I think it's unfortunate (but probably not surprising) that ratings are subject to inflation.

But if we want to be the restaurant town we think we are, we have to support the efforts of small but serious independent restaurants, from our Copperblues to our Aigre Doux.

A good reviewer should be able to make the case that "small but serious independent restaurants" are worth visiting by writing well about them, not by just lobbing another star on. Critics in all arts are responsible for framing their domain in a way that helps people make decisions based on more than just a star rating.

In fact, this seems more important than ever now that the internet is threatening all professional critics with irrelevance.

Everyone's focusing on the next-to-last sentence instead of the last sentence, which to me is the true atrocity in that review.

GAF wrote:I love and admire all restauranteurs, including AD's Mohammad Islam and Malika Ameen, just as I love and admire my C students, but I don't give them As because I want Northwestern to become Harvard.

Wish I knew how to needlepoint.

Vettel's difficulty is that he attempts to be an advocate rather than an arbiter. If readers gain that sense, he loses whatever cultural authority he might have.

Part of the problem with the comparison to the grand Pauline Kael is that she was championing a genre (or vision) of filmmaking - not all that different from Ruth Reichl when she was at the Times. One could imagine this argument if Vettel were championing, say, Molecular Cuisine. But the type of restaurant must succeed on its own terms. A three star restaurant must be three-star worthy on some dimension. Aigre Doux is a pleasant restaurant, but not a distinguished restaurant; it is not a three star restaurant in its own style of cuisine. Vettel seems to be plumping for Chicago restaurants in general.

Gary, you'll always get a gentleman's A from me - needlepoint or bbq smoking.

I know some people are having trouble understanding Vettel's unique language. Luckily, I took a couple years of vettelese in college, so let me give it a shot.

Vettel wrote:I really want Aigre Doux to make it big.

Translation wrote:I will give Aigre Doux a good review unless the chef defecates on my plate, and even then, it'll get a star.

Vettel wrote:But if we want to be the restaurant town we think we are, we have to support the efforts of small but serious independent restaurants, from our Copperblues to our Aigre Doux.

Translation wrote:If we don't over-rate 1-2 star restaurants, we won't get more of them, and then Chicago won't be a town full of over-rated restaurants.

Vettel wrote:That last phrase rhymes, by the way.

Translation wrote:I am a colossal tool, and I think my readers are idiots.

Now, now.

Vettel wrote:That last phrase rhymes, by the way.

Translation wrote:I am a colossal tool, and I think my readers are idiots.

This is a mistranslation of Vettelese. The accurate translation is:

I need a new editor. Now.

You know, it's about time there was an airing of grievances about Vettel. For as wonderful as a food town this is, it really is a joke that he is one of the two primary reviewers (Pat Bruno being the other, who isn't a whole lot better IMO).

A very good friend of mine worked as a server in a number of the better restaurants in town and he would tell me Phil Vettel stories. Apparently, everyone knows who he is, he doesn't take all that much effort to remain anonymous, and even when he's eating at a restaurant he's more than willing to offer over the top praise (apparently they guy likes just about anything that takes a minimal amount of effort to put together).

Also, I went back and looked at the most recent "Recently Reviewed" section online. Four restaurants are listed (Cafe Matou, DeLaCosta, Meiji, Sequel). All received 3 stars (shocking!). The one before that:

11 restaurants
2 stars - 6 (Chicago Firehouse, Entourage, Ginger Asian Bistro, Graze, Koda, Zocalo)
3 stars - 4 (Cafe Matou, DeLaCosta, Niche, Sequel)
3.5 stars - 1 (NoMi)

Grade inflation? You be the judge.

But if we want to be the restaurant town we think we are, we have to support the efforts of small but serious independent restaurants, from our Croftons on Wells to our Taco Bells.

I just remembered that you can post comments on the Tribune food blog -- who wants to throw down the gauntlet publicly?


I nominate Ed, I'm sure he'll persuade Mr. Vettel with rhetoric like the above.


More seriously, though, I wonder if he can be civilly engaged on the subject, or if it's just not worth it.

I just received the May issue of Chicago Magazine, their Best New Restaurants issue. Dennis Ray Wheaton and Jeff Ruby name Mohammed Islam as the Best New Chef. Congratulations, Chef. However, the two photos I posted were dishes from your kitchen. Someone should be checking plates before they are served.

Dudley Nieto's Xel-Ha is the labeled best new restaurant. Granted this is not 2006 when Alinea and Schwa led the pack. But good wishes to Aigre Doux, Blu Coral, Chalkboard, Chiyo, DeLaCosta, Erba, Ginger Asian Bistro, Habana Libre, Koda, Marigold, Mulan, Niche, Osteria di Tramonto, Sage Grille, Sam & Harry's, Sequel, Sol de Mexico, Tay Do, Tepatulco, Tramonto's Steak and Seafood, and Xel-Ha.

Anyone - other than PV - wish to make a case for three stars?

What a bunch of hooey. To read Vettel's review, you get the sense that Aigre Doux is a lovable underdog that needs our support. When in reality, as we saw through their not so lovable shilling campaign, they are well financed and well represented at least on the PR front. I mean for pete's sake, it was one of the selections for Time Out's Good Eating awards, yet had empty cases two months ago.

Perhaps I would root from them too, if I hadn't had such an unbelievably ordinary and vastly overpriced meal there. I'd go into detail, but I don't even remember it.

The restaurant would be far better off with people walking in and not expecting such high execution. They are still too fresh to be completely definitive but my experience was along the lines of GAF. That said, I can not see why I would return on my own volition.

GAF wrote:Anyone - other than PV - wish to make a case for three stars?

Based on the spectacular dinner I had there, yes, absolutely.

nsxtasy wrote:

GAF wrote:Anyone - other than PV - wish to make a case for three stars?

Based on the spectacular dinner I had there, yes, absolutely.

Well then perhaps it would be beneficial to judge what your definition of spectacular is...what other spots would you put at the level that you judge Aigre to be??

mkiss wrote:[W]hat other spots would you put at the level that you judge Aigre to be??

Pour yourself a beer and pull up a chair...

E.M.

petit pois went for the Niman Ranch burger on a brioche bun.

Ohmygosh! It comes back to me! Now I remember what I ate. The absurdly, over priced and over cooked burger! I just went to the website and how convenient that they fail to list the price of the offending burger. Please understand, I love burgers - the most recent Time Out listing the best of the categories of burgers was my favorite issue. Accordingly, I'm a giant sucker, particularly for a very expensive burger. Aigre Doux's was AWFUL. In fact, I scared the be-jesus out of a friend of mine who's opening a gastropub with my description of the awfulness of this burger. (No flavor, terrible, overcooked texture). Now, I know why I had so blocked the meal out of my consciousness.

mkiss wrote:

nsxtasy wrote:

GAF wrote:Anyone - other than PV - wish to make a case for three stars?

Based on the spectacular dinner I had there, yes, absolutely.

Well then perhaps it would be beneficial to judge what your definition of spectacular is...what other spots would you put at the level that you judge Aigre to be??

To the contrary of Erik's rude reply, there are not many places I would put at the same level in the "casual fine dining" genre that Aigre Doux plays in. (To clarify what I mean by this genre, I don't think it's fair to compare Aigre Doux to more elaborate places like Alinea or Avenues.) Similar places that I would put at that same level? One Sixty Blue, absolutely. Oceanique, in Evanston. Michael, in Winnetka. I've eaten at a lot of those casual fine dining places, and these are the only three that I can recall off the top of my head where I have had similarly superb meals, where every bite of every dish was worth swooning over.

Truthfully, I think that there are huge number of places that fall within the category of what Aigre Doux seeks to be. To name a few:

Blackbird
Avec
Bistro Campagne
Lula
Butter
North Pond
Topolobampo
Salpicon
Naha
May Street Market
Timo and John's new place
Spring
Green Zebra
Custom House
Copper Blue
Vie
312

There are a ton of places like this. Why in the world does our paid critical community feel the need to drop to their knees for this? I recall something in the press remarking how celebrities were all a ga ga about their stuff, but who truly believes in the palate of our celebrity culture today?

Truthfully, mkiss raises the best point:
The restaurant would be far better off with people walking in and not expecting such high execution. They are still too fresh to be completely definitive but my experience was along the lines of GAF. That said, I can not see why I would return on my own volition

They would have been far better off, given their bank roll, opening, developing the trust of the public and then really pushing the press to provide them the accolades.

nsxtasy wrote:

mkiss wrote:

nsxtasy wrote:

GAF wrote:Anyone - other than PV - wish to make a case for three stars?

Based on the spectacular dinner I had there, yes, absolutely.

Well then perhaps it would be beneficial to judge what your definition of spectacular is...what other spots would you put at the level that you judge Aigre to be??

To the contrary of Erik's rude reply, there are not many places I would put at the same level in the "casual fine dining" genre that Aigre Doux plays in. (To clarify what I mean by this genre, I don't think it's fair to compare Aigre Doux to more elaborate places like Alinea or Avenues.) Similar places that I would put at that same level? One Sixty Blue, absolutely. Oceanique, in Evanston. Michael, in Winnetka. I've eaten at a lot of those casual fine dining places, and these are the only three that I can recall off the top of my head where I have had similarly superb meals, where every bite of every dish was worth swooning over.

OK...I ate at 160 Blue 2 years ago and put that meal far above Aigre. It is hard to judge a restaurant on one meal but AD did not have any wow moments for me.

MAG wrote:Truthfully, I think that there are huge number of places that fall within the category of what Aigre Doux seeks to be. To name a few:

Blackbird
Avec
Bistro Campagne
Lula
Butter
North Pond
Topolobampo
Salpicon
Naha
May Street Market
Timo and John's new place
Spring
Green Zebra
Custom House
Copper Blue
Vie
312

There are a ton of places like this. Why in the world does our paid critical community feel the need to drop to their knees for this? I recall something in the press remarking how celebrities were all a ga ga about their stuff, but who truly believes in the palate of our celebrity culture today?

The question concerning the paid critical community may be paid by or influenced by whom ?? Most of the restaurants that I have eaten at on your list, I would rate at a completely different level than AD, except May Street Market. I actually would put my experiences at both at about the same level.

mkiss wrote:

MAG wrote:Truthfully, I think that there are huge number of places that fall within the category of what Aigre Doux seeks to be....

....Most of the restaurants that I have eaten at on your list, I would rate at a completely different level than AD, except May Street Market. I actually would put my experiences at both at about the same level.

As much from reputation as experience, I too think of that list as some pretty solid three star examples (Blackbird, NAHA, North Pond, Topolobambo) along with some good two stars (Bistro Campagne, Avec). Stars are in my mind, not meant to represent Vettel.

The question is, largely I think, what's the difference between two and three stars. In Vettel's reviews, and in my own experience, it seems to largely be one of ambition (esp. price point and formality) as much as food quality.

I found it interesting that MAG said "seeks to be" rather than "is."

If Aigre Doux is trying to compete with the 3-stars, but it falls short, do you still give it 2 stars? If so, is it fair to put it on the same level as a place shooting for the 2-star experience and hitting it right on? I'm not sure, but my guess is I'd be a lot happier at a 2-star place that I knew was playing in that field, and was exemplary in fulfillment of its ambition, than a 2-star place that was a wanna-be 3-star.

Not sure how you make that distinction in the star rating system.

Aaron Deacon wrote:
As much from reputation as experience, I too think of that list as some pretty solid three star examples (Blackbird, NAHA, North Pond, Topolobambo) along with some good two stars (Bistro Campagne, Avec). Stars are in my mind, not meant to represent Vettel.

If Aigre Doux is trying to compete with the 3-stars, but it falls short, do you still give it 2 stars? If so, is it fair to put it on the same level as a place shooting for the 2-star experience and hitting it right on? I'm not sure, but my guess is I'd be a lot happier at a 2-star place that I knew was playing in that field, and was exemplary in fulfillment of its ambition, than a 2-star place that was a wanna-be 3-star.

Not sure how you make that distinction in the star rating system.

Based on how AD was portrayed prior to the doors opening, they want to be in your grouping of the three stars. Do I rate it with your examples of the 2 stars...no...I for one would rather eat at Avec by far than AD. If I went into AD without hearing any of the accolades what would I have thought, well again and to be fair I STRESS off my one meal, not much. What would it take for me to give it another go, someone that I align my taste with giving it the love, otherwise no.

MAG wrote:Truthfully, I think that there are huge number of places that fall within the category of what Aigre Doux seeks to be. To name a few:

Blackbird
Avec
Bistro Campagne
Lula
Butter
North Pond
Topolobampo
Salpicon
Naha
May Street Market
Timo and John's new place
Spring
Green Zebra
Custom House
Copper Blue
Vie
312

There are a ton of places like this.

Yup. That's the group I refer to as "casual fine dining". In the same group, just to name a few more, I would add

One Sixty Blue
mk
Sola
Sweets and Savories
Cuatro
Scylla
Meritage

Depending on how you're defining the group, I might (or might not) also add certain upscale ethnic places - specifically, French places like Cafe Matou, Kiki's Bistro, and Bistro 110, Italian places like Coco Pazzo and Cafe Spiaggia, and Mexican places like Adobo Grill (and the previously mentioned Topolobampo and Salpicon). I generally don't include steakhouses because they are a separate genre. Seafood restaurants (e.g. Shaw's, Hugo's, Fulton's) may or may not fit, depending on how you define the genre.

I see your list and I raise you my list.

jesteinf wrote:Also, I went back and looked at the most recent "Recently Reviewed" section online. Four restaurants are listed (Cafe Matou, DeLaCosta, Meiji, Sequel). All received 3 stars (shocking!). The one before that:

11 restaurants
2 stars - 6 (Chicago Firehouse, Entourage, Ginger Asian Bistro, Graze, Koda, Zocalo)
3 stars - 4 (Cafe Matou, DeLaCosta, Niche, Sequel)
3.5 stars - 1 (NoMi)

Grade inflation? You be the judge.

My recollection is that PV didn't "used to be like that." Years ago, it was a somewhat rarity that he rated a restaurant with three stars. Now, every restaurant with a somewhat pedigreed chef gets 3. As a result, I find myself ignoring most of his three star reviews, which for me, translate to over-priced and over-amibitious restaurants that serve more misses than hits. Oddly, I'd rather go to the restaurants he rates with two stars. Why? Because they serve straightforward food, are not trying to be something they're not, and usually hit the mark every time. (Cite: Avec and West Town Tavern, two of my favorites.)

aschie30 wrote:My recollection is that PV didn't "used to be like that." Years ago, it was a somewhat rarity that he rated a restaurant with three stars. Now, every restaurant with a somewhat pedigreed chef gets 3.

If that's true, then it would support my sense that once a high-visibility food reviewer becomes enmeshed in the "food community" of a town, it becomes harder to slam the big names because, you know, you might run into them at a benefit or cocktail party.

FWIW, since this thread is persisting I went back and looked at Vettel's review again.

Despite the unfortunate constructions at the beginning and end, there's nothing else in his review itself that specifically indicates "inflation."

That said, I haven't read a lot of his other reviews any time recently. Maybe he says similar things about places he rates lower. But he really liked everything he had at AD. So maybe there's less controversy than it appeared?

As has been noted before, the review could have benefitted from the attention of an editor. I wonder what vetting process the Trib uses for its blogs relative to its print copy.

My issue isn't that he gave AD 3 stars. I haven't been there so I don't have any opinion. My issue is that he gives too many restaurants 3 stars.

jesteinf wrote:My issue isn't that he gave AD 3 stars. I haven't been there so I don't have any opinion. My issue is that he gives too many restaurants 3 stars.

Is it possible that more of the places opening recently are better than those in the past, so that more places nowadays deserve more stars than in the past? (Or should he "grade on a curve"?)

Keep in mind that 3 stars is not the top rating, and not many places receive 4 or even 3.5.

It's possible, but I also don't agree with a number of 3-star ratings that he's given (from the lists I posted up-thread Meiji was his biggest miss by far, that place is 2 stars on a good night).

Didn't Metromix used to have a search feature where you could search by star ratings? I'd be curious to look at the full list of 3 stars to get more perspective.

In any event, I wouldn't mind seeing a few "bad" reviews, just to make sure Phil doesn't go gaga over everything and anything a restaurant puts in front of him.

ETA - Let's also keep in mind how the stars are defined...

1 = Good
2 = Very good
3 = Excellent
4 = Outstanding

Now, I know some people around here have different definitions of excellent, but shouldn't there be a lot more 1 and 2 star places then 3 and 4? I find it hard to believe that every freaking restaurant that opens is "Excellent" within 2 months.