Thursday evening (today actually) my wife and I dined at Les Nomades. In order to explain our reaction to Les Nomades, I need to discuss another recent dining experience.
My wife and I this past week returned from a trip to Maui. There, we dined at a place called Capische?. Capische? is an Italian restaurant that violates one of the main rules for fine dining: Never dine at a place with great views. Capische? has incredible views of the sunset over the Pacific. That alone would be reason to go. (In contrast, the question mark in the name of the restaurant is a reason not to go.) We have since learned that there is another reason, beyond the views, to dine at Capische?. The food is interesting and the service is actively engaged with the meal.
At Capische?, our first contact with the wait staff was when a waiter brought us water. The water was brought by a young assistant waiter. He was about 22. As he was bringing the water, we asked him what he liked about the menu. He raved about the white truffle risotto and the pumpkin gnocchi. His enthusiasm for the two starters was incredible. He explained that we could each order one, and they would split the portions so that we could share them. A few minutes later our main server arrived and we discussed those two starters along with a few other items on the menu. That server again was genuinely enthusiastic about the food. This wasn't your fake "our food is outstanding." This was two people who had tried the food and thought it kicked butt. So we ordered the recommended starters along with a salad (which they were happy to split) and two Hawaiian fish main courses.
Of course, the two starters did knock it out of the ballpark. The risotto rivaled dishes that I have had a Spiaggia, and the gnocchi was a revelation. It was amazingly light, with incredible flavors. The younger waiter who had initially made the recommendation seemed genuinely pleased that we liked the dishes as much as he did.
When it came to wine, the main server made the point of asking us what we typically drank. I let her know, but also let her know that we trusted her knowledge of the food and would be happy to drink whatever she recommended. Her choices were interesting, and paired very well with the food. That being said, I liked the idea of asking me what kind of wine I typically consume. It showed she cared about my taste and that she was interested in seeing that I had a great experience at Capsische?.
Overall, the food at Capische? was excellent, but the overall experience was made more so by waiters who really cared about the food. They WANTED us to like the food as much as they did. This was not the occasionally annoying "Hi, I'm Fred and I look forward to serving you tonight" sort of over-friendly service you see in a lot of American places. This was service by people who liked the food.
Our meal at Les Nomades provided a stark contrast. We were warmly greeted by Mary Beth. She has been one of our favorite people on the Chicago food scene for a long time. We genuinely like her. It is unfortunate that her staff did not live up to her example.
Overall, the meal had the feeling of aiming for competence, rather than aiming for spectacular. Our main waiter was "Chris." I know his name only because I heard people at the next table (a loud and obnoxious couple who filled the room with their wit and intelligence -- or at least they seemed to think they did) repeatedly refer to him by name. Chris seemed to have certain views of the food, but also did not seem inclined to share those views or the basis for any of his views. His recommendations rarely went beyond "This is very good." I got the impression that he either just didn't care about the food, or he just didn't care to share his knowledge with us. He brought to mind a lyric from a horrible song -- "The Piano Man." We had the distinct impression that there was someplace that he'd rather be. He seemed to have a sound understanding of food and wine, but he also just didn't seem to care about it.
In any case, the meal started with an interesting amuse, and unfortunately, declined course by course. The amuse featured three dishes. One was unmemorable. Writing less than two hours after consuming it, I can't tell you what it was. However, the second and third (a filled cheese pastry and a chestnut soup) were exceptional.
For a first course, I had scallops. Very nice. My wife had a selection of pates, which was interesting and also very good. For the second course, I had a cauliflower soup, while my wife had a salad. Good, but not exceptional. The soup was a bit thin for my taste, but nonetheless, there was flavor. For the third course, I went with a Loup De Mare, while my wife went with salmon. My fish seemed to lack taste. It was a nice piece of fish, but not all that interesting. My wife's salmon had a very nice sauce, but was cooked longer that I would have cooked it.
For the main course, my wife went with venison. Good, but nothing special. I went with a rack of lamb. Again, nothing special.
For dessert, we both had soufflés. I went with a passion fruit, while my wife went with a Grand Mariner. Again, both were nice but we've had better.
Overall, the impression of Les Nomades was of competence. This seemed to be crew that wanted a "B" grade, and did not want to make any sacrifice that may cause the B to slip to a C. I was looking for food and service that was enthusiastic, interesting, and at least slightly creative, but got "competent." It was a wonderful meal, but not memorable.
Although nothing was screwed up, nothing was exceptional. The server did not seem to particularly care about the food (he was technically proficient but completely unenthusiastic and uninspired) and the kitchen turned out very nice food. Not a single dish caused me to say "I must return for this."
Finally, a note on the clientele: Admittedly, we went out on an extremely cold night, so the place was relatively empty. However, the crowd in the place skewed slightly older (nothing wrong with that) but did so in a way that the crowd seemed to share the staff's view. They were nicely dressed and spoke too loud and wore fur. This was not the creative set. I felt like I was dining with a bunch of slightly trashed senior accountants.
The room is still beautiful, and the owner, Mary Beth, remains charming. However, Les Nomades seemingly has little else to offer. It may be a nice choice for people unfamilar with high end cuisine. At that price point, I want something that will wow me. I want genuine enthusiasm about the food. Any day of the week, I will take the young, apparently less trained but very enthusiastic staff of a place like Capische over the very well trained but dull staff of Les Nomades.