A five day chow-centric NYC trip. Just text, no pictures. Time constraints and extreme cold precluded taking the El out to Queens so we didn't get to Sripraphai or Flushing Chinatown or my favorite Peruvian ceviche place La Pollada Laura near LGA.
Smoked FishBarney Greengrass and Russ Daughters.
Barney Greengrass is a legacy place on the upper west side, on Amsterdam between 86th and 87th. Unlike most legacy places, it continues to deliver--exc whitefish, very good belly lox, babka, fresh oj, awesome diner urn drip coffee, something that's almost impossible to find anymore. The Eastern European Jewish heart attack standards are all there, but we go for the smoked fish.
Russ Daughters.
Here's the thing: You're walking east on Houston St, past 1st Ave, and in quick succession you hit Yonah Schimmel's Knishes, Russ Daughters (an Appetizing Store--no seats), and one block on--Katz's. I challenge even Gwiv and Cathy2 and Rob to manage this gauntlet.
Russ Daughters' is an 'appetizing shop', of a kind that was once in every nyc Jewish neighborhood. Smoked fish and other groceries, delicacies and prepared foods and salads.
Russ Daughters' belly lox was better than Barney Greengrass. Not just a little better--but orders of magnitude better. On a scale of absolutes, IMHO Russ Daughters' belly lox is a greater imperative than pastrami. The sable was ethereal, too.
Babka-a thonBabka samples were collected from Zabar's (80th & Broadway) baked by Green's, Russ Daughters', and Barney Greengrass. Samples were bagged, tagged and schlepped to our current stop--Durham. Study still under way.
Yonah Schimmel's KnishesLast time I had a Yonah Schimmel knish was about ten years ago. It was so bad I tossed it after one bite. This visit, we walked by about lunchtime and picked up a kasha knish and a potato knish to eat with Russ Daughers' smoked fish and bagels back at the hotel. Both were exemplary. Conclusion: treat Yonah Schimmel's like other ethnic eateries--when its busy its good, otherwise, pass it by.
FalafelI've been trying to get to Azuri Cafe on 51st just east of Tenth Ave for several years. The guy who runs this postage stamp of place is an intense Alan Arkin like character portraying the soup nazi. The whole fifteen seat place, the proprietor and his two employees are models of machine-like precision - all reflected in the carefully prepared food. The flat out best Israeli style falafel: moist parsley infused flat patties cooked to order. Exc harissa-hot sauce, pickles, baba ganoush, hummes, chicken schwarma, home made pita--about a quarter inch thick and yeasty. Azuri won the prize, its the one place we went to twice. Closed Fri night and Sat.
Pizza
Tried once, half-heartedly. Angelo's on 57th just west of 6th Ave. Ok coal oven pie. Wouldn't seek it out again, wouldn't turn it away on a cold night.
Chocolate
Kee's and Jacques Torres. These two places are each two blocks from the Spring St subway station, but in opposite directions.
As I understand it, the woman at Kee's used to work for Jacques Torres. $10 for six truffles--the Katsu of chocolate. Thai chili and coffee truffles are extraordinary. Worth every penny. An absolute imperative. Daily production is small, nay miniscule. Get there early or call ahead to reserve.
Hot chocolate flavored with ancho chile from Jacques Torres. Superb. Rich beyond belief. Chocolate covered apricots spiced with ginger are, if possible, not sweet. Passed on the truffles, since we had stocked up at Kee's.
Cheese
Di Paulo's on Grand east of Mulberry.
Another legacy place, stuffed with cheese, homemade ravioli, mozzarella, and salumi. An exc parmesan reggiano at $11.99/lb. Spicy soprassata wasn't so good--didn't try for it.
Italian
There are three kinds of restaurants in nyc: Italian, Italian and Italian. Or so it seems. We hit two : Lupa and Il Menestrello.
Lupa, on Thompson north of Houston, is very reasonable for what you get. The imported proscuitto, IMHO, puts most brisket to shame in terms of cured meat nirvana. The house cured salumi is not too shabby either. The fish antipasti--octopus, sardines, cod were almost as good. Semolina flan was essence of macaroni and cheese goodness. A deep deep wine list with tons of good bottles 25-35. House pastas must not be missed. From the menu, especially enjoyed the spicy tuna with linguine. Six of us feasted (capital FFF) , three courses, no dessert for $60 each with two bottles of wine and tip.
Day of departure lunch at Il Menestrello. I am glad to report that rumors of its chow demise are ill-founded. Large martinis's, a couple of glasses of blood red Morellini. Roast peppers with anchovies typify why I am so fond of this place--a request for garlic resulted in a sprinkling of precise thinness garlic slices across the plate. Veal Milanese was exemplary, as was linguine with white clam sauce and whole clams. Ricotta torte is a classic. Best strategy here is to stick with the main stream items of the NYC Italian culinary lexicon and pass by the trendy stuff.
High End
LCB Brasserie and Picholine.
With the weather so cold, I had to have some cassoulet. Research suggested that La Cote Basque was the place to get it. Unfortunately, La Cote Basque closed early last year. The good news is that it reopened as LCB Brasserie with the same kitchen staff, captains and waiters. The $39 pre-theater prix fixe is the way to go. Exc mixed green salad vinaigrette garnished with shaved parmesan, a dab of exc bleu cheese and walnuts (did not eat the nuts). Cassoulet as promised--very good duck confit, garlicy sausage, that salami like lyonnais sausage. Forgettable cheese course. Exc rasberry sorbet. Incredible wine list, super values in Burgundy if you have $2-300 to spend (we did not). But a split of third growth '99 Chateau Clairemont Margaux at $40 was a good value. Wife's grilled dover sole ($15 supplement) was fresh, moist plated in the kitchen. Would return in a heartbeat--I love this cuisine.
Picholine for dessert and cheese. My wife was dressed to the nines for our night at Carnegie Hall and deserved someplace nice. Cheese course you pick in consultation with a cheese sommelier from a cart that smells more intense than the perfume counter at Nordstrom's around Valentine's day. Star was a Spanish Mijon. Bill was outrageous. Would return only for the cheese.
Coffee Shop Breakfast
Astro Coffee Shop on NW corner 55th and 6th. A first rank Greek coffee shop, the kind of place where the second day you get a nice smile and the third day you're a regular. Highly recommended. Especially the home fries, country sausage, pancakes, Greek yogurt, heck--just a great breakfast all around.
Various
Poseidon Bakery. All pastries with their home made phyllo and kourambiedes greek wedding cookies.
Grand Sichuan 9th Ave, 50th/51st location. Numerous postings on that other board: greatness not exaggerated. Dan dan noodles, sichuan wonton in chili oil, heck, all of it.
Il Menestrello 52nd just west of Madison
Poseidon Bakery 45th and 9th.
Grand Sichuan 745 9th Ave, 50th/51st 212-582-2288.
Barney Greengrass, 541 Amsterdam Ave 212-724-4707 between 86th and 87th
Picholine 35 W 64th St:(212) 724-8585.
Azuri Cafe- 51st just east of 10th ave 212-262-2920
Brasserie LCB 60 W 55th St bet 5th / 6th 212-688-6525
Astro Diner 101 W 55th, 55th and 6th
Lupa 170 Thompson Street between Houston St. and Bleecker St. (212) 982-5089
Russ Daughers 1 block east of 1st Ave. 179 E Houston St (212) 475-4880.
Kee's Chocolates at 80 Thompson Street PH: 212.334.3284
Di Palo Fine Foods Inc, 200 Grand St New York NY 10013 (212) 226-1033.
Jacques Torres Manhattan 350 Hudson, between Charlton & King
Chicago is my spiritual chow home