Paris recs requested

Two college students going to Paris in March for spring break. We are on a mission to taste some of the best that Paris has to offer in terms of foodstuffs. However, we're not filthy rich so money is an issue. We're searching for recommendations for where to go to get delicious baguettes and macarons. What else is can't miss in Paris? Someone told me gelato but I thought that was Italian? Falafels? And restaurant recs for nice dinners? Maybe we'll splurge on one or two more expensive dinners (Are there good places for $75 or less a person?) and the rest can be more reasonable priced. If anyone has any suggestions for where to go and places to see that would be wonderful as well as estimates for how much things will cost. Thanks so much!

Pierre Hermes for macarons. One of the most delicious confections in the universe. Going to Paris and not trying these is like going to Maine and not eating a lobster roll.

Bet you can't eat just one!

Bill/SFNM

Having lived in Paris for five years on a student budget...I know your constraints!

A charming, low-key Provencal restaurant is Le Table des Oliviers in the 17th- small space, very friendly staff, no American tourists to be found. The prix fixe menu at 37 euro per person is a steal.

For a little something pricier, the grand degustation menu (70 euro) at L'Angle du Faubourg (which shares a kitchen/space with Taillevent) is a blast.

http://www.latabledesoliviers.fr/
http://taillevent.com/

I know there have been several discussions on this board about dining in Paris, including those about eating well on a budget, so I'd try searching. Also, this recent article from the New York Times about Paris falafel might be of interest (may require free registration to view):

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?sec=travel&res=9E05E4DB1131F932A05751C1A9609C8B63

We adore Gerard Mulot in the 6th arrondissemont; they have divine macaroons and everything else is quite wonderful as well. They also carry lunch items like salads (the shrimp-grapefruit-avocado I still dream about) and with a bread you have a fine picnic, and just a few blocks away is the beautiful square around the San Sulpice church where you can enjoy your meal. And French ice cream is extraordinary, everywhere but maybe especially at Berthillon on the lle-de-France, which I know has been discussed before so you can find an address somewhere (you just keep going behind Notre Dame is all I know). I do think there are many good bistros where you can eat incredibly well for under $75 a person, as we certainly did, but you know I would say to gather these recommendations and use them, but also wander about and find someplace that you think looks inviting -- that's what makes Paris so intoxicating. One of our best meals (we were there last summer) we had at a bistro that was not listed in any guidebook and had not been recommended by anyone -- but it was two doors down from our hotel and while we were perusing the menu outside the owner came out and engaged with conversation with our two girls -- which was especially charming because he spoke no English and we spoke (almost) no French. Based on this pleasant encounter, we decided to return for dinner that evening, and we had one of the best meals we'd had during our trip (heavenly cassoulet) made all the more memorable by the culinary "gifts" he kept bringing to our table to treat my daughters (including chocolate mousse, which was not not on the menu but came to us nonetheless when my daughter expressed a desire for it.) Our magical dinner with Andre (that actually was his name), we still refer to it. I can't tell you the name of this place as I honestly don't remember it, but I know we'll visit there again next summer, as it will still be down the street from the hotel we'll be staying at again! Have an incredible time -- I'm sure you will!

first - go to the madeline square. it is surrounded by all the best paris has to offer in food stores. you may not buy anything, but this is the place to look.

for a very good dinner, go to brassarie balzar http://www.brasseriebalzar.com/ get the onion soup and the roast chicken. this is a fantastic example of this type of place. great crowd, great staff, fantastic food

I can't find the name of the place, but there is a great cous cous place across from the station at monparnasse. frankly, paris is full of cous cous places, and you should try one.

have fun

As far as the gelato question goes-- yes, you must have gelato at Berthillon. It is damned expensive for the teeny little scoop you get. You will not worry about cost once you taste it.

If Berthillon is closed when you get there, lots of other places on the Ile-St. Louis sell their gelato, usually with friendlier service.

Probably the best way to stretch your money is to picnic one meal a day-- buy some bread and cheese, or a premade sandwich if it looks decent (just ham and butter or camembert on a baguette, but often sublime), find a nice place to hang out, and do just that.

You can keep to a budget and eat very well, though perhaps not on white tablecloths, in the Marais district. Check out the food offerings on the Rue des Rosiers. You can find at least two places that claim to have the world's best falafel, and you won't regret trying either one of them.

L'As du Fellafel
39 rue des Rosiers

and the place that urges you to "taste and compare":
Mi-Va-Mi
27, rue des Ecouffes

Also affordable and very good (though jam-packed):

Chez Marianne
2 rue de l'Hospitalière Saint Gervais

The rue des Rosiers also has a couple of great bakeries and some wonderful book shops, so it's a great place to stroll. But be warned, on a Saturday night the streets are suddenly wall-to-wall with crowds of people -- fun, but a very different atmosphere.

Also nearby is a place selling perfect, and I mean absolutely perfect cups of espresso. They don't sell food of any kind and the entire shop (where they roast their own coffee beans) is the size of a king-sized matress, but they have one tiny table. So bring your bag of macaroons and order an espresso (a café serré is about two tablespoons and an allongé is an almost normal amount of espresso).

Cafes Amazone
11, rue Rambuteau, 75004
open on Sunday

And I owe my knowledge of that wonderful place to chez pim:

http://chezpim.typepad.com/blogs/2004/1 ... cher_.html

I forgot to mention that you shouldn't neglect the other cuisines of Paris! As wonderful as the bistros and bakeries are, there are also a host of great African restaurants, such as:

Chez Dom [Senegalese]
34, rue de Sambre-et-Meuse, 10th Arr., Belleville Metro stop

La Jungle Transafric [Cameroonian]
15, rue d'Aboukir, 2nd Arr., Santier Metro stop

À la Banane Ivoirien [Ivory Coast]
10, rue de Forge-Royale, 11th Arr., Ledru Rollin Metro stop

If you go to the Metro stop Château Rouge (18th Arr.), you can check out the markets in the rue des Poissoniers and the marché de la rue Dejean, as well as the Ivory Coast shops and groceries in the rue Doudeauville.

The Maghrebian places are too numerous to name, but I'll give you a few:

Andy Wahloo (the bar) and Le 404 (the more formal restaurant)
69, rue des Gravilliers, 3rd Arr., Arts et Métiers stop

Au Pied de chameau (a pricier option)
20, rue Quincampoix, 4th Arr.

And there's the Egyptian favorite (haven't tried this yet, though):

Néfertari
6, rue Saint-Marc, 2nd Arr., Bourse metro stop

Nor have I yet made it to the highly recommended:

Coco de Mer [cuisine of the Seychelles]
34, boulevard Saint-Marcel, 5th Arr.

But I will on my next visit!

globetrotter wrote:first - go to the madeline square. it is surrounded by all the best paris has to offer in food stores. you may not buy anything, but this is the place to look.

I'll second that. And in French, it'll be Place de Madeline (I hope I'm spelling that right. We did buy some stuff in one of the Fauchon shops, try some of their jams (pear vanilla was awesome).

Paris is a great city to travel on foot or by Metro. There's a few train 'dead zones' but not many. We stayed near the Gare de Lyon in a very friendly but inexpensive hotel and jumped from there to just about anywhere in the city.

Wandering around St. Germaine you can get all kinds of street food. Don't forget to grab a crepe filled with nutella or gruyere (watch out, the cheese ones will be like napalm).

We didn't have a bad meal or a bad bottle of wine even in the cheapest restaurants. We were literally dragged off the street into one place on the eve of Bastille Day, it was a hole in the wall but wonderful steak frites and grilled sausages and stuff like that.

Le Souffle has always been a Paris favorite. It's a small quaint, semi-formal, two room restaurant. The cheese and chicken souffles are our favorites. Be sure to experience one of the three dessert souffles: Grand Marnier, chocolate, and raspberry.

Le Souffle
36 rue Mont Thabor
tel: 4620-2719

Jo Goldenberg's is, I believe, currently closed and will be going out of business after 50 years:

http://ejpress.org/article/5194

And I agree that a steady diet of crepes can save your budget in Paris!

Too bad about Goldenberg's. I've enjoyed other kosher restaurants in that area, but can't recall their names. However, good lox, crepes, and souffles are plentiful in Paris. For the absoulte richest hot chocolate of your life, Angelina is the place to go.

Angelina
226 Rou de Rivoil
tel: 33/1-42-60-82-00

spiffytriphy wrote:Two college students going to Paris in March for spring break. We are on a mission to taste some of the best that Paris has to offer in terms of foodstuffs. However, we're not filthy rich so money is an issue. We're searching for recommendations for where to go to get delicious baguettes and macarons. What else is can't miss in Paris? Someone told me gelato but I thought that was Italian? Falafels? And restaurant recs for nice dinners? Maybe we'll splurge on one or two more expensive dinners (Are there good places for $75 or less a person?) and the rest can be more reasonable priced. If anyone has any suggestions for where to go and places to see that would be wonderful as well as estimates for how much things will cost. Thanks so much!

Baguettes: Maison Kayser
- Famed artisanal baguette revivalist. This location is Eric Kayser's organic shop (with seating) just a few doors away from his original (no seating) in the Latin Quarter. There are more locations around Paris - and a few worldwide. Get the classic Parisian breakfast - half a baguette split lengthwise - with a side of butter and jam - and a cafe creme. Total - about 3€ per person.
Maison Kayser
14, rue Monge (5th arr, Métro Maubert-Mutualité)
01 44 07 17 81
Open 8h-20h15, closed Mondays
http://www.maison-kayser.com/

Macaroons: Pierre Herme
- Master of the Parisian macaroon (the delicate cream filled meringue pastry). Until last year M. Herme introduced new pastries with fashion-like-shows. Now he's revisiting his "classics". Get the macaroon of the moment and his modern classic Ispahan - a large macaroon sandwich - pink rose-flavoured macaroons, raspberries, and lychee cream. Two locations in Paris - go to the original (no seating) and have your pastries at the Cafe de la Mairie around the corner. There's a non-smoking section upstairs - in theory anyway - that overlooks St. Sulpice across the street (notorious in The Da Vinci Code). I personally made this cafe the unofficial Pierre Herme tasting room so please clean up after yourself (take your bags and boxes out with you). Total - including coffee or tea at the cafe - about 10€ p/p.
Pierre Herme
72, rue Bonaparte (6th arr, Métro St. Sulpice)
01 43 54 47 77
Open Tuesdays-Sundays, 10h-19h, Saturdays until 19h30, closed Mondays
http://www.pierreherme.com

Cafe de la Mairie
8 pl St. Sulpice
01 43 26 67 82

Ice Cream: Berthillon
- Third-generation luxury ice cream parlour. Get the marron glacé avec la poire (candied chestnuts with pear) - in the summer get fraises des bois (literally strawberries of the woods - wild strawberries). Cones are take-out only so dress warmly. Total - depending on how many scoops - 2-4,60€ p/p.
Berthillon
31, rue St. Louis en L’Ile (4th arr, Métro Pont Marie)
01 43 54 31 61
Open 10h to 20h, closed Mondays and Tuesdays
http://www.berthillon-glacier.fr/

(The gelato everyone gets in Paris is Amorino, a mini-chain - Pozetto is another, better gelateria.)

Falafel: L'As du Falafel
- Everyone goes to L'As - they're good but there are a few places just as good up the street and around the corner in the historic Jewish/gay Marais. Get the Special - falafel sandwich with hummus. Off-the-menu-tip - ask them to tuck some frites in the sandwich. Total - about 5€ p/p.
L'As du Falafel
34, rue des Rosiers (4th arr, Métro Saint-Paul)
01 48 87 63 60
Open noon to midnight, closed Friday nights and Saturdays

"Nice dinner +/-$75 (55€) or less per person": A La Biche au Bois
- "Nice" is so hard to define for someone else but go to La Biche au Bois near the gorgeous Gare de Lyon (Belle Epoque train station). They specialise in game in season and offer hugely hearty 4-course meals - starter, main, cheese, and dessert - for only 23,20€. Splurge on the foie gras supplements for just a few euros more, wine, and don't forget the cognac. Total - about 40€ p/p.
A la Biche au Bois
45, ave Ledru-Rollin (12th arr, Métro Gare de Lyon)
01 43 43 34 38
Open lunch and dinner, closed Saturdays and Sundays

Also go to the absinthe bar Cantada. Watch your back in that neighborhood, but don't be intimidated by the hardcore French biker/goth crowd. Get the Nouvelle Orleans absinthe and some medieval cuisine. Total - about 20€ p/p.
Cantada
13 rue Moret (11th arr, Métro Couronnes/Ménilmontant)
01 48 05 96 89
Open 18h

Check out this post on my blog: Bourdain Fixer's Guide to Paris
http://www.movable-feast.com/2005/07/ab_nr_guide.html

Spiffytriphy,

You should be pleased to know that you can eat quite well at any number of places for $75 per person (or less). The following restaurants are well thought of in that price range: La Cagouille, Bistro Paul Bert, Le Comptoir (reserve well in advance), L'Ami Jean, Mon Viel Ami, Les Papilles, L'Os a Moelle (and Caves de L'Os a Moelle) , Fish La Boissoniere, and L'Ecailler Du Bistro amongst others. It is helpful to reserve a table a few days in advance at any of these establishments. A three course meal at most of these places is approximately 35 euros. More information on many of these places can be found at http://www.patriciawells.com/paris/ptables-bistros.htm. Alternatively you could just try a google search. My recent trip included meals at La Cagouille, Paul Bert, L'Ecailler du Bistro and Ze Kitchen Galerie. If you would like more detailed information, please feel free to send me a PM.

In addition, there are a few "fancier" choices available that fit the price range. I just ate a a one star restaurant called Le Violin D'Ingres and had dinner for about $75 a person (including more expensive wine). Benoit had a 39 euro fixed price lunch, but I thought the food at my dinner was a bit disappointing for the price.

While I found the wine costs to be extremely high at many places (higher than here), you can generally find a decent bottle of something you've never heard of if you rely on local knowledge. You could include one bottle of inexpensive wine per person in your budget.

If you would like to do some additional research, the Lebey Guide to Bistros is a valuable resource. Good luck in Paris.

I will try to remember the name of the pizza place where we ate.

We ate at a pizza place - Pizza Marzano.

Here is the website.
Pizza Marzano to the chain Pizza Express (not the oes in the US). There are some in London.
http://www.pizzamarzano.com/internacion ... hp?idioma=

Pizza Marzano
2 Place St. Michel
75006 Paris

There was a great place for crepes near there

I have just one recommendation - L'Os Moelle. Its well blogged - just do a search. The place is all the way at the far reaches of the 15th. Your tourist map won't even have the streets. You'll need to take the metro and then look at the station map to figure it out - its close by. The place has a nice blackboard menu in English. However, the patrons will be all French except for perhaps a few foodies. No tourist casually strolls into this place. I believe its 38 euros for 5-6 course tasting menu. I have pictures up on my flickr stream if you want to email me.

We also tried the L'as Falaffel place. Yes, its good. Get the special falaffel which has eggplant.

We ate a wonderful lunch at Taillevent, but the inexpensive degustation menu was no where to be seen. The place also recently lost a michelin star, but at least I've now ate at a three star place.

We even had pho - it was expensive and no where as good as what we get here in Chicago.

Oh - I used the Time Out Paris Eating Out guide - it was a bit old, but a good place to start.

For those going to Paris, or for the winter armchair travellers, here's some of the finest blogging I've read: Notes from a Parisite

Also, are any of the following Paris bistros on downsloping in the past year?

Cafe Constant
Chez L'ami Jean
Chez Clovis
A la Biche au Bois
L'Ambassade D'Auvergne
Chez Maitre Paul
La Machon d'Henri
L'Affriole
Mon Vieil Ami

Also, I'm assuming Grand Colbert and Au Pied du Cochon would be harmless for oysters and a bowl of soup. Just interested in the great old brasserie rooms.

Not sure if you'll find this helpful or not, but I use this a lot- the Postcards from Tom section of the Washington Post. Tom's the head food critic for the Washington post, and while not my absolute favorite critic in the world, he's right on 80-90% of the time.

Here's his postcard on Paris: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/ar ... 80507.html

I'm going to Paris next week and am looking for more dinner suggestions. I've been researching many of the places already suggested on this thread, but was hoping for some new suggestions as well. Part of the problem is people keep telling me to make reservations in advance which is difficult for me to do from Chicago. I've found a few restaurants and a website that take reservations online but could definitely still use some advice. One that I've already tried is Brasserie Balzar but am still waiting for an e-mail confirmation.

Thanks!

JackieK - when Mrs. Davooda and I went to Paris last I made all of the "important" reservations via telephone. In every instance when we arrived at the appointed hour we were escorted to our table. So, even with my admittedly medicore French, it worked very well.

An alternative could be to ask the concierge at your hotel - if you are staying at an establishment that has one - to make your reservations for you.

Bonne Chance!

I'm sure some heads will shake, and some smiles smirk, but I don't care: with reckless abandon I recommend Brasserie Flo. Touristy, sure; but mostly *French* tourists, if you get my drift. Great Alsatian food, wonderful professional staff, and certainly some of the best seafood in town. I've had an awful lot of fun and good food there.

Another favorite is L'auberge Landaise, a tiny place run by the proprietaire, his wife, and one maitre d'. Food from the Landaise, south-west France, with the best maigret de canard I've ever had in my life. He selects his own wines; has a wonderful selection of armagnacs.

Geo

Brasserie Flo
7, Cour Petites Ecuries
75010 Paris, France
+33 1 47 70 13 59

L' Auberge Landaise
23, rue Clauzel
75009 Paris
01 48 78 74 40

I'm a big fan of Wadja in Montparnasse. It's always packed with locals so you may wish to call ahead for a reservation (you can usually call the same day). I think they do a good bistro menu with a couple of Basque classiscs on the menu. I haven't been there in a couple years but the daily special usually includes appetizer/salad, entree and dessert for around 25 - 30 Euro.

You also may want to try (and this is totally cheezy but awesome just the same) Léon de Bruxelles. It's a chain of Belgian mussel joints that are something like Denny's in atmosphere...but that's a good thing, really!

They're EVERYWHERE, located in some of the most touristy neighborhoods (Champs Elysee, Latin Quarter, Les Halles, Bastille, etc.) so they're hard to miss. Mellonhubby and I had a great dinner there, around 15 Euro each for your own big pot of ale-steamed mussels, bread, frits and a beverage. Leon really changed my view of chain restaurants - I wish all American chains were this good.


Wadja
10, Rue de la Grande Chaumière (6th Arr.)
01-46-33-02-02

Leon de Bruxelles
Various locations
http://www.leon-de-bruxelles.fr/les_adr ... _paris.php

I recently spent a mere six very jet-lagged hours in Paris in rapid-fire search of the best eats I could find. I didn't do too bad:

The macaroons in this box were a revelation. Light as air, with sweet, intense fillings that truly encapsulated the essence of the main flavoring agent (pistacchio, lemon, and raspberry were the standouts).




Wading through gigantic, screaming crowds looking for cheese, produce, fish and poultry at the Sunday Bastille market was a blast. Here's one highlight:



The simple, unpretentious Bistro Camille is in a good people-watching spot, and served the best steak frites I've ever had. These crispy fries were definitely cooked in beef fat. The steak was a thing of beauty. Escargot in the shell were nothing like what I've been served in the states, even in high end French restaurants. The roasted, charred shell imparted a significant minerality to the dish. I loved them. Creme brulee was a perfect rendition.








From this bakery, I had a near-life-changing croissant, and a delicious mini pizza that was quite similar to something I made for the LTH potluck.






Our 6 hours in Paris also included two great coffee stops, and one scoop of so-so gelato. In the end, I was proud of us for garnering the energy to find and eat all this great stuff despite having been awake for 30+ hours straight. Then we were back to the airport and on our way to Venice.

.

Kennyz wrote: Creme brulee was a perfect rendition.

Sigh.

Kenny-

Great post. It's making me long for one of my favorite cities . . . damn Euro-dollar ratio . . .

This year's Christmas present to my wife will be a "nice-to-meet-you-again" weekend in Paris (without the kids) between the 9th and 11th of January.

I've seen and read a few Paris posts on the Forum including this one. They've been much help and inspiration.

However, I'm having a hard time getting my brain around the size of Paris. I'm concerned that many of the recommendations I've been reading will require long travel times as very few of them seem to involve places "close" to our hotel. While you and I may be willing to sit 45 minutes on the Metro to track down the perfect croissant, my wife will probably lose patience after passing the first 5 cafes...

So, does anyone have any recommendations for noteworthy places (cafes, bistros, bakeries, restaurants, shops) close to our hotel? I've booked a room at the Sofitel Trocadéro Dokhan's. Or, am I going about this the wrong way? Should I find a hotel in another area? The hotel's location looks fine for sightseeing but is it poor for dining?

Truthfully, any fresh and/or tried-and-true Paris recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

I would imagine many would consider it too touristy, but we had a very good meal with an excellent view of the Trocadero fountain and the Eiffel Tower at the restaurant inside the Musee de l'Homme. I believe the name is "Le Totem" and you could walk to it from your hotel. My recollection is of a three course prix-fixe for a not unreasonable price for the quality of the food/service and the view. It's not by any stretch a fine dining experience but solid nonetheless.

Since you're going in January it may be moot, but for a picnic we found a nice deli/wine shop on the street level of what looked to be a large condo building along Avenue de JFK near the Trocadero (going on memory here). We picked up a deliciously crispy ficelle (roughly half a baguette), some wonderfully creamy chevre and a bottle of Sancerre for a picnic lunch at the fountains.

Also - if you have time and inclination, stroll the Auteuil neighborhood since it's not too far from you (south and west - and Metro stop Auteuil). Some really neat architecture and cafes. We thoroughly enjoyed this historic area that was bereft of tourists like us!

Bon Voyage!
Davooda

Wonderful, Davooda! Very thoughtful recommendations.

Thanks for helping me/us out.