if you're a times select subscriber there's also a nice article
here:
it includes a quote from one my favorite food writing anywhere on the satisfaction that accompanies eating good chaat
"In that state of beatitude the Maharashtrians stop being surly, the Marwaris look at the millions of stars without being reminded of their own millions, the Sindhis admire the horizon without any intention of selling it, the Gujaratis speculate on the moon instead of the scrips they should have sold, the North Indians dream of things other than Hindi as the official language of the United Nations, and even the Parsi ladies stop nagging their husbands."
-Ganghadar Gopal Gadgil