWhen some friends of mine stayed there last yr. continental breakfast for two and a pot of coffee from room service was $60. Even if you can afford that, it's hard not to feel like a fool paying for it."In pursuit of joys untasted"
from Giuseppe Verdi's La Traviata
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Post #26 - September 13th, 2011, 4:05 amThe kitchen is tiny. I know they have a separate prep area (downstairs maybe...can't remember), but there are only so many plates they can serve in an evening. That may limit their options regarding the new concept.
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