First, thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Nothing like stepping off the train with 3 pages of posts printed out. How lucky I am to have bought a bike in such a great food neighborhood.
My first stop was Ba Le. What a great little shop. I went with the sausage and lemongrass sandwich, which was $3 including tax. I wasn't blown away by the sausage, but as a whole entity, the sandwich was quite good. Except for the very first bite, which was basically a mouthful of bread and cilantro, it was well put together. The bread was wonderfully crusty -- just the perfect sandwich bread. It seems to simple to make a basic roll like this, so why are so many of these kinds of rolls so mediocre? I was sorely tempted to get a little container of beef jerky. They have a few varieties, but the one that looked best had big dried red pepper seeds all over it. Agh, should have gotten it.
I only ate about half the sandwich so that I could give Thai Avenue a try. Again, a really lovely space, simple but pleasant. Based on the photo from
this post, I had a hankering for some fried chicken. What a thing of beauty. I took it to go, along with a serving of papaya salad, and ate in a nearby park. (Eating there would have been fine, even alone, but I just don't like to do it.)
I'd gone through 2 and a half pieces of the chicken and was thoroughly enjoying them before poking around deeper in the bag and finding a little plastic cup filled with hot sauce. I won't make that mistake again next time. The chicken is fantastic on its own, highly crispy with generous chunks of meat, but the sauce adds serious flavor. I thought it was slightly sweet and nicely spicy, although by no means fiery, and kind of grainy -- in that Thai sauce kind of way.
As for the papaya salad, the woman taking my order asked me how hot I wanted it. At first I said "very hot," and then remembering VI's use of the word "blistering" (which can be nice, but I wanted to judge it on flavor, not just heat, at least this time out), and said something like, "Well, not too spicy." Then I got scared that she'd think I wanted it bland, and raised my hand flat, just above my forehead and said, "You know, not all the way to the top spicy, but hot. I like it hot." The result of all of that exertion was a higher-than-medium-but-not-mouth-burning salad. It was good, but didn't knock my socks off. I guess papaya salad always has a "sauce," but the best I've had seem to have a thinner, more dressing-like sauce, where this one was a little thick, which I think detracts from the refreshing crunchiness of the papaya.
Again, thanks for the reccomendations, and I'll definitely be back to try more of them. What a great neighborhood.