The other night at Hopleaf, we enjoyed a bottle of 3 Fonteinen Geueze. It was expensive ($25 for 750ml), but worth every cent. I have to say it was one of the finest Lambics I have ever tasted. I had sampled it before at a beer tasting (about 2oz of it), but this was the first time I had ever savored an entire bottle.
It is produced by the owner of the popular Drie Fonteinen Restaurant in Beersel, outside of Brussels. Apparently, he buys the finest Lambic he can find from various breweries around Belgium, and then ages them in Oak. He then blends 3 different Lambics (including his own brew) that have been aged for 1, 2 and 3 years respectively. The blended Geuze is then fermented one more time. The end result is not highly alcoholic (5-6% ABV), but complex and very delicious. He only bottles his concoctions when he thinks the results are worthy, usually every couple of years. The Geuze we had at Hopleaf was bottled in Feb 2004. However, I understand there is some from 2000 floating around that is even better.
The beer is very tart, in a green apple sort of way, with strong grapefruit and citrus overtones. However, it is not lip puckeringly, cheek achingly tart like some Belgian sour ales. It finishes with only a mild hint of the astringent hay qualities of many Lambics, a kiss of hops and a touch of minerality (is that a word?). Surprisingly, it is not terribly oakey tasting (although the flavor is definitely there). If it were wine, the flavor might be compared to a fruity Sauvignon Blanc or a tart Chardonnay. It has a fruity, slightly sour yet flowery aroma like lemon and peach blossoms, with just a whiff of wild yeast. The beverage is a bright orange color with a foamy effervescent head that quickly dissipates. The bubbles are very tiny and champagne like, but the carbonation is somewhat subdued. The flavor changes as the bottle breathes, losing some of its tartness and developing a bit of vanilla or caramel flavored esters towards the end. It pairs perfectly with Hopleaf's mussels cooked in ale-broth.
Anyhow, if you find yourself at Hopleaf, or anywhere else that serves this rare gem, and are wondering if it is worth the investment, my answer would be a strong affirmative. If you have never tried a Geuze before, it would be a wonderful introduction.
For the last couple of days, I have been searching in vain for a retail source for this wonderful beverage. So far, none of my usual resources have it currently available. I believe it is imported by Shelton Bros.(in MA) and distributed by Windy City. If anybody runs across it for sale anywhere, please give me a shout.
--dave
http://www.sheltonbrothers.com/
http://www.3fonteinen.be/index_e.htm
Last edited by
d4v3 on December 1st, 2006, 10:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.