One day last week I went driving around looking for something new around Division & Damen-- what neighborhood would that be again?
Of course, what I found at lunchtime was that what was new was not open, and what was open was not new. (I did get to read Crust's very slick marketing stuff in its windows about how unslick and natural it is, or will be. I trust that the whiff of Chipotle its marketing gives off is not a fair reflection of the restaurant.)
Finally, in some desperation, and following Mike G's new awnings technique, I picked a place with a new awning that proclaimed Janik's Cafe. (The new awning turns out to be because it used to be
Janik's Subs.) I have to say that the initial vibes I got from the pleasant interior did not suggest a marvelous culinary experience ahead. The first sandwich listed as a choice on the board was PB&J... wraps came with your choice of tortilla flavors (spinach, tomato, etc.), which suggested the flavor-overkill school of strip mall chain dining... mediocrity shouted from every direction, but I was the only one standing in front of the cash register, I couldn't leave. Although Janik is presumably a Polish name or something, the staff seemed Mexican, so I decided to go with something Mexicanish-- a breakfast burrito, egg and chorizo inside, I mean, hell, if extremely Anglo places like Flo and Kitsch'n can make a decent one, these guys should... play to their strengths, I thought...
...dissolve to the kitchen, early that morning. Janik, a fearsomely bearded Pole who learned his trade in the Polish Navy during the blockade of 1936, flings a bag from McDonald's at his crew of cowering Mexican cooks. "Thees! Thees is a bureakfast boorito, you skoorvy sons of Gdansker wharf fleas!"
Okay, the eponymous Janik is probably actually a nice lady for all I know, not a character from Tintin, but riddled, honeycombed, catacombed with vast amounts of scrambled egg inside its tomato-tortilla wrap exterior, and only lightly dotted with chorizo or anything else imparting flavor, this was just like a McD's breakfast burrito (per my memory of many years ago, that is), except bigger and harder to get through. The beans actually were okay, the rice was, well, Mexican rice, but the burrito was an eggy overdose that has kept me from wanting another egg for a week (and in fact sent me across the street for Caffe Gelato, just to wipe the taste out).
The question is, did I just order extremely badly at Janik's, outsmart myself in my attempt to avoid mediocrity and find a little slice of above-averageness, or is it just the kind of place that would be a nice little breakfast place if it was in the Pheasant Crossing Mall next to the Christian bookstore and Second Time's The Charm kids' clothing near the new tract houses off I-77 just north of Plungeville, but not at Damen and Division in the authentic urban heart of Chicago?
Janik's Subs, make that Cafe
2011 W. Division, Chicago
Tel: (773) 276-7930