GAF wrote:Tomorrow appears the photos and the narratives.
Tomorrow? Pfft. My ladylove may turn into a pumpkin at midnight, but I suffer no such affliction.
Given the hour, however, I'll stay light on the commentary for the time being. But here's a quick rundown of the menu for reference. I usually post smaller images with links so as to not abuse people, but I suspect the occasion calls for the full 600 pixels worth of width. If it's too much, just let me know and I'll replace with the standard click-to-enlarge variety.
Library of Martinis
Nothing special in way of the drinks, just a fun delivery system for an array of libations. In case it isn't clear from the photo, there are eight eyedroppers filled with various drinks on ice. You pick one up and squeeze the contents into your mouth. This wasn't part of the menu, but enough folks tried it that I opted to include it here.
The First Tease
The first dish to hit the table was a tease, as it was actually the third course. A frozen beet octahedron, inspired by Michelango's method of casting bronze, was left to slowly decay while we worked on the first few dishes.
The Menu
In typical Cantu fashion, edible, and affixed to a cracker, accompanied by a dipping sauce the nature of which I'm afraid I missed. Creamy and tasty.
BEET MAKI & miso
The first official course was the maki prepared for Iron Chef, containing rice, nori, a healthy dose of miso mayonnaise and golden beets, wrapped in edible paper printed with images of maki. It would make any Japanese traditionalist cringe (and even some non-traditionalists), but setting aside any preconceived notions of what maki should be, I enjoyed it a little more than I'd like to admit. It was exceptionally creamy and very sweet and had absolutely nothing to do with sushi bar simplicity and elegance, and I knew I was being bought, but... well... I could've pounded five or six of these, easy.
BEET with borscht
The second course was a two part dish. On the left, a sort of light, airy, frozen beet fluff. Very mild in flavor, more textural than anything. On the right, a really nicely spiced, intense warm beet borscht with chunks of beet and a tiny dollop of sour cream. I'm not sure what the left lent to the dish other than an opportunity to present something funky, but the borscht was really delicious. Was this on the IC episode? It's been too long since I watched it.
HOT & SOUR with beet juice
By this time, our octahedrons (is that the plural of octahedron?) had melted and collapsed into a slushy pile which, when mixed around a bit, created the third course, a slushy cold "hot and sour" soup with beet greens and bacon. I use quotation marks because, frankly, I don't see any connection to hot & sour soup other than the fact that they're both liquds in bowls that you eat with a spoon, but that said this was probably my favorite dish of the evening. Something about the beet and bacon, even in a cold context, worked beautifully. Fun and unique and really delicious. This was on the IC episode, except with the balloon-formed spheres instead of the octahedrons.
BEET, monkfish & raccoon
Though I was not present at the first LTH Moto dinner, I understand this was a
raccoon reprise, as it were. Working from the bottom to the top, first there were crispy toasted beet macaroni (something along the lines of Rice Krispies, but crunchier), a white cheddar sauce, a pile of tender strands of raccoon meat that had also been treated with beet, two pieces of battered and fried monkfish, and finally some white truffle powder. It had a certain snacky feel, almost upscale junkfood-ish. Definitely enjoyable, and I got to add a new critter to my list, which is always a bonus.
BLOODSHOT surf & turf
Another IC dish. Very simply prepared chunks of fish (the variety escapes me) and ribeye atop crispy rice noodles, upon which a beet and saffron jus is poured. Though tasty, I thought this one was a little
too simple. It helped that the fish and beef were a couple of perfectly prepared pieces of protein, but I thought the dish was missing a little oomph.
The Second Tease
Wahey, another octahedron! This time with a drizzle of something. Another tease to gently disintegrate while we work on desserts.
OAXACAN chocolate & citrus
A smudge of barely sweetened chocolate mousse, with a couple bits of beet and three accompanying squirts... lemon, lime and chocolate. All of the sweetness was in the eyedroppers, so both elements definitely needed to work in concert. It was a fun dish, and though I know the fellas over at Schwa are also working this combo right now, I'm still not sold on chocolate and beets as a pairing. I feel like they need something else to marry them... what that something is, I have no idea.
ORANGE & BEET with tasty pudding
The second dessert had a number of components, and my memory of the details is fuzzy so take the description with a grain of salt. Nearest the camera was an orange concoction that fell somewhere between custard and gelee in terms of consistency, but it was tart and tasty. Then you see some bits of golden beet, and more of the custard/gelee with a beet powder dusted packing peanut. Past that was a small pool of lime mascarpone that had been kicked up a touch with serrano, and finally a sesame chocolate pudding that was closer to a wet mousse in texture. Delicious across the board, especially the pudding that lived up to its name... the sesame flavor was full-on, and that was fine by me. My only complaint would be the packing peanut. I thought it was a fun idea, but not terribly enjoyable to eat past the novelty factor.
PYRAMID OF BEET, yogurt & yuzu
Where the first octahedron of beet melted away to reveal beet greens and bacon, the second octahedron of beet melted away to reveal... a sphere of beet! Also frozen, this inner beet geometry was yuzu-fied and maintained its icy texture while the outer octahedron melted around it to create the soup. Drizzled on top was the yogurt. It was really very nice and refreshing... a great finish. Though I couldn't help but feel we'd seen this presentation somewhere before.
All in all, an awful lot of fun and a great opportunity to have (most of) an Iron Chef menu. Great to meet everybody, many thanks to Gary for making the arrangements, and also to the Moto staff and Chef Cantu for being such enthusiastic hosts. Glad I was there. In parting, I'll leave you with one more shot, taken in the kitchen... notice anything special?
No peeking at the image name... that's cheating!!!
Dominic Armato
Dining Critic
The Arizona Republic and
azcentral.com