Fun Down River

We woke up Sunday with the intention of visiting the Maxwell Street market. Me just to eat, the wife to eat and shop and the kidz to pine over porcelain dolls, water yo-yo's and 1,000 other things that they want until they see the next thing they want. Give them $5 to spend for the day, and watch it go before the first taco consumed. Then, I read about the Arizona Charlie's flea market in Bollingbrook in Sunday's Chicago Tribune, and we decided to change plans. It might have been a good flea market with some good Mexican food. We never got there. Instead we did a bit of exploring of the South-West suburbs, some of the great and somewhat hidden gems of Chicagoland.

Whenever possible, I refuse to take the expressway. Sunday morning with little traffic, why not take the mother-road, old route 66 to Bollingbrook. What better way to "accidently" run into Honey Fluff Donuts, an under discussed food outlet in the Chicago area. I would not call Honey Fluff donuts truly great. I would not necessarily run from Oak Park to Countryside for a Honey Fluff donut, but when I drive by a Honey Fluff shop on a Sunday morning, damn if I am not gonna stop. For those who adore bearpaw sized apple fritters, Honey Fluff's looked awfully tempting. I limited myself, miserly, to one fresh buttermilk donut in anticipation of eating to come.

One cannot drive the full extent of old route 66. Right about where there is a huge hole in the ground (quarry), Joliet Road/Rt 66 detours and then just stops, forcing you on to Interstate 55. Instead of getting off at the re-started Joliet Road, we decided to get off at route 83 with the thought of brunch at Del Rhea's Chicken Basket. No brunch. Somehow this got us to Lemont, Illinois. We drove around this town for a while, but did not quite find the place that looked like we wanted. Still, what a great appearing place. Lemont may be a suburb, and I am sure outside Main Street it looks like any other suburb, but in the center of Lemont, along Main and the surrounding streets, it looked like any other small town in Illinois. I look forward to exploring Lemont a bit more some other time.

Going downriver, we ended up in Lockport. Reading the many signs around this town, you learn that at one point in the 19th century, Lockport stood equal with Chicago as the cities in Illinois. The Illinois-Michigan canal that made Lockport, Chicago and Illinois prosper is just a shallow duck pond now. Even with the signs, it is hard necessarily to imagine the locks and the canal traffic. But there are all sorts of historical buildings, left-over stuff from a around Will county plopped down, museums and sites in Lockport (nearly all, however closed mid-day on Sunday). Not only did we enjoy exploring yesterday, we avidly seek to return.

Of course, for me, no trip is worth discussing if it does not include food. Lockport has a couple of places of serious interest to the Chowhound: Public Landing, in the historic Gaylord Building on the canal and Tallgrass, a highly regarded Frenchish restaurant. There are, however, other places for the casual stroller. We ate breakfast and ice cream. The food at neither place was outstanding, but boy are the people in Lockport nice. The service in both places was, like Stepford Wives nice. And more than made up for anything on the menu.

Brunch, we ate at Old Stone Cafe. It's one of those places that serves a basic diner menu in a room devoid of naughahyde and adds eggs benedict and cappuchino to the menu for a bit of class. On the other hand, the prices were much cheaper than the same kind of places in Chicago. Biscuits and gravy tasted real enough but lacked a bit of soul. Same with their "State Street potatoes". The effort was there, but a certain amount of pizzaz was lacking. The Condiment Queen was not that happy with her mutltigrain pancakes. I'd eat at this place if I lived in Lockport, but other than that...

About an hour of so later, we stopped for ice cream at Cool Creations. With its stove, flavorings and machines quite visible, it is clear that Cool Creations makes their own ice cream--actually they make some of their own ice cream, they buy some also from Shermans. Like Old Stone Cafe, one can appreciate the effort but realize it is just not that special. Again, I would go here if I lived nearby, but not really run to.

Our last food stop in Lockport was at a farmstand on the way out of town on State, Glascott's I believe. They had plenty of corn, squashes, end of year cucumbers (it showed), and some very nice tomatoes. I'm glad it was there because we could not make our farmer's market on Saturday.

We timed all our eating to be ready for lupper, although the rest of the family did not know exactly what I had in mind. White Fence Farm IS a destination place. I can remember a time when White Fence Farm seemed like a trip to the country. Today, it is almost another suburban restaurant. Almost. One of the Chowhound posts that always sticks in my mind is Seth Zurer asking if White Fence Farm was a hot-sauce, white bread, bad fries kinda place. No. This is highly genteel fried chicken. Country fried chicken. Great fried chicken. Stiff, brittle, ideal crust protecting moist meat, pre-popeyes fried chicken. WFF came into being when good country fried chicken was not enough. As they say on Broadway, one needs a gimmick. WFF has them up the wazoo. Dinner comes with five relishes: pickled beets with soft onions, really rich cottage cheese, kidney beans in a thin mayo, a slaw of extra-fine mince in a clear dressing, and corn fritters that are a marvel of textures and flavors including a sugary crust and bits of kernals that stick to your teeth. For dessert at WFF, most of the players get the brandy ice, proof that cheap liquor and average vanilla ice cream tastes terrific together. Other gimmicks at WFF include a collection of vintage cars, a petting zoo, and those fun house mirrors I love. A lot of these gimmicks were put in place when the wait for chicken dinners seemed endless. I do not know if yesterday was typical, but it was not quite the madhouse I remember. One other point on White Fence Farm, skip the mashed potatoes, get the baked.

Old Stone Cafe
1100 South State Street
Lockport IL 60441
815-834-0500

Cool Creations Deli & Ice Cream
937 South Hamilton Street
Lockport IL 60441
815-838-4700

White Fence Farm
11700 Joliet Road
Lemont, IL 60439
630-739-1720 or 815-838-1500

Hi,

I often do what you do, the surrendipity meanderings which lead you to undiscovered gems. In another lifetime, I used to get intentionally lost just to find interesting parks, shops and other areas of very local interest. Not so easy to get lost now because I have solid knowledge of Chicago.

Friday evening I was on the south and west sides doing a similar jaunt with Erik M, Bob S and Rene G; which will be reported about one of these days. Some places I had read about but never seen. Some places I had passed many times but learned some now local lore to make it much more entertaining. We even tried something unique which Rene G has been carefully researching and will report on once he is satisfied with his information. It was a classic Chowist evening of interesting conversation and food exploration.

I have always showed up at White Fence Farm at the wrong moment. I have seen it, touched it, walked around it but I have never eaten there. One of these days...

Looks like you and Mike G were on the same page yesterday of taking the family adventuring.

I love White Fence Farm. I've been going there since the late 1960s (as an infant), and have marvelled at the changes in the surrounding area. I too can remember when a trip out there was a trip to the country--corn fields as far as you could see off the highway. Slowly but surely the area has become a suburb (exurb?) but White Fence Farm remains. And those corn fritters are truly one of the greatest things on earth.

And Rob, as an Oak Parker, I'm sure you're aware of the White Fence Farm carry-out store in Riverside, on Harlem, just north of the intersection of Harlem and Ogden. However, others might not be--so if Rob's post put you in the mood to try this chicken, and you don't feel like going all the way to Lemont, there is a closer option. Take out only, however, so you will miss the atmosphere, which is part of the charm. Still, the food is the reason the place has been going for so long, and the carry-out location has the same great chicken, same fritters, same slaw. No bean relish or cottage cheese, however. But the chicken--and the fritters...great stuff.

john m wrote:And Rob, as an Oak Parker, I'm sure you're aware of the White Fence Farm carry-out store in Riverside, on Harlem, just north of the intersection of Harlem and Ogden. However, others might not be--so if Rob's post put you in the mood to try this chicken, and you don't feel like going all the way to Lemont, there is a closer option. Take out only, however, so you will miss the atmosphere

I've had carry-out chicken from the White Fence Farm during a block party about two years ago. The taste was okay, but as with many things fried, it tends to get lost in in transportation. I'm a little unfamiliar with the area, but if I were to go to the place on Harlem, I'd probably carry out and then high-tail it to a nearby park to eat the chick while it's still warm.

Hammond

Hello all,

I also have grown up on WFF chicken, and hold the corn fritters in the highest esteem. I know the owners used to shut down for something like 3 months a year to vacation. They used to have a carryout spot in Naperville, but alas it closed a couple of years ago.

John, are you sure the Harlem ave location is still open? When I lived in Lyon's (2 years ago), I never found the place to be open. Though my travels on Harlem were very limited the the Berwyn Fruit Market.

Flip

Funny enought, this question came up about a year ago, when I posted about the carry out WFF on another board--someone suggested that it was closed. I promptly called my parents, who live in the area, and they verified it was open. I have had their chicken in 2004, so I can verify that it has been open since you moved from Lyons.

Something is making me think that they do close for an extended vacation--either in the depths of winter or during the hottest days of summer. I'm not sure why I think this, but it does ring a bell. Maybe you just hit them during a vacation.

David Hammond wrote:

john m wrote:And Rob, as an Oak Parker, I'm sure you're aware of the White Fence Farm carry-out store in Riverside, on Harlem, just north of the intersection of Harlem and Ogden. However, others might not be--so if Rob's post put you in the mood to try this chicken, and you don't feel like going all the way to Lemont, there is a closer option. Take out only, however, so you will miss the atmosphere

I've had carry-out chicken from the White Fence Farm during a block party about two years ago. The taste was okay, but as with many things fried, it tends to get lost in in transportation. I'm a little unfamiliar with the area, but if I were to go to the place on Harlem, I'd probably carry out and then high-tail it to a nearby park to eat the chick while it's still warm.

Hammond

This was my thought exactly. That this is food meant to be eaten very soon after preparation, and that by the time it reached my home, which is about as far as possible between Oak Park and North Riverside, it would not be worth it.

I have, however, driven past the place several times, and seen it open.

Rob

There is a quite good candy shop on the main street in Lockport. Toffee brickle and that kind of thing. I used to be in the Lockport/Romeoville area a lot and would go there for my sugar fix.

Of course, Lockport is best known for Czimer's (or perhaps most notorious for it). Czimer's used to be the prime purveyor of exotic meats: bear, moose, antelope, alligator, zebra, lion, kangeroo, raccoon (I didn't see Squirrel, so no Brunswick Stew). However, the owner was convicted in 2003 of trading in endangered meats (tiger, I think), and then immediately afterwards animal rights activists burned the store.

I haven't been to Czimer's in two years, but I understand from a post on eGullet that they are open again. I called their number, but it was after closing, but I was not told that it was a disconnected number.

Not only do they have quite an array of meats and fish, but other odd food products for those who are uncomfortable about eating Musk Ox.

I must confess a certain ambivalence as to whether everything is "fair game" for a chowist. But apparently it is legal to sell the meats listed above. We could have an interesting thread (perhaps we have had one) on the politics of chowhounding.

Next time you're in Lockport, pay a visit whether you choose to buy (but not on Sundays, when they are closed).

Czimer's
13136 W. 159th Street
Lockport

708-301-0948

GAF wrote:There is a quite good candy shop on the main street in Lockport. Toffee brickle and that kind of thing. I used to be in the Lockport/Romeoville area a lot and would go there for my sugar fix.

Thanks for bringing that place up. We salvitated greatly at the closed store, closed but still displaying a sign outside for free toffee. I also liked how they had an older candy machine that looked like a prop from I Love Lucy visible from the window.

We are definanately returning to Lockport on a day other than Sunday.

There are actually three take out locations: Joliet, Riverside, and Downers Grove.

I too was often taken to the location as a kid and continued the same with my own (though its been quite a few years). One thing I always remembered (and find not touted even on their web page) is how many special needs people they employed. I was a bit intimidated by them as a child, and this place helped me to be more comfortable than those other enabled that I.

Does anyone know if they continue this tradition? If so, it will further compel me to go sooner rather than later.

http://www.whitefencefarm.com/

-Ramon

edit, add, thanks for Hattyn (sp?) below. I was remembering the wonderful charitable work of Lamb's Farm, not White Fence Farm. Please excuse my idiocy.

Is WFF similiar to Lamb's Farm?I would more likely be out LF way.

Thanks Hattyn, I was remembering Lamb's Farm, not White Fence Farm. I don't remember ever being at White Fence Farm. I'll take the family to both and see what happens!

-Ramon

I have enjoyed WFF when eating at the main resto, but not much when carrying out, which I have tried twice this summer. Not really that much better than Brown's, say. I must agree with the others, even Hammy hisself, that fried chicken is not as portable as it first appears. But I think WFF chicken is also more lightly seasoned than most, and these old taste buds may be looking for a bit more of a jolt - either from seasoning, or intense crispiness.

On the other hand, the corn fritters are great, and I had the pleasure of watching them being made at the DG location last month. Plop, plop, sizzle.

I think a lot of the deterioration of Fried Chicken taken away from the premises is caused by poor packaging. I have noticed that the chicken I pick up at The Chicken Hut in Evanston stays crisp and good until I get it home. I think this is a combination of two things:

1. The chicken is packed immediately after being taken from the fiyer.
2. The packaging materials at the Shack are coated cardboard that is not completely sealed at the top, thus allowing steam to escape and not make the breading mushy.

I suspect that not only is the WFF chicken made ahead of time, but also completely sealed in whatever packaging they use (I can't remember for sure what is is, but I remember it being completely sealed inside of a bag of some sort after being packaged).

I spent a chunk of my formative years living within a reasonable bike ride of the original WFF, and a friend who was a few years older managed the Joliet carryout location during my final two years of high school as well. I've never actually worked in any capacity in the food service industry, but I did get to check out the kitchens in both locations a couple times.

The biggest thing that stands out in my mind is the kitchen at the main location on Joliet Road. Back behind the carryout area, connecting it to the "proper" kitchen of the sit-down restaurant were a pair of simply massive horizontally oriented cylinders, with large doors on one end that reminded me of a submarine. (Imagine the wheeled sealing mechanism, similar to what you'd see on a ship.) I might be incorrect (it's been years, and I wasn't nearly as interested in cooking in my teens) but I recall being told they were pressure cookers. Does that sound right?

WFF always closed for the coldest months of the winter. The Hasterrts (always just called "Bob Jr." and "Bob Sr.") would leave town, entrusting the care of their homes to trustworthy employees - generally high school kids. I remember being to at least a couple of massive parties in Bob Jr's place on nearby Bluff Road. (Bob Sr., if he's still around, lived in the large home behind the parking lot out back.)

As far as carry out packaging, I have to admit with some guilt that I haven't dined on their fare in... probably 8 or 9 years. (Which is shameful, considering I work mere miles from the Riverside location.) When I last had the occasion to eat there, they packaged the chicken in laminated cardboard with small holes along the top to let moist air out. (And maybe, just maybe, a piece of wax paper on top? I don't know if I remember that or not.) I never had a problem with soggy chicken, but home was rather close as well. I always remember the container they gave the chicken to you in, reminding me of the small containers they send you home with when you buy a small bird, or other type of pet at a pet shop.

Hrm.... maybe I can make it out of the office, and hit the Riverside carryout before they close.

Inspired by this thread, I went to the WFF in Riverside on Saturday for carry out. I LOVED everything except the mashed potatoes, which were reconstituted (even so, not the worst fake mashed I've eaten). We live near Grand and Ogden and took the food home to eat. Upon arrival, the chicken was crispy, crunchy, moist and just fantastic. WFF does not put the chicken into the fat until you order it. That's what they claim and that is indeed what they did on our visit. Also, it came loosely packaged in light cardboard boxes with plenty of holes for steam to escape. And the fritters far exceeded my expectations in that they were the perfect combination of weird and delicious. Sweet on the outside, salty on the inside, mmm mmm good. I would do the drive again just for those. Fortunately, WFF gives plenty of other reasons.
Thanks again, LTH.