"Best" part of Chicago to live in?

I currently live in Old Town, very convienant with tons of ammenities literally at my doorstep, but in a condo that is a bit too small.

As a result, I have started to consider moving to another part of town, hence my question:

"What part (of Chicago) would you consider the 'best' part to live in?"

- should have great resources for the home cook (good groceries, good markets, bonus points for ethnic groceries or other interesting shops)

- should have good nearby places to eat

- must be connected to the rest of the city (and the loop) for easy and quick commutes without driving

Shannon

I think the neighborhood that best meets your listed criteria is going to be Albany Park, particularly the stretch of Kedzie, north of Irving Park.

Shannon Clark wrote:- should have great resources for the home cook (good groceries, good markets, bonus points for ethnic groceries or other interesting shops)

There are quite a few options including the excellent Cermak Produce on Kedzie.

Shannon Clark wrote:should have good nearby places to eat

There are a ton of Latino, Middle Eastern, and Korean restaurants (among others).

Shannon Clark wrote:must be connected to the rest of the city (and the loop) for easy and quick commutes without driving

Just south of Lawrence you have access to the Brown Line.

Shannon,

Partisan as I am to my neighborhood (Edison Park), I don't know that it's the "best" place to live in--given your criteria--it might be a bit remote.

If I was looking for a condo, in an interesting area, with access to transportation, good food, proximity to downtown, I'd look around the Grand Avenue corridor, roughly between Halsted on the east, Western on the west, Chicago on the north, and Kinzie on the south. Within these boundaries you have Italian, Mexican, Polish, Ukranian, and--for lack of a better term, and no insult or judgement meant-Yuppie neighborhoods, restaurants and stores. You can access the el, numerous bus lines (including the all important diagonal routes of Milwaukee and Grand), you're close to the metra stations downtown, and if you need to rent a car or you buy a car, you're close to the expressways. Plus, the neighborhoods themselves are interesting--full of old two-flats and beautiful churches, along with newer developments.

Andersonville.

Convenient to Argyle/Vietnamese

Edgewater Produce is there. The middle eastern grocer is there.

35-45 minutes to downtown on the red line.

Andersonville.

Convenient to Argyle/Vietnamese

Edgewater Produce is there. The middle eastern grocer is there.

35-45 minutes to downtown on the red line.

I agree, except want to recommend its 'neighbor', Edgewater. We moved there in December, and feel really content with it. We walk/bike to Andersonville all the time, have a short walk to the Thorndale stop on the train (to go both downtown, and the quick trip north to Evanston), enjoy the range of places to market and eat, (from Moody's to Argyle street) and the Jewel/Dominicks on Broadway aren't too bad for staples. Edgewater farmers' market every Saturday as well.

As far as the rents go, we're in a 2 bedroom for 1000/month, nice hardwood floors and fresh paint, dishwasher, porch. Oh and we're a 5 minute walk to the lake, which I love.

I think Albany park is likely to be too remote. It is, after all, an almost 45 minute trip on the brown line to the Loop, in my experience.

Logan Square really isn't all that bad for the home cook, but you will have trouble finding stuff like ghee or juniper berries at the local grocery stores. There are a number of good restaurants either nearby or easily accessible, and it's a short ride on the blue line to the loop.

-ed

john m wrote:If I was looking for a condo, in an interesting area, with access to transportation, good food, proximity to downtown, I'd look around the Grand Avenue corridor, roughly between Halsted on the east, Western on the west, Chicago on the north, and Kinzie on the south. Within these boundaries you have Italian, Mexican, Polish, Ukranian, and--for lack of a better term, and no insult or judgement meant-Yuppie neighborhoods, restaurants and stores.

I always thought Lincoln Square would be a great neighborhood to live in if I should decide to move out of downtown. Lots of great chow places nearby.
My neighborhood has its advantages, but I would not count being close to Grand Ave as one of them. Maybe the concrete is always greener...

I will have lived in the western part of Lincoln Square for 28 years in August, so I may be a bit biased. On the other hand, I haven't found anyplace else that has been very tempting. For purposes of discussion, let's say 4400 to 5000 north and Western to the Chicago River.

This location gives good access to the more interesting parts of Lincoln Square and Albany Park, all of which are in walking distance in decent weather. Harvest Time in the 2600 block of Lawrence is operated by the same people as Edgewater Produce. Two farmers markets are convenient: Lincoln Square on Tuesday and North Center on Saturday.

The Rockwell Brown Line stop has been the last stop toward the Loop with reasonably reliable seat availability although if the CTA switches to those cars with fewer seats that may cease. Expect 30-35 minutes on the train from Rockwell to Washington and Wells. Going around the Loop takes about 10 minutes, so adjust accordingly. You also have easy access to the Lawrence, Lincoln (not so hot service), Western and North Western buses.

messycook wrote:

Andersonville.

I agree, except want to recommend its 'neighbor', Edgewater.

Everything I said about Andersonville is equally true of Edgewater; indeed Andersonville is a part of the official Edgewater community. When Chicago aligned itself into official community areas, certain historic neighborhood names (e.g. Andersonville, Back of the Yards, Ukrainian Village) were not included as official Chicago communities. (I'm sure that there was a lengthy and ugly fight about this at the time; if anyone knows the history, I'd be interested in learning it.)

Keep eating,
J. Ro

I am ready to move to Edison Park ...

J. Ro wrote:

When Chicago aligned itself into official community areas, certain historic neighborhood names (e.g. Andersonville, Back of the Yards, Ukrainian Village) were not included as official Chicago communities. (I'm sure that there was a lengthy and ugly fight about this at the time; if anyone knows the history, I'd be interested in learning it.)

I'm pretty sure this division of Chicago into communities was in the 1920s, but I don't think there was much of a fight about this. The community areas are kind of meaningless, really, at least for the purpose of the average citizen. They don't have anything to do with political wards, which would be what one would think the purpose was. I believe they were set up for census purposes.

Sometimes they match actual neighborhoods (i.e., the only neighborhood in the community area of Edison Park is Edison Park); other times they include several neighborhoods (the Forest Glen community area includes the Forest Glen, Sauganash, Edgebrook and Wildwood neighborhoods); and sometimes, they make no sense at all (the New City commmunity area includes Canaryville and Back of the Yards, but no neighborhood called New City.)

The only situation I'm aware of where there was a fuss was in the late 1970s, when residents of neighborhoods north of Uptown (including Andesonville, Lakewood Balmoral, and St. Gertrudes), tired of the connotations that Uptown had (gangs, hillbilly bars, rampant drug addiction) raised enough of a stink to get a new community area designated, and called Edgwater.

jlawrence01 wrote:

I am ready to move to Edison Park ..

Any questions about EP, I can help--although there are a few other posters (GWiv in particular) who have an encylopedic knowledge of food on the far northwest side.

john m wrote:The only situation I'm aware of where there was a fuss was in the late 1970s, when residents of neighborhoods north of Uptown (including Andesonville, Lakewood Balmoral, and St. Gertrudes), tired of the connotations that Uptown had (gangs, hillbilly bars, rampant drug addiction) raised enough of a stink to get a new community area designated, and called Edgwater.

Very interesting. I had no idea that edgewater was a deliberate and recent carve out to avoid certain socio-political ideas/realities. I'm fascinated by neighborhood politics, especially when they revolve around urban change, crime, etc.

Keep eating,
J. Ro

Many times new neighborhoods are created by opportunistic real estate developers for the same reasons that Edgewater was created. One example that comes to mind is the neighborhood of Old Irving. Up until real estate prices in that area started to rise because the existing stock of homes were being rehabbed and gentrified, the area was just a part of Jefferson Park. In order to differentiate (sp?) the area (and drive the prices even higher), the neighborhood of Old Irving was born. There are examples of this all over Chicago. Many areas of the South Side are being renamed right now as well .

The "neighborhood" names are most definately driven by the real estate folks. In one news room or another of the city, there are maps side by side of neighborhood names...one from the 80's and one maybe 5 years old. New neighborhoods appear as the areas gentrify. I can't site an example off the top of my head, but I'm pretty sure that "Ukranian Village" as such didn't exist, and fer sure not "Roscoe Village". A native Chicagoan is most likely to refer to the intersection, park, or parish closest by, not some real estate name. I live in "Oriole Park", and that is indeed the closest park, but no-one here ever calls it that. I live near Harlem & Foster [not that that's anything to brag about].

Speaking of which, what do you like so much about Edison Park? I find this area of the city sadly lacking in amenities, frankly.

Giovanna

I just wanted to point to a related conversation elsewhere in this forum
that goes to the question of what are these community names and where did they come from. The short answer is they came from the University of Chicago sociology department in the 1920s, but there's more information in the links mentioned in that discussion for anyone who wants to follow this trail a little further
http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=771

Giovanna wrote:

Speaking of which, what do you like so much about Edison Park? I find this area of the city sadly lacking in amenities, frankly.

Well, where do I start? Given the nature of this forum, how about restaurants and bars. Within a two block stretch of Northwest Highway, you have Don Juan's, Zias, Tony's Deli, Conca d'Oro, Nam Viet, Nonno Pino, Elliots, Morettis, Basta, Edison Park Inn, Nicks, the Emerald Isle, Edison Park Palace, the Blarney Stone, the Mecca, and Cafe Borgata.

I'd place the first two I mentioned as among the top of their kind in the city: somewhat upcale Mexican at Don Juan's, and mid-range Italian at Zia's (in my view, much better than Mia Francesca, Roseangelis, Rosebud, etc.) Tony's Deli is a good Italian Deli--not the best subs in the city, but still pretty good (actually, I think their meatball sub is one of the best). Nonno's and Basta are Italian American--nothing too spectacular, but perfectly good food, at reasonable prices, in a family-friendly atmosphere. Morettis, while average food wise, does have a very pleasant beer garden. The Blarney Stone is a new bar that opened up in what used to be the function room of Edison Park Palace (which was formerly Ruby D and me.) Conca D'Oro is a pretty good bakery, with very good sheet pizza. Unfortunately, Cafe Borgata, which is rumoured to have excellent gelato, never seems to be open.

Also within striking distance are the variety of Asian, Eastern European, German, and Middle Eastern on Milwaukee and Waukegan. Plus, it's a straight shot down Devon for Indian, down Touhy or Dempster for Jewish deli, or down Harlem for more Italian.

I also like the fact that the neighborhood is clean and crime-free, due to the large number of cops, firemen and other city workers who live there, and the fact that you can actually send your children to the regular, non-magnet, public schools and feel confident that they will a) get an education, and b) be safe.

I do wish there was a good French bistro in the area, and a better grocery store than the Jewel or Dominicks, although I'm pleased that the local grocery, Happy Foods, stocks a decent selection of Irish foods, including fresh sausage and black and white pudding.

To be honest, the only places I find worthwhile on that NW Hwy. strip are Zia's and Don Juan. There are better bakeries/delis in the area, altho Tony's isn't bad. And I do enjoy the beer garden at Moretti's. Personally, I don't think there's a good bar for miles [especially since Mike's American Ale House changed].

You might want to check out Produce World at Lawrence & Cumberland some time. Not a perfect grocery store, but a better selection of produce than the usual suspects, and a nice selection of Italian/E. European/Greek deli items. Including Bobak products.

Giovanna

No good bar for miles? Oh Giovanna, Giovanna, Giovanna.... Just kidding--bars are a personal matter, and what I might like, you might find unappealing. Still, a few of my favorites, close by:

Fast Eddie McAteers, on Northwest Highway, just north, I think, of Nagle. In Norwood Park. Looks like a dump from the outside...actually, its kind of a dump on the inside too, but its a good bar. Good pints, good bartenders, my favorite in the neighborhood. Draws a large northern Irish clientele--kind of unusual for Chicago, where the majority of Irish are from the west--Mayo and Clare, mostly.

Vaughans, a little south of Fast Eddies. In Gladstone Park. Nicer than Fast Eddies, serves food--pretty good menu. I like it, but its not the most comfortable lay out--booths along the wall restrict the stand areas when crowded.

The Blarney Stone--mentioned in my previous post. New, small. Nothing aesthetically interesting, but, again, good pints, good bartenders.

I've never been to the Produce World at Lawrence & Cumberland, althought I regularly go the the one on Oakton and Waukegan (I think it's Oakton--maybe Dempster.) I concur with your findings re: the produce and European items.

john m wrote:The only situation I'm aware of where there was a fuss was in the late 1970s, when residents of neighborhoods north of Uptown (including Andesonville, Lakewood Balmoral, and St. Gertrudes), tired of the connotations that Uptown had (gangs, hillbilly bars, rampant drug addiction) raised enough of a stink to get a new community area designated, and called Edgwater.

"Hillbilly bars" reminds me: I haven't been to Carol's Pub in way too long. Has anyone eaten there? They advertise hot sandwiches, burgers, etc., but I can't remember ever seeing food served there, and for a brief time I was approaching being a regular.

Gold Coast, no question.

John M. -

If I was single (and still working in Crystal Lake), I would move to Edison Park in a minute. Great restaurants, plenty of shops within walking distance, and quick and easy access to both trains and the CTA.

I have already tired of all this rural living. Other than the horses next door that seem to active at 2am every morning, it is too darned quiet out here in Woodstock.

and fer sure not "Roscoe Village".

Don't be so sure. Roscoe Village has been known as that since at least 1988, when the neighborhood association's progenitor, the Melrose-Oakley Block Club, changed its name to Roscoe Village Neighbors. For more history on Roscoe Village, see http://www.roscoevillage.org/index.cfm?section=history.

Roscoe Village has been known as that since at least 1988

Indeed, the plaque at Western bearing the words "Roscoe Village" also has Mayor Bilandic's name on it. Which suggests that "Roscoe Village" has been around at least since the 70s.