I Like Las Vegas

I like Las Vegas. I recognize that not everyone likes Las Vegas. Take the spendthrift. I see that. Yet after spending the big bucks hearing Danny Gans ape everyone from Peter Cetera of Chicago to Billie Holliday (he’s better at Billie, anything in the higher ranges he really nailed), is there anything better than this.





Chowhound extraordinaire Joe H once claimed that his first bite of a double-double animal style was as good as anything he’s eaten including various 3 star places. Now, I have zero experience eating at any of France’s best, but I do know there is something grippingly tasty about this burger. I attribute it to molecular gastronomy. Of course it’s fast food meat, fast food toppings, but the specific flavors here, the griddling in mustard, the soft bite of grilled onions, the icky chemicals in the secret sauce. Gosh, it hits the spot like few other things can, especially at around midnight, with the lights glowing in the distance. I’d say that the fries are not nearly as good as they can be—a bit on the pasty side—given their fresh slicing and genealogy (Maine Kennebec). Maybe next time I should dip back into the secret menu and order them crisp.

I like Las Vegas. I recognize that not everyone likes a buffet. Good buffet, tall midget, right? I recognize that some things don’t hold up very well on a buffet, nor can too much artisanship go into the feeding of 1,000’s each day. But I like buffets. I love to sample. Try. Dig into the over abundance of Las Vegas buffets. At top buffets, like the one we visited, at the Wynn, there are all sortsa fun things to eat regardless of any buffet faults. And value, I would say that both my wife and I more than ate our ticket in white anchovies, smoked trout, and large boiled shrimps. The teriyaki flank steak, leg of lamb, Kobe meatballs, ceviche, sausages, these things were not throwaways either, especially good were the salads, and I know we could have helped Steve Wynn’s bottom line just eating these. At the end, about 75% of the desserts worked, including tiny baba au rhums and cookies my wife called “the best ever.” The experience was really cemented by a post buffet visit to the sports bar, with big comfy chairs. They work hard to pour beer here (using a cocktail shaker to get rid of beer deemed to foamy).

I like Las Vegas. I like Las Vegas because it has attracted many (most?) of the top chefs in the USA to open outposts of their work. I recognize that some claim these are poor copies. Fluff. Catering to palates that seek style over substance. Well, let me say, I like style. Many of these restaurants have style in spades. Some like Alex Stratta’s namesake in the Wynn or Jean Georges Vongerichten’s Prime in the Bellagio are over the top luxurious in décor. Others like Michael Mina’s Strip Steak or Charlie Palmer’s Aureole both in Mandalay Bay are at least very snazzy. And food, I’ve had some clunker’s over the years including aforementioned Prime, and Palmer’s Steakhouse. Some times there’s style and good food.

I reported on a favorable meal last June at Craftsteak in the MGM Grand. I nearly duplicated that meal last week. In fact, I’d say the worst thing about my meal last week was that near duplication. Sure, I don’t mind eating Kobe beef tartare and Kobe rib eye again, hell I could eat those dishes once a week. What bugged me was the same mashed potatoes and the same asparagus (in December?!?) and the same molten chocolate cake. Nonetheless, except for some gritty scallops—Ms. VI accurately noted that this was exactly the kinda thing that would get Chef Tom’s ire on Top Chef—the meal was very well executed. It’s a dim room so I did not think pictures would work. We had besides the dishes mentioned, a high quality arugula salad, Kobe flat iron steak; assorted wild mushrooms, monkey bread with caramel dipping sauce, fresh strawberries and pineapple, two ice creams (candy cane and caramel) and two sorbets (pineapple and something).

I am impressed with Tom Colicchio’s Craftsteak. He’s trying. So is Todd English with his Olives. Granted, he does not have to do much with an outdoor café overlooking Bellagio’s big fake lake. On a pleasant afternoon, we ordered a ton of food.






I could quibble with things here and there. The chick peas needed about 10 more minutes in boiling water; the tomatoes served were rather inexcusable, the tuna could have been a bit better. What the hay, I was so mesmerized by the bread and tapenades I barely wanted to eat anything else anyways, really outstanding bread. There was so many other well conceived items, the combination of vinaigrette and grilled seafood more than made up for the tough beans; the lemon aioli went great with the average tuna, his olive oil potatoes were even better than the nigh before’s potato flavored butter at Craftsteak, and who the hell care about anything with that flatbread. The dessert was lemon crème brule with huckleberries, not so bad either. This was my favorite of a bunch of food eating.

More favorite than Craftsteak? I like to think that three big plates of Filipino food a few hours earlier did not limit my opinion. I mean I was pretty full mid-way through that dinner, but I looked at our snicky-snack at Goldilocks a few hours earlier as just another reason I like Las Vegas. Or as I told Dave Feldman the other day, you know you are a Chowhound when you preface your Kobe tasting menu with this:

(I cannot find my Goldilocks menu, so these are not perfect translations of what we had)

This is one of about five types of noodles offered; it’s a mix of egg noodles and cellophane noodles, with a heavy hand of garlic


I noticed the fried chicken on another table and had to try


Our waiter first hesitated when we ordered this, then was quite happy, it seems this is a very popular Filipino snack. I’d call it, “a dish not generally made for the squeamish.” It was, chopped pigs stuff, liver, spleen, who knows, crispy pig skin, and other things not identified. You shmear the egg over and also squirt some lemon. It was good, really good.


I like Las Vegas because it is a pretty interesting city outside the realm of the Strip. I think it’s no accident that it reminds me a bit of parts of LA. Surely folks like Steve Z have whetted my appetite for what's out there. We really wanted to explore some of “our” (e.g. LTH, e.g. GNR) kinda places during our stay. We fell into Goldilocks when we needed something else in the same strip mall (that’s strip with a small s). We had no idea what Goldilocks was, but it was bright, clean, and filled with Filipino families eating. It turns out that Goldilocks is something akin to the Hostess Cup Cake, the McDonalds and the Denny’s of the Philippines all rolled into one. But with good food, really good food. All the food was made to order, the things supposed to be crisp, crisp, the things soft, soft and the things gross, gross. There was lots of interesting looking baked goods, including many made with the purple ube root. I wished they served some of that in the restaurant. Still, curiosity took over and we had to try the above. I have to say, that Filipino food is one I know very little. Goldilocks has one outpost in Las Vegas but about ten or so in California. One in Chicago would be nice.

Probably the first place that would get a GNR if LTHForum opened a Vegas outlet would be Lotus of Siam. One of the best Thai restaurants in the USA is just one more reason why I like Las Vegas. The thing I and some others have wondered, is LOS better than what we have in Chicago, Spoon, TAC, etc.? The answer is yes and no. I think most of the menu is only “as good” as the best of Chicago favorites like Thai Avenues. Yet, in one way, LOS excels. They grill. Sure a lot of Thai places grill, or offer things like salads with grilled meats. No place in Chicago grills like LOS. With real charcoal, the grilled taste is exquisite against the Thai seasonings. This is not the greatest picture, but I think you get some idea about how good this dish is.

Grilled beef salad with Thai chilies and garlic


I like Las Vegas

Thanks for sharing. Loved your description of the Filipino dish with the egg, and the photos are great. Sounds like you and the Condiment Queen had a great trip.

Suzy

sdritz wrote:Thanks for sharing. Loved your description of the Filipino dish with the egg, and the photos are great. Sounds like you and the Condiment Queen had a great trip.

Suzy

Thanks Suzy.

I should note the address of Goldilocks, as I am pretty sure it's a new place for LTHForum readers.

2792 S. Maryland Parkway
Las Vegas
702-368-2253

Nice post, Rob. Next time I'm in Vegas, I'll add a stop at Goldilocks to my itinerary.

I really like Las Vegas for the food. Without some of the restaurants, I would probably fly up to Reno instead.

Having said that, the Strip and its cadre of celebrity chefs get a lot of attention at the expense of the many fine eateries that you find throughout the city. Do remember that Las Vegas is a city of close to 1.5 million, many of whom do NOT go to the Strip for dining and entertainment.

I will be in Las Vegas next month and am working up my list of eateries that I will be visiting. Most are off the Strip with meals under $20pp. And Goldilocks sounds like it is on the list.

VI, how do you rate Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House? It's not on the strip, it's on something called Paradise Road, but I have no idea where that is. (Who knows where anything is in Las Vegas? You get in a cab and tell him to take you there and he does, and then you get a cab back.) Anyway, I've always enjoyed my times there, it's an upscale place with all prime meat and they seem to know what to do with it, but I don't know if it's on a level with Craftsteak. I guess I'm really asking, if Craftsteak is a 10 in the world of Las Vegas steakhouses, is Del Frisco's an 8, or a 2?

jlawrence01 wrote:I really like Las Vegas for the food. Without some of the restaurants, I would probably fly up to Reno instead.

Having said that, the Strip and its cadre of celebrity chefs get a lot of attention at the expense of the many fine eateries that you find throughout the city. Do remember that Las Vegas is a city of close to 1.5 million, many of whom do NOT go to the Strip for dining and entertainment.

I will be in Las Vegas next month and am working up my list of eateries that I will be visiting. Most are off the Strip with meals under $20pp. And Goldilocks sounds like it is on the list.

I assume you've seen this.

I've never been to Del Frisco, so I cannot really comment on it. I think the aforementioned Joe H loves-loves the version in Orlando (I think), but not the rest. Don't quote me on that.

Michael Mina's Strip Steak looked really cool, and it had a good menu too (and it's garnered good reviews). It's, I believe, next on my list.

Paradise Road is the second major street east of the strip. It's where a lot of business hotels like Marriot are, and a fair amount of places like Del Frisco that cater to businessmen. It's not that far from the stip at all.

Still, here's one of the biggest things I learned last trip. Rent a car. We did it because we thought about going hiking. We never went hiking but the car was a great thing to have. Not the least, it was way cheap from Priceline, and then upgraded for only $10 to a convertable. Just like a trip to Lotus of Siam paid for the car, but the total flexibility, to run from Mandalay Bay, to the Mirage for a show, then to In n' Out, well you can see how it really paid for itself. Self parking gets a bit of a bad rap, but for the most part the walk to the hotel/casino was never very long. You might have heard, but valet's fine coming but a hassle/wait going.

Enjoy and report back.

i'm in Vegas right now myself, and I concur with VI: after two meals at LoS, it's quite excellent--but better than TAC? I don't see it. But the beef dish VI had and their sour sausage is indeed excellent.

To add: Delmonico's is a surprisingly good steakhouse, and Hash House a Go Go is a riot.

stevez wrote:I assume you've seen this.

Have it in my notes. When I head out for a week, I generally stuff a 1" binder full of travel information and maps. And my wife does the same .. and there is little overlap.

Personally, I do not see how anyone can go to Las Vegas WITHOUT a car if you really want to get around. Sure, I guess you can rely on the bus and walk 5-10 miles a day or ride the overpriced monorail ... but dong that when it is 105F out is not much of an option.

My last trip's find was the China Date Ranch which is actually located about 75 miles east in Tecopa Hot Springs, CA. The place raises about 30 variety of dates, has a pretty good bakery and some great hiking opportunities. Not recommended if there is wet weather.

jlawrence01 wrote:Personally, I do not see how anyone can go to Las Vegas WITHOUT a car if you really want to get around.

I used to dislike Vegas with a passion until I started to include a rental car in my plans. Now it's one of my favorite places to go (in small doses) thanks to the freedom to escape The Strip.

P.S. That date farm sounds very interesting for my next trip!

There are two Las Vegas-es - the glitzy Strip and Fremont strip areas that is epitomized by the "What happens in Vegas Stays in Vegas" ad campaign and the largely conservative (or more properly libertarian) city that has grown around the Strip to service it. There are more interesting people and experiences in the city ... BUT you have to search them out.

Personally, I have enjoyed Nevada immensely since discovering Deke Castleman's book - The Nevada Handbook (Moon Guide) of which Las Vegas is a small chapter.

Our January trip consists of a lot of unusual things - hiking around the date ranch, attending the "World of Concrete" show, and hiking the Kelso Dunes out on the Mojave Desert NP and a few other weird things. And maybe fifteen meals or so.

Rob's account of his first meal at Craftsteak Las Vegas and at Bouchon Las Vegas from June 2006 is an LTH classic, an astonishing slice of culinary literature. It deserves a link on this thread.

Craftsteak and Bouchon Las Vegas

Vital Information wrote: I mean I was pretty full mid-way through that dinner, but I looked at our snicky-snack at Goldilocks a few hours earlier as just another reason I like Las Vegas.

VI, I thought I was the only person on the planet who used the word "snicky snack." I loved your report, and thank you for making me laugh out loud. I can only hope my honeymoon in Vegas this coming November provides a fraction of the good reports you shared here! Thanks so much.

Here are my observations from nine days in Las Vegas and 100 mile radius:

Positives:

1) Aladdin Buffet -

It is back in a new location and for teh most part, the food is pretty good. The menu is wide and pretty much the same as before. It is NOT super creative but what they do, they do very well. Excellent lamb kabobs and tandoori chicken. Attentive service.

2) Inka Torero -

A number of the restaurants that I have enjoyed have actually closed and moved to different neighborhoods. Inka Si Senor moved from the east side on Maryland Ave. to the West side on Buffalo Dr. The food is really outstanding but there were only three customers at 7:30 pm on a Tuesday. The customers have not located the new place. The food is great.

3) M&M Mississippi Cafe -

The last time that I was in Las Vegas, I stopped at Big Mama's. Several of the patrons raved about the food at M&M Soul Food, And they had a lot that was worth raving about. Great fried catfish and a variety of sides that would match anything in the south.

I think that the soul food in Las Vegas is as good as anything that I have had in the south but all three places I have tried are 2-3x more than down saouth.

4) Big Bear Cafe, Bullhead City, AZ

BHC and Laughlin do not have the best food. We stopped at Big Bear as we have seen them over the mountain west and they are crowded ALL the time in every location. We split a tri-tip salad and a club sandwich. Well prepared food. Our server was very attentive. We were sitting at the counter as there was a 10 minute wait for a table at 2 pm. The employees were in a rush and having an absolute BLAST. And the teamwork was incredible. An absolute marvelous blackberry cobbler.

5) Hash House a Go-Go

Place reminded me of the old Lost in Space episode where aliens create an old fashioned town based on Dr. Smith's dream on an All-American town. Since he hated flies, teh flies in the created town were huge.

HH is similar. It looks like a Californian perception of an Indiana country restaurant. The atmosphere was really bizarre but the food was excellently done and well conceived. But egads, who needs a pancake that is 4 square feet.

The plates are so heavy that I twisted my wrist picking it up. And my waiter told me that the dinner plates were larger.

6) Mr. Lucky's at the Hard Rock Casino

For $7.77, there is an unadvertised steak and shrimp dinner with mashed potatoes and a great salad. The steak was not very tender or flavorable. The rest of the food was excellent, the service great, and the atmosphere very interesting.

7) Ellis Island

Whoever runs this place is one of the best business person around. Great and inexpensive food that draws in locals AND specials that are geared to the THOUSANDS of casino employees that work within a mile. At a time when Strip prices are ungodly, the place serves very good food at cheap prices. They even make up their own croutons from scratch.


Disappointments:

1) Orleans Buffet

I have recommended the place as a cheap alternative to some of the buffets on the Strip. We were there on a Monday night, their busy night, and the buffet was largely unattended and looked very tired. Service was inattentive.

2) South Point Oyster Bar

Great atmosphere but the food was pretty average. Some of the poorest calamari that I have seen.

3) Lotus of Siam

The northern pork stew was excellent and reminded me very much of chili adovada that I had in Albuquerque. That was the only high point of the meal. The Issan sausage - one of the sausage was well prepared, the other was completely dried out. The fried catfish is sweet and sour sausage was well, a mess. The meat was hard to get off the bones and I would be surprised if I was able to get 6 oz of meat off of a large fish ,,, not much value for a $27 meal.

I am 0 for two.


A few points:

1) I cannot eat three meals a day. There are a dozen places that I wanted to try and couldn't make it.

2) I could drive a taxi in Las Vegas as I know the city pretty well. However, the traffic is getting as bad as Los Angeles. Some of our selections were motivated by location more than quality.

3) Many restaurants are moving west from the downtown and eastern parts of town.

4) Our principal purpose of the trip was to hike the Mojave Desert, the China Date Ranch near Tecopa Springs and the Red Rock Canyon.