I went to Fiddlehead Cafe a few days back and wanted to share my thoughts. Its atmosphere is as lovely as the Lincoln Square neighborhood: warm, inviting, unpretentious, cozy, but not boring. It has an oddly shaped, elevated dining room that opens onto the street and allows for excellent people watching through the large windows that are open in the warmer weather and decorated by large hanging potted plants. I think the design and the feel of this restaurant has so far been the best example of unpretentious attractiveness that I've seen in Chicago.
Unfortunately, I cannot give the same level of praise to the food. While not disappointing, it seems to be overreaching. The menu promises intricate combinations and high level of execution, but the results do not quite deliver. Don't get me wrong, none of the dishes I tried at Fiddlehead were bad. It's just that they weren't quite what they could have been or what the menu and, frankly, the prices suggested they would be.
I started with Roasted Beet & Strawberry Salad with field greens, candied pecans, shaved fennel, pecorino and creamy balsamic reduction. The combination of the beets and the strawberries was truly refreshing and unusual. The different types of sweetness coming from each of those ingredients were well balanced by the slight bitterness of the greens and the salty rustic feel of pecorino. The crunch of the pecans was delightful, but the greens looked tired and I did not get the requisite kick from the fennel, which seemed as if it had lost its flavor from being out for too long.
The next dish I tried was a ceviche of shrimp, squid and scallops, which was the special of the day. It came in the form of very finely chopped ingredients piled into four pieces of tortilla chips. I thought this was the tastiest dish of the meal. The ceviche was juicy with just the right amount of citrus and spices. It played well with the crunchy tortilla chips and I thought the presentation was, again, pleasantly unusual and creative.
For my main course, I chose Steamed Mussels with chorizo, mushrooms, spinach and wild rice in a saffron broth. These were OK, but nothing special. The mushrooms were bitter, the mussels were average and the broth was a bit salty. My companion picked Duck Club, Duck Confit, Smoked Duck Breast sandwich with arugula, marinated goat cheese, strawberry-rosemary jam and fries. This was a bit of a disappointment. I am usually very fond of the duck in almost all its forms, but this sandwich was in my opinion incongruent. While the arugula gave a good bitter aftertaste to the earthiness of the duck, the rest of the ingredients seemed to me out of place. The strawberry-rosemary jam was a mistake. Particularly, the strawberry part of it. It was a puzzling, but not a welcome addition to the taste combination. The marinated goat cheese, should have been omitted along with the strawberries and the fries were fleshy and soggy. I was also puzzled by the need of a third layer of toast in the middle of the sandwich. It made the sandwich taller and, thus, more difficult to consume and really detracted from one's ability to concentrate on the duck. I think the chef got carried away by the design and, well.... sometimes, experiments like that just don't work out for the best.
Generally speaking, I had a very pleasant time at Fiddlehead and will certainly go back to try their other offerings, as well as make a note of this place for a cozy outing with friends. And did I mention that their wine list was very, and I mean, very extensive? I'd be curious to dig into that and the dessert on my next visit.