LTH,
The better half and I took the plunge into anticipated murky waters at Cotes de Rhone this week for dinner. We went in with eyes wide open as most reviews, on this site and others, tended to be lukewarm with some other reviews downright negative and even fewer takes bearing a stamp of approval. None the less, we feel Chicagoland has some very fine French bistros scattered throughout the City and beyond and we’re always up for expanding our horizons within this culinary ilk.
With guarded enthusiasm, we entered CDR after finding metered parking along Broadway about a block down from the restaurant. CDR is divided into two sparsely decorated rooms. Of the around 20 tables CDR boasts the southern-most room contains about 14 of them – you enter through the northern room directly into the seating area pretty much.
It appeared to us, and later was confirmed by our server, that 3 groups had entered within 2 or 3 minutes right before us. Although, we only waited about 2 minutes before we were seated.
The décor in the smaller entry dining room is basic – faux tile squares adorn the walls and a few of them have even fallen off. I actually think it might look better if they intentionally went around and semi-randomly yanked more of these faux gray tiles off the wall – would give the place a more hole-in-the-wall Parisian feel. The second, bigger dining room contains a rustic, brown and exposed Victorian ceiling with about three brown ceiling fans with mini-chandeliers. The walls are painted brown as well with nondescript artwork at intervals along the walls. Simple white tablecloths are placed over the tables here with a nice basic candle on each table.
I must make one comment before continuing this culinary review and that is to point out that I have read many a review on CDR just crucifying the décor – or lack there of. I must confess I find this a bit amusing considering the fact that should CDR, and its exact décor, have been located on some nondescript rue off the Champs-Élysées in Paris instead of on a rundown main thoroughfare in the heart of an emerging Chicago neighborhood the same reviewers might have found CDR’s décor charming, refreshing, authentic, lovingly rustic, truly Parisian, etc. But, I digress…
We sat on a two-top table nearest the window along the side wall in the main dining room. I must say, the floor was so uneven against the wall that I felt as if we were in a fight scene in one of those old Batman TV shows – where many of the villains’ hideouts had severely-angled floors. With Batman music running through my head the cork from the wine bottle took less than two seconds to roll from one side of the table to the other, POW! BAM! WHOP!. But, I digress once more…
Bread and water were brought out almost immediately. The bread was warm and alright, not great, not bad but I find that most French Bistros we visit have very good bread – it would be the worst “dish” we had all night, bar none. The place was about half full when we entered and a bit on the warm side which was corrected somewhat when halfway through our meal the house lights were dimmed – should have done this sooner.
The server came over after about 10 minutes and profusely apologized for the wait noting as mentioned above that several groups came in at the same time – understandable. As the server uncorked our 2003 "R" Primitivo Zinfandel from Nostro Vino Vineyard in Amador County, California, he deliberately took us on a tour of his favorites for each course through the entrées and noted a few specials. We selected the following…
Escargot with garlic butter
I love escargot and almost always order it as an appetizer if offered at a French bistro. The escargot was perfectly cooked, smothered in butter and just melted in my mouth. Really good. Probably an ever so barely noticeable partial notch right behind Le Bouchon’s version for best-in-the-City that I’ve tasted. An inspiring beginning.
Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels with shallots, white wine and garlic cream
The server really pushed this dish hard as his favorite – I was already leaning in this direction so not much help was needed to secure an order. It’d been quite some time since I had a memorable portion of steamed mussels in white wine sauce. Unlike many here, though I love Hopleaf, I do not like either version of their mussels at all – the sauce is utterly lacking any body. Not so with CDR’s version…WOW! Very fresh-tasting, nice portioned mussels with no hollow shells at all. The sauce was simply sublime with a denser, full-bodied texture than other dishes of the same ilk. Really very flavorful. Probably just barely into the Excellent category. I wondered out loud, could this be the CDR of which I heard so many thrashing reviews??
French Onion Soup
No dish had been so roundly assailed on the various forums as the FOS…I apprised my GF of same and urged her not to order this offering. Sorry Honey, but in the interests of transparency, my GF is a FOS whore. That’s right, a whore. If we went to Billy Bob’s BBQ in SW Texas and they offered FOS, she would try one before anything else on the menu. Against my counsel, GF ordered one up. It was a medium-small cauldron with perfectly browned Mozzarella (I think)? Swiss? Provolone? cheese on top with the right amount of bread/onions in the body of the soup. Very tasty and not too salty as seemed to be the complaint of most critics before. I liked it very much and I don’t really go for the FOS. The GF really liked it.
Spinach and Portobello Mushroom Salad with Lardons and Balsamic Vinaigrette
I love a Lyonnaise Salad…this was a cousin of that type of salad. No raw egg or traditional lardons here. Very fresh spinach, mushrooms, tomatoes, pulled-pork type lardons and a wonderful vinaigrette. A very nice accompaniment to our other appetizers. Well done, simple salad which the server offered to split for us.
South African Sea Bass
This dish was very good. It came with a garlic potato puree, grilled asparagus and lemon and white truffle oil. The fish was perfectly cooked. Extremely succulent and moist. Just melted in my mouth. The potato puree upon which the sea bass sat was exemplary and really added to the flavor of the entrée. The asparagus was thin and also perfectly cooked. The truffle oils perfectly enhanced the overall flavor of the dish. One of the best fish dishes in recent memory. Really their signature dish from what the server implied. A must have.
Pork Tenderloin
The GF ordered the pork which I hardly ever order as I find pork boring and relatively lacking in flavor that a seafood, steak or even chicken entrée might offer. The pork was pan roasted with sun dried cherry sauce, roasted root veggies and garlic mashed potatoes. This was one of the most flavorful (non-BBQ) pork entrees I have had in years. The pan roasted pork with the roasted carrots, potatoes and sun dried cherries created an orgy of flavors for the palate. A wild, dangerous Caligula-type orgy. I really could not believe how many different flavors, and most notably the combined flavors, that this dish offered. A real surprise for me.
Flourless (I believe) Chocolate Mousse Chocolate Cake
One of the best desserts I have ever had. I don’t know what else to say, really. Dense, double chocolate, mousse-cake heaven with caramel dipping sauce surrounding the plate offset by slices of kiwi. A 3500 calorie dream.
To give LTH an idea of where my tastes lie to better aide my review, I have listed below a ranking of all French Bistros I can remember dining at in Chicagoland:
Top Tier:
Le Bouchon
La Sardine
Marche
Cotes de Rhone
Boinsoree (maybe not a bistro?)
Cafe Bernard
Stained Glass Wine Bar Bistro (Evanston)
1st Tier:
Bistro Campagne
2nd Tier:
Kiki's Bistro
Cafe Pyrenees (closed I think - Vernon Hills)
3rd Tier:
Red Rooster (such a big difference bt. this and Bernard despite same kitchen)
La Tache
Back to Cotes de Rhone review...
Four appetizers (incl. soup and salad); Two entrées; One dessert; One coffee with tax and tip = $94. CDR is BYOB with
no corkage fee.
Simply one the best meals from start to finish I’ve had in a long, long time. There was a little wait between the appetizers and entrées but nothing egregious and the place was very busy toward the end of the night. Very knowledgeable server.
Maybe this sums up my experience best, the GF and I have a couple coming into the City in a few weeks who share our love of food. We made reservations on the way out – I can’t remember ever doing that before - anywhere.
Bster
Cotes de Rhone
5424 Broadway Avenue
Chicago, IL 60640
773.293.2683