I had a late lunch at Osteria di Tramonto last Saturday. At around 2ish, there were only about 4 tables taken in this rather largish space. Which means that we pretty much had the place to ourselves.
The wine list is novel-like in its thickness, although is strictly Italian, according to my recollection. This Osteria adheres to the soon-to-be-ubiquitous means of serving by the liter - quartino, mezzo, etc. I'm not complaining. The Insolia I had was delicious.
As soon as you sit down, you're given a plate of stellar bread, fruity, good quality olive oil and black olives. Sounds pedestrian, but it hit the spot.
To start, we split the arancini. The best version I've had of this munchie. The outside was very crisp, the rice chewy and the mozz creamy. It comes with a lovely tomato sauce with a spoonful of herbed goat cheese dolloped on top. The tomato sauce, although a condiment in this dish, was really nicely balanced. Just when you thought the sauce might be too sweet, a bit of acidity kicked in the end.
For lunch, we split a buffalo mozzarella pizza and what was termed as the "meatball salad." More on that later.
The pizza was generally Neapolitan in character. Thin crust in center with bubbly bready crust at the top. Nicely charred. The crust was about 1/8" thicker in the center than Spacca's. They weren't cheap, slightly more expensive than the Bufalina at Spacca. But for the price, the pizza was teeming with good quality, noticeably tangy buffalo mozzarella. It was topped more heavily than most other pizzas of this type, but not nearly as much as your average Chicago thin crust. This pizza was delicious. I'd place it a close second behind Spacca's.
As I perused the menu, the term "meatball salad" conjured up an image that lingers in my mind of a restaurant reviewed by Phil Vettel some years ago (I think it was Vettel), the name of which I cannot recall, where a rather pedestrian salad was served with tomato-sauce dressing. I remember the reviewer's reaction being something along the lines of, "what kind of a fiendish mind does this?" He hated it. I thought to myself, "Is Tramonto really serving a green salad topped with tomato sauce and two meatballs?
Really?"
Cackling to myself, thinking here's where a big name chef loses it, I ask the server, "Is this a green salad with tomato sauce and two meatballs on top?" The server looks at me like I'm crazy and says, "Ewww. Uh, no. It is a green salad with two meatballs with tomato sauce
on the side."
I was compelled to order it at that point. If you're like me and fear the salad dressing that is vinegar with a drop of oil, then you'll like this salad. Otherwise, it's just a normal salad. The meatballs came with more of that delicious tomato sauce. They were not the best. They were more oval in shape and oddly, one side of the oval was pretty dry, and the other side, moister, but not as moist as a good meatball should be IMHO.
The dinner entrees looked great- I'd love to try them but I don't know when I'll be in Wheeling for the dinner hour.
Service was friendly, although a little spotty- server would disappear for a block of time as I'm sitting with an empty glass and then reappear every 30 seconds for the next block of time. And, I might add, a tad condescending in one respect. I'm beginning to abhor the standard server comment when large wine lists are involved: "I know that wine list must be intimidating, so I'll leave you with that, but let me know if you need help." Did I
look intimidated? Did I try to hide under the table when you handed it to me? No, I just need a few extra minutes because
it's so damn big, not because I was looking through it, nervously wondering where the White Zinfandel is. But I digress.
A note on the Westin complex. It is Vegas-like, as noted before. In fact, it's kind of a trip (in the figuratively hallucinogenic sense, as well as in the travel sense). I can't believe this huge, flashy and monied of an operation is attached to a Westin in Wheeling. For example, the swanky bathroom for the Osteria is reached via a stairway behind a massive glass wall of wine. It's kind of fun, and reminded me that I'm too stressed lately, I deserve a mindless weekend in Vegas.