Vital Information wrote:The fresh vs. frozen (or how fresh is fresh fish) has been covered at various times. <snip>
So, that's a long way towards saying that I do not think the frozen-ness of Sonoragon is limiting factor. I've had fish pretty basic, fried, and relatively complex, as ground balls in curry, there, and I have generally been happy with the results.
Fresh vs. frozen is a big long topic I didn't mean to start on. Neither did I mean to imply that Sonargaon's fare is in any way compromised. I was just suggesting an alternative explanation (and to quell Zim's impression of "in your face mustard oil" use) Bengalis may not frequent Sonargaon (is this last phrase even true? I don't know).
I didn't really elaborate in my earlier post as this may be more appropriate in a more specific thread (
maybe this one on Sonargaon; please relocate if necessary).
Bengalis tend to enjoy freshwater (sweetwater) fish for the most part, unlike Malyalees/Keralites (from Kerala) who eat a lot more sea and backwater fish. Most of the freshwater fish are unavailable here; I don't know how these fish respond to freezing (and if it's different to sea fish). Properly frozen, and importantly, properly thawed fish can be very very good. Further let me add that some fish (or preparations) are better with frozen fish.
On Hilsa:
Hilsa or Ilish/Elish* as it is known to Bengalis (pronounced Ee (as in email) + leash (as in what city squirrels need to be put on)) is the most loved fish among the community (and I'm not one for superlatives); preparations with mustard paste,
Sorshe bata Ilish are especially popular. Hilsa, like Salmon, is a sea/river fish, in that it swims upriver to spawn. As I indicated earlier, it is 'in season' during the monsoons when it starts it jouney, although it is occasionally available at other times (but never as tasty). Frozen Hilsa is available here year round ("Chandipur Hilsa", Bangladesh origin) and in my experience can cook up very very well, but also turn out quite bad. This may depend on how long and/or how well the piece has been frozen (and thawed) and also if the fish has roe (the roe is very tasty but that fish is less so - and you can't tell in a frozen one if you getting a roe filled or roeless fish). I'd rather take a chance on fish that's possibly frozen not too long than frozen a long time and freezer burnt. As for what's available in a restaurant I can only hope they get better stuff than I do. It is, as I mentioned, this is right time for hilsa which hopefully hasn't been frozen too long.
On Fish Balls:
I'm assuming these 'fish balls' are the Chithol fish balls. (I know I saw 'Chitol' on the menu, I don't remember if the fish balls were Chitol).
Chithol maach-er muittha** is quite an unusual dish from an unusual fish. The flesh for these balls comes from the top of the fish, on either side of the dorsal fin, and running the length of the fish. This flesh is scraped off with a spoon or similar implement. It takes skill and practice to do this without getting any small bones or much wastage and is usually done by the fishmonger (or an assistant). This scraped fish 'paste' which is somewhat slimy is formed into fish balls with some starchy material mixed in (usually potato). When cooked, and this is the unusual part, this flesh becomes a little rubbery almost like plastic (like unchewed chewing gum though slightly softer) but still slightly translucentish - which is why I think the starch needs to be mixed in to make the balls. I have not come across any other fish protein that behaves like this, almost like egg whites. In fact, the rest of the fish is cut into steaks and behaves like 'normal' fish and is used in gravies/curries. Properly made these Chitol fishballs can be great - light, slightly chewy and spongy - excellenty suited for 'gravies'. In preparing these 'fish balls' it is better and easier to handle (less slimy) if the scraped flesh has been frozen for a bit. I don't know if premade fishballs are available frozen (I haven't looked) or if the fish itself is (Chitol is available year round). I think Chitol 'paste' is also sold.
So the frozenness of the fish is not an issue as far as Sonagaon is concerned. In fact, their listing some of these fish dishes on the menu is to some extent attractive. However, it is just odd (to me) to see
some way off season and I've resisted as I also would to say strawberries and cream or a cold beer in Winter.
Vital Information wrote: The owners and staff at Sonorogon are Muslim and their menu also makes several nods for general "Muslim-Indian" cooking (nehari, haleem, etc.). I wonder if that is an issue for non-Muslim Bengali's?
Bengali muslim cookery has produced some fantastic dishes including biriyanis, etc. These are quite different from other 'Indian' muslim versions - Hyderabadi or Lucknow or other styles . There are also some specific Bengali Muslim dishes such as rezalas (meat in lightly spiced yogurt based gravy with the spark of fresh green chilies) and variations like Dhakai (adjectival form of Dhaka, the capital city of Bangladesh) Porota (Paratha) which are superb on their own right. These would be available in restaurants that specialize in this sort of food and Bengali non-Muslims do take delight in this cuisine as well. On Devon however, the nuances of 'Bengali muslim' cookery may not be apparent and a restaurant serving only this would probably not survive.
In eating a (Bengali) meal however, it is hard/odd to mix dishes from cuisines, and unfortunately none of the vegetable dishes I noticed were really 'Bengali' (and one
has to have a vegetable dish first). IIRC, the vegetable dishes seemed quasiPunjabi and that's mainly what's kept me out. Also the nod to "Muslim-Indian" cooking may have have made it less distinguishable (on paper) for me.
That said, Sonargaon may have spectacular dishes (as some posts indicate).
zim wrote: sazerac, as I've mentioned before I like their bhartha quite a bit and find it a little different than most versions I've had (mainly punjabi) which have substantial tomato (which if you believe most of the older punjabi women I 've met, should be grated) component. Sonargaon's is simpler, more like the good smoky baba ganouj folks are looking for in that semaramis thread, and wondered if this is more a house preference or a regional preference.
The mentions of smoky baba ghanouj in that thread actually reminded me of the Bengali versions. One is bharta which is no doubt related to those from other parts of India, and the other is simply Begun Poda/Pora*** which translated is simply burnt/roasted brinjal. For both dishes, the eggplant is completely charred by placing directly on a gas flame (or on charcoal). The burnt skin is then removed by hand (obviously, so some burnt bits invariably get mixed in and gives the dish its roasted smoky flavor). Sometimes the two names (bharta and pora) are used interchangeably, since begun pora can get more complicated than some of the simple treatments (mustard oil, chopped onions, green chilies, cilantro; this and other spicing would depend on what else is being eaten).
I've always thought of bharta as starting with 'roasted' charred eggplant. Is the 'real' Punjabi and/or Kashmiri version different?
*Biological name: Hilsa ilisha
**Pronounced 'Chi' (as in Chimp) + 'th' (as in thing) + 'ol' (as in toll);
Hmm, I need to learn those pronounciation things, velar fricassees and the like
, so my expanations aren't so complicated
Maach = fish (Bengali) [Hindi: Machli; Tamil, Malyalam: Meen]. The 'er' after maach indicates it's an adjective.
Muittha (pronounced 'Mooit' + (stress)'Th' (as in Thomas) + 'a' (as in Ah)) in this context refers to the fishballs. I think the word derives from 'mutho' which means fist, as that's how they are formed, but I'm no food scholar or linguist.
***pronouunced "Bay" + "Goon". Bengali for eggplant (Baingan in Hindi)
Poda/Pora, pronounced "Po" (as in pour) + (r)d (as in card but very lightly sounded 'r') + a (as in Ah); it means roasted or burnt.