Foraging (Shagbark) Hickory Nuts
I have made enemies of the forest squirrels …
As autumn falls, I find myself in a bit of a panic, trying to force in all the summer things I didn’t get a chance to do. Additionally, the change of seasons sparks something instinctual in my blood: the need to marshal and hoard resources in preparation for the coming harsh bleakness of winter. I want to reap the fields, stock the larder, fill the root cellar, hang sausages in the attic, knit an afghan, build a bomb shelter …
Careful readers know I spend quite a bit of time wandering our local forest preserves, oft with my trusty companion, B, at my side. Years ago I wrote about
Che-Che-Pin-Qua and the Fountain of Youth (and never completed). More recently, I contributed
ad nauseam to the
cicada thread. I find my walks in the woods therapeutic, I’m generally in the “now”, especially when I have my camera in hand, and I return to the urban jungle somewhat more refreshed and focused.
When B was younger, our talk on these walks was much of a fantastical nature. We carried sticks as swords and slayed all manner of dragons and such. A bridge we often crossed sheltered a mean troll who we eventually came to terms with. The troll had an imaginatively-named son, Trollee, who would sometimes come home with us for sleepovers, though always with his mom’s permission and he had to brush his teeth.
These days, our talks are of a much more philosophical nature. What it means to be human. Ethics and morality. How to protect our planet. These discussions are often open-ended, lacking concrete questions and answers. These are dialogs of intellect, struggles for meaning, and commitments to pursue elusive truths.
Other times we talk science and nature. Ichthyology. Astronomy. Chemistry. Biology. Invasive species. Trees. I carry the same tree identification book I used in sixth grade science, and B has her own.
Other times we talk history. Politics. War. The very stories of the dirt beneath our feet. Dinosaur fossils have yet to be discovered in Illinois, but it is doubtless that they lived here. Glaciers once plowed across the land. More immediate, various tribes of American Indians lived out their nomadic lives, well, right here, where we live.
Not just any Indians, but The Three Fires Nation, consisting of the Pottawatomie, Ottawa, and Ojibwa (Chippewa) tribes. Not far from my residence, just off the corner of Lawrence and East River Rd lies the grave of Che-Che-Pin-Qua* (Chief of the Pottawatomie, aka Alexander Robinson), a hero of the Dearborn massacre and witness to the Chicago Fire. He was friends with Billy Caldwell (Sauganash). It has become common to put a coin on his burial marker for good luck. While I have not won the lottery, I have a lot of great friends.
Alexander Robinson made most of his money marrying several woman (at the same time), trading, and negotiating treaties – a sign of the change in the culture since the invasion of the Europeans. But if he were a Pottawatomie 300 years ago, this time of year he would have been seeking, slaughtering, and salting the great American bison. And he would have been frantically gathering the bounty of the forests.
So while B and I were out “lost” in the woods, rescuing damsels, solving the world issues of the day, and concluding metaphysical conundrums, we saved the GPS locations of identified Hickory Trees. Most noticeably, the Shagbark Hickory
(Carya ovata).
Fortunately, one doesn’t really need a tree identification book to find a Shagbark Hickory (though one wouldn’t want to find a bitternut, or even worse, a mockernut). They look just like they sound, “shaggy.”
Unfortunately, hickory trees grow very tall (120’) and it is not so easy to reach up that high.
Starting September 1st, we returned to our saved locations. Here’s where the squirrels come in. You see, the squirrels are up in the canopy collecting the nuts, too. Many fall, and on the ground, me and the B gather. The squirrels notice and skitter in rage, raining even more nuts down like depth charges. We incite and encourage their anger.
Shagbark hickory nuts grow in sets of one to three. They have a tough outer husk that is green when fresh.
As the husk dries, it darkens, and separates geometrically into four pieces.
I suggest to B that we spy on the squirrels to see where they hide their nuts and steal their horde. B questions the ethics of this and wins the moral debate.
When we get home, I put the unhusked hickory nuts on a sheet pan. After several days in the gas oven, most are ready to be shelled.
After the husk has been removed, the nut is revealed, in a shell that is somewhat difficult, but not impossible to remove. The meat is quite delicious. B describes it aptly as, “starting like a walnut and finishing like a pecan.”
Now the Indians would not have bothered with all this work-intensive shelling, which is only good for nibbling. They would pound the nuts, shell and all, in a mortar and pestle like contraption, made out of a hollow tree trunk, some hide, and some hardwood. This nut-meal is then combined with water and boiled for several hours. The resulting "milk" is said to be tasty and quite nutritious.
We return to the woods every couple days to collect what has fallen anew. While the squirrels find continued offense, after the late summer rains, the mosquitoes are an even worse enemy. They are fierce – starved, crazed, bloody thirsty. Usually they sniff and disdain my anemic blood, but now they’re desperate, ravenous for progeny. We douse ourselves in foul smelling repellents to little avail. The welts swell and blister and itch to the point of madness. We fear West Nile and the Bubonic Plague, but the quest must be fulfilled.
Why risk the wrath of skeeters and squirrels? Hickory nuts are not available commercially (well you can buy some sometimes
here). A hickory tree must grow for 75 years before it even begins to produce fruit, and even then, they take a year off now and then. They are certainly delicious and nutritious.
Mrs Ramon questions my actions and sanity. I shout down her objections with vehemence. When the economy drops through the floor and our supply of plentiful and cheap food dries up, I will survive, and I may just share.
Thankfully, B agrees with me on this, or at least humors me. Here she demonstrates her nut breaking skills.
In this land of plenty, it is easy to forget the bounty that abounds around us. Eating local by definition.
BTW, B wishes you all a happy Halloween.
*It is reported that the Robinson Burial Ground is
haunted. A little further west is the forest preserve grove where the Peterson/Scheussler corpses were found. But these are not stories B knows, and I will not relate them here. Boo!
-ramon