Rick Bayless: My Personal Food God

Rick Bayless: My Personal Food God

In The Nasty Bits, Tony Bourdain writes “The Famous Chef has no obligation to you, or anyone else, to be present in the restaurant. And you should not expect him or her to be.”

The rationale for this sweeping and somewhat hostile generalization is that Famous Chefs (Emeril, Mario, et al.) have done their time at the hot table. Now, with television shows to appear upon and books to write, these culinary deities just don’t have the space and time to actually incarnate themselves in their restaurants…and, incidentally, go immaculately conceive with yourself for even suggesting they should.

My respect for Rick Bayless is a matter of record. He’s got television shows and he’s got books, but another thing (among many) that I admire about him is that he frequently makes visitations to his restaurants. Now, he doesn’t command an eating empire as vast as those of Legasse or Batali, but he’s there, and even if he’s not hand shaping every tortilla, he’s keeping an eye on things, and that is an admirable -- and very rare! -- trait in a celebrity restaurateur.

People tend to find his personality grating, or grandiose, and maybe it is, but I like him for some of the same reasons I like Rachel Ray: he’s a popularizer, an enthusiastic explainer, he loves what he’s doing and it shows. Because of him, many folks who would never step into a Yucatecan cantina have enjoyed cochinita pibil, and many who disdain chili rellenos as soggy cheese sacks have been turned around by his transcendent renditions.

I’m not a regular at either of his places, but I have returned to both in 2006, and I think it’s salubrious for those of us who admire Mexican food to recalibrate the sensibilities now and again with some of the finest high-end preparations of this indigenous cuisine. (That’s another thing I like about the Bayless approach: the paradox of taking what is essentially a peasant food and amping it up without losing the soul of the stuff).

Hammond

I didn't know anyone had ever had anything unkind to say about Bayless's personality. Of course, my only exposure is seeing his TV show and a couple of times seeing him being interviewed at Green City Market. (I've seen him at his restaurant a couple of times, but didn't see any aspects of his personality, other than the fact that he seemed pleased to see his wife when she came in.) But I've always thought his enthusiasm was hugely entertaining, and he always made me want to visit new places and try new foods (and hope to become famous enough that I got invited to one of those backyard barbecues that you sometimes see on his show).

I like Bayless's restaurant (only eaten at Topolobampo, actually, but eaten there a few times), his cookbooks, his TV show, and his website: http://www.fronterakitchens.com/ Besides, I'll always love him for the fact that, early on, his website featured an article about his battle with his weight and how he learned to eat well and still remain trim. I haven't figured out yet how to do that myself, but I loved the fact that he included that kind of personal detail.

And his food is darn tasty, too.

I will also always have a soft spot in my heart because of the reason he gave for moving to Chicago from LA to open a Mexican restaurant -- the folks in LA thought they knew everything about Mexican food, Chicagoans were open to new stuff. Obviously a very perseptive man.

Also, don't want to forget his work in the whole sustainable food arena, from supporting Green City Market and Slow Food to his Frontera Farmers' Foundation, which helps support smaller farms. Even if you don't buy into the whole sustainability thing (I think it's a rather good idea, but not everyone agrees), it's always nice to encounter someone who does something to promote what he feels is write -- putting his money where his mouth is, as it were.

Cynthia wrote:I didn't know anyone had every had anything unkind to say about Bayless's personality. Of course, my only exposure is seeing his TV show and a couple of times seeing him being interviewed at Green City Market. (I've seen him at his restaurant a couple of times, but didn't see any aspects of his personality, other than the fact that he seemed pleased to see his wife when she came in.) But I've always thought his enthusiasm was hugely entertaining, and he always made me want to visit new places and try new foods (and hope to become famous enough that I got invited to one of those backyard barbecues that you sometimes see on his show).

Agreed. The man dresses and acts like a sixth grade teacher, not James Lipton! I've never had the financial wherewithal to dine at one of his establishments but I've always found his show pretty informative and extremely "accessible" for someone completely new to culinary history and culture like myself.

David,

"God" is a little too far for me, but he's definitely one of my culinary idols. Besides the reasons you mentioned, I have a few points that I'd add:

--His unbridled enthusiasm for Mexican cuisine, from street food to haute cuisine, is infectious and genuine.

--Like one of my other culinary idols, Jacques Pepin, he understands the home cook. He identifies reasonable ingredient substitutions, but is clear when they're not appropriate. He encourages experimentation and does not fuss over exact quantities. Like Julia Child, he doesn't put forth the feeling that his accomplishments and research separate him from the rest of us. He's got a "you can do this, too" attitude, which is important.

I've been happy to see him in his restaurant more than once and, while I am not an autograph hound, I prize my copy of a Topo tasting menu that he autographed for me on the spot a couple years ago.

Buen Provecho,
Michael

I'm very fond of Mexican Everyday and Mexican Kitchen, less so of Salsas that Cook.

I've seen him on TV, and I don't care to do that again -- he's just got a voice I find grating. What he's saying is just fine, but he could use a voice coach (if he's gotten one in the last few years, perhaps I should try again).

I've been to Topo/Frontera three times and not seen him there, so I've got no direct interaction.

But yes, a food god, one of the more important contributors to American eating. I mean, seriously, what has Bobby Flay added to our exeperience? Quail eggs on everything, so far as I can tell from Iron Chef America.

David Hammond wrote:
The rationale for this sweeping and somewhat hostile generalization is that Famous Chefs (Emeril, Mario, et al.) have done their time at the hot table. Now, with television shows to appear upon and books to write, these culinary deities just don’t have the space and time to actually incarnate themselves in their restaurants…and, incidentally, go immaculately conceive with yourself for even suggesting they should.

Hammond

Exhibit A.

johnny wrote:

David Hammond wrote:
The rationale for this sweeping and somewhat hostile generalization is that Famous Chefs (Emeril, Mario, et al.) have done their time at the hot table. Now, with television shows to appear upon and books to write, these culinary deities just don’t have the space and time to actually incarnate themselves in their restaurants…and, incidentally, go immaculately conceive with yourself for even suggesting they should.

Hammond

Exhibit A.

Appetizer party-tizers! A Blooming Onion! Where's he come up with this stuff!?

I'm not sure how you can wish that Rocco Dispirito would go away in light of the fact that, in my opinion, he never arrived. unless you count that poorly rated reality television program in which he quite accurately portrayed himself in an a role as a brooding, immature egomaniac whose cooking never came close to meeting the expectations created by Rocco's self promoted media hype as an arrival.

YourPalWill wrote:I'm not sure how you can wish that Rocco Dispirito would go away in light of the fact that, in my opinion, he never arrived. unless you count that poorly rated reality television program in which he quite accurately portrayed himself in an a role as a brooding, immature egomaniac whose cooking never came close to meeting the expectations created by Rocco's self promoted media hype as an arrival.

Not that I ever ate there, but Rocco's Union Pacific was VERY well regarded. What's especially interesting about the Rocco fable is that he gave up so much by appearing on the TV show (or showing his true self depending on how you see/know him).

Regarding Bayless, I tend to agree with the thoughts of of EC and DH above, but as I have written before, I'm also often irritated with Frontera (never been to Toplo).

I was there last this summer with a noted Chicago food blogger Paul (Kipblog, the keeper of all links) and another food blogger. We all enjoyed the food, but as usual there were, well, things. Of course there is the wait and the discomfort of the waiting areas; the service is awkward and not as polished as the food; the tortillas cannot match say La Quebrada (why?), and I hate all the various upcharges. At the end, I am left with the impression I am eating for Rick Bayless instead of him cooking for me.

That said, I think it's OK to have meals like that every once in a while. I can remember JustJoan cooking a Marseille inspired dinner or eating a weird off-menu fete at Cafe Salamera. These were also meals for them, for the people setting them up. Every once in a while it pays to do it. You learn something. Your palate grows and expands. Pleasure might take second place, not that these meals were bad, but they are about more than just good food. So, that's the way I look at Frontera. It's not my go-to place, nor a place I want to eat at often, but it is a place I want to eat at.

David Hammond wrote:In The Nasty Bits, Tony Bourdain writes “The Famous Chef has no obligation to you, or anyone else, to be present in the restaurant. And you should not expect him or her to be.” Hammond

As a side note, does Bourdain discuss his relationship with Les Halles in that essay? I'd look it up, but I gave my copy of the book away. Maybe it's not applicable because he didn't found Les Halles and I don't know, maybe no one ever went in there expecting to see him.

I like Bourdain's writing and in person he comes across as a very nice man, but some of the essays in The Nasty Bits bugged me.

bibi rose wrote:

David Hammond wrote:In The Nasty Bits, Tony Bourdain writes “The Famous Chef has no obligation to you, or anyone else, to be present in the restaurant. And you should not expect him or her to be.” Hammond

As a side note, does Bourdain discuss his relationship with Les Halles in that essay? I'd look it up, but I gave my copy of the book away. Maybe it's not applicable because he didn't found Les Halles and I don't know, maybe no one ever went in there expecting to see him.

I like Bourdain's writing and in person he comes across as a very nice man, but some of the essays in The Nasty Bits bugged me.

He is (perhaps strangely) silent on his position as executive chef at Les Halles. About his own celebrity chefdom, he writes, "If I had to go back to the kitchen now...it would break me. This vida loca better last -- or I'm fucked."

I must admit, though, that this book turned me around regarding Bourdain. I thought he was a paper tiger, kind of a culturally insensitive boor, but now I pretty much admire him.

I've never consciously begun to construct a culinary pantheon--which is, in and of itself a fascinating idea--but I suspect that if and when I get around to it, Bayless won't be there. That said, I have enormous respect for him, mostly for the reasons already mentioned here: his infectious enthusiasm, his knowledge, and his eagerness (and willingness and ability) to communicate all of the above.

The only other point I wanted to make is that on, I think, every single visit I have ever made to Frontera Grill, he has been in the kitchen. Every single time. Not canoodling, rarely schmoozing, never there "to be seen." Always working. Every single time. That impresses the hell out of me.

Indeed, as part of the ongoing series of introducing the Lovely Dining Companion to great Chicago restaurants, we'll be going to Topolobampo for our anniversary in a couple weeks. It's been ages for me and I'm quite looking forward to it.

David Hammond wrote:I must admit, though, that this book turned me around regarding Bourdain. I thought he was a paper tiger, kind of a culturally insensitive boor, but now I pretty much admire him.

It's funny-- I have the opposite feeling. I liked all his books (except for the mysteries) until I got to The Nasty Bits. It wasn't terribly disappointing, just kind of an uneven collection, except for a couple of pieces that I thought were really mean and not very funny, like the one about fat people. He does comment in the notes that it's mean but he doesn't seem to care.

In general though I think his writing is great. I like his current TV show too (never got a chance to see the earlier ones).

bibi rose wrote:It's funny-- I have the opposite feeling. I liked all his books (except for the mysteries) until I got to The Nasty Bits. It wasn't terribly disappointing, just kind of an uneven collection, except for a couple of pieces that I thought were really mean and not very funny, like the one about fat people. He does comment in the notes that it's mean but he doesn't seem to care.

Though I'm as heavy as I've ever been, the "fat people" comment went right by me. I do agree, though, that Bourdain is a kind of unapologetic realist; I think being a former heroin addict may do that to a person.

HI,

Rick Bayless and his daughter Lanie interviewed on Spatulatta

Chicago Treasures: Rick Bayless & Rafael Pulido with Steve Edwards, scroll down halfway to find the streaming audio of this program. Toward the end, I ask a question on the influence of Jan Longone.

Regards,

The Chicago Treasures interview was great. Bayless is certainly well-spoken, and I loved hearing him talk about both his family background and his love of sharing culture through food. Thanks, Cathy2.

David Hammond wrote: He is (perhaps strangely) silent on his position as executive chef at Les Halles. About his own celebrity chefdom, he writes, "If I had to go back to the kitchen now...it would break me. This vida loca better last -- or I'm fucked."

Bourdain's carefree life of intensive traveling & eating around the world may be about to change, as it is reported that his girlfriend is pregnant.

http://www.finelifesonoma.com/FL-2006/FL-120706/FL-Kathleen-120706.htm

Artemesia wrote:

David Hammond wrote: Bourdain's carefree life of intensive traveling & eating around the world may be about to change, as it is reported that his girlfriend is pregnant.http://www.finelifesonoma.com/FL-2006/FL-120706/FL-Kathleen-120706.htm

Artemesia,

The book mentioned in your link, Culinary Educations from the World’s Greatest Chefs, sounds well worth reading.

It's interesting that the author clearly indicates that Bourdain's antipathy toward Rachel Ray is fueled by envy. I suspect he is not the only one so motivated.

Hammond

I was able to enjoy their holiday party last month and didn't have much interaction with him. But, he greeted everybody that came in and made small conversation with people. I couldn't afford to eat at either one of his restaurants currently. But, have always watched his show when I am able to catch them. The food that was prepared that not wasn't anything from their menu or South American cuisine. It was Southern African from what I was told. None the less it was good. But, my high expectations of eating South American was not met that night. But, I had an enjoyable dining experience with the wait and kitchen staff, Rick Bayless and company. I will have to dine there when I have the funds to.

Bourdain's carefree life of intensive traveling & eating around the world may be about to change, as it is reported that his girlfriend is pregnant.

http://www.finelifesonoma.com/FL-2006/F ... 120706.htm

Egad. That is one godawful piece of writing!

sundevilpeg wrote:

Bourdain's carefree life of intensive traveling & eating around the world may be about to change, as it is reported that his girlfriend is pregnant.

http://www.finelifesonoma.com/FL-2006/F ... 120706.htm

Egad. That is one godawful piece of writing!

No kidding-- surely they can do better than that.

I'm a great admirer of what Rick Bayless has done at Frontera. He's kept the kitchen up to a consistently high standard for an awfully long time. He must feel like Ulysses tied to the mast with the endless tourist parade marching through the doors. He's had to make compromises with bum-rushing people through multiple seatings, but the quality of the food has always been impeccable.

IMO he and Gordon Sinclair are the mainly drivers behind Chicago's development into a great global restaurant city. Before them you had steak houses and a few haute cuisine temples and that was pretty much it. They educated a lot of palates, and popularized the adventurous dining we now take for granted.

Fast Eddie wrote:I'm a great admirer of what Rick Bayless has done at Frontera. He's kept the kitchen up to a consistently high standard for an awfully long time. He must feel like Ulysses tied to the mast with the endless tourist parade marching through the doors. He's had to make compromises with bum-rushing people through multiple seatings, but the quality of the food has always been impeccable.

IMO he and Gordon Sinclair are the mainly drivers behind Chicago's development into a great global restaurant city. Before them you had steak houses and a few haute cuisine temples and that was pretty much it. They educated a lot of palates, and popularized the adventurous dining we now take for granted.

Gordon Sinclair was definitely a force, but I would put a guy named Charlie Trotter ahead of both Sinclair and Bayless.

Gordon's was a great place, but Charlie Trotter was the first place that really ranked with the best places in the world.

Charlie Trotter's or Taillevant? For a lot of us, it was incredible that Chicago's Trotter would be superior in almost every way to the great Paris Michelin three star places. I would take a Charlie Trotter's meal over a Taillevent meal any day.

Funny you said that, as soon as I hit submit I thought, "Damn, should have put Charlie Trotter in there too".

Would be interesting to see a geneaology of all those who graduated from those three kitchens who went on to open other restaurants.

Fast Eddie wrote:Would be interesting to see a geneaology of all those who graduated from those three kitchens who went on to open other restaurants.

It sure would. I have to believe such such a genealogical table exists, though I've never seen it.

Maybe he doesn't count because he was in the suburbs, but Jean Banchet is generally considered to be among the country's most influential chefs, drawing attention to Chicago as far back as the 1970s. And there are a fair number of top chefs out there who started in his kitchen, as well.

Fast Eddie wrote:Would be interesting to see a geneaology of all those who graduated from those three kitchens who went on to open other restaurants.

Not sure if this is exactly what you had in mind, but thought I should link it anyway...

http://www.chicagoreader.com/pdf/060414 ... y_tree.pdf

LionRock wrote:

Fast Eddie wrote:Would be interesting to see a geneaology of all those who graduated from those three kitchens who went on to open other restaurants.

Not sure if this is exactly what you had in mind, but thought I should link it anyway...

http://www.chicagoreader.com/pdf/060414 ... y_tree.pdf

Completely fascinating.
I had no idea that Homaru Cantu is a Charlie Trotter's alum. I considered them polar opposites.

Another note (and not to nitpick): I thought Roland Liccioni was best known for his years at Les Nomades, and I thought Arun was best known for Arun's. I don't think that Banchet gets quite enough credit whent the only reference to those two offspring is Le Lan, which is a great place, but definitely not Les Nomades under Roland or Arun in its day.

LionRock wrote:

Fast Eddie wrote:Would be interesting to see a geneaology of all those who graduated from those three kitchens who went on to open other restaurants.

Not sure if this is exactly what you had in mind, but thought I should link it anyway...

http://www.chicagoreader.com/pdf/060414 ... y_tree.pdf

Thanks lionrock. I knew I had seen it somewhere before

Gordon's was a great place, but Charlie Trotter was the first place that really ranked with the best places in the world.

Esquire ran an article in the late 70s asking "Is the best restaurant in America in Wheeling, Illinois?" Of course they made Le Francais sound like it was in a cornfield rather than in a wealthy suburb-- this is around the same time that a movie was made about the second-wealthiest zip code in America, and titled "Ordinary People"-- but even so, it's clear from something like that that Banchet and Le Francais had put fine Chicago (area) dining on the map in many minds. (I think Louis Szathmary would count as an earlier nationally-known celebrity chef, but that was more him personally than his restaurant.)