Harold McGee on Citrus
Harold McGee on Citrus
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Harold McGee on Citrus
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Post #1 - January 9th, 2007, 4:13 pmFrom his blog:
Harold McGee wrote:Lemon varieties and flavors: From Italy, a study of the aromatic substances in the hand-squeezed juices of four Sicilian lemon varieties grown near Siracusa. It found not just variations in flavors, but a huge twenty-fold range in the total quantities of aromatics, with Verdello Siracusano having the most and Femminello Siracusano the least. Where would our standard Eureka or Lisbon place? We may never have tasted a truly intense lemon.
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Oil-breaking effects of citrus aromatics: From South Korea, a study of the effect of citrus peel aromatics on vegetable oils. This study seems to have been motivated by two Japanese reports that the main aromatic in raspberries "melts human fat" and is good for weight loss! That sounds pretty dubious, but Hyang-Sook Choi found something interesting by looking at the chemical changes in olive oil caused by the addition of various citrus peel aromatics. The citrus aromatics break apart the molecules of the olive oil, and release free oleic acid. Free oleic acid is a defect in olive oils. It can have an irritating effect in the mouth, and it destabilizes emulsions like mayonnaise. So an oil flavored with lemon may have a lovely aroma, but it can be less pleasant in the mouth or in a sauce.
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Post #2 - January 9th, 2007, 8:28 pmInteresting science on the citrus/oil interaction.
I wonder if lemongrass has the same effect? If not, it might be a better way to flavor oily sauces like a mayonnaise.
Then again, the solvents are primarily found in the peel not the juice, so lemon juice is probably OK.What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
-- Lin Yutang
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Post #3 - January 11th, 2007, 9:18 amLemons seem, of course, to be a commodity product that one (meaning, I) usually buy based on price and convenience. The only major difference I've noted is that the ones sold at Dominick's look prettier and the ones sold at Caputo's look not so good but may be juicier. We use a lot of lemons at our house (salad dressing), so it'd be interesting to see if there's a reliable source of the consistently good stuff."Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins
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Post #4 - January 11th, 2007, 11:55 amHI,
A few years ago, I went to the grocery store with Bob S. I was buying lemons for a tart and selecting them more on looks. Bob S reminded me of a Cook's Illustrated note on selecting lemons. If the lemons are stiff, then you will extract less juice. If they are pliable even juicy feeling, then they you will extract more juice. I've been buying juicy lemons ever since based on that bit of wisdom from Bob S and Cook's Illustrated.
Regards,Cathy2
"You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
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