Bertucci's: Old School Italian American [Pictures]

LTH,

I've been to Bertucci's any number of times over the years, though more for the bar which has a comfortable smooth edge feel. Food wise Bertucci's has always been fine though on a pleasant evening last week I was taken by surprise. Maybe it was the weather, company or the fact I had a pair of Negroni's before dinner, but I found the food an exemplar of Chicago style Old School Italian American.

We were led a somewhat circuitous route to the pleasant non-smoking back dining room, which I did not know existed, and settled in with our waitress Pat, a pure distillation of the best qualities one could want in an waitress, in a been-there done-that sort of way. I bet she was a real hell-cat a decade or so ago.

We started with smelt, meaty little bastards with a feather light coating. I really liked the accompanying tarter sauce, I almost think it house-made, but I did not ask for confirmation.

Smelt


Loaf of crusty Italian bread, herb flavored olive for dipping was very nice, house salads fin, a simple mix of iceberg, peperoncini, out of season tomato and an olive or two, I had 1000 Island from a bottle, minestrone soup with a couple of types of beans and chunks of diced veg looked good, but I did not have a taste. We split for the table an order of rapini with sausage. Rapini was perfectly cooked with it's characteristic bitter edge softened by the sausage and good quality olive oil.

Rapini w/Italian sausage


There were a number of chalkboard specials, I went with Baccala with mostaccioli which I thought quite good. I liked the slightly resilient texture of the cod, but though the taste slightly mild. I would have liked a bit more punch/fish/salt to the baccala (dried salt cod) itself.

Baccalla w/mostaccioli


Linguini with Calamari had a similar tomato sauce as baccalla, which I liked as it did not fall into the Italian American cliché of sweet/sweet with acidic highlights and was well balanced with still recognizable chunks of plum tomato in the mix.

Linguini w/calamari


Gnocchi with escarole and sausage may have been my favorite dish, next to the smelt, of the evening. Toothsome gnocchi, which these were, are my preference over the pillow-light variety. When I make gnocchi at home I take the extra step of pan frying crisp, which Bertucci's were not.

Gnocchi w/escarole and sausage


Chicken Carlo (Lightly breaded, sauteed w/mushrooms, artichoke hearts, romano and lemons) was very rich, a little over the top for me, though 4/5 thought it a winner.

Chicken Carlo


A chalkboard special of Sicilian Veal speaks to Dicksons question nicely, crisp perfectly fried veal complimented by cottage fries and rapini.

Sicilian Veal


We capped off a pleasant evening with a leisurely drink at the bar. I'll be back soon and, next time, not just for the comfortable bar.

Bertucci's


Pat, Patty


I am resisting making a comment on Bertucci's signage.


A few additional pictures may be found here

Enjoy,
Gary

Bertucci's
300 W 24th St
Chicago, IL 60616
312-225-2848

Is t his related to the Bertucci's in Highwood?

Great spot before a Sox game. the parking in the hood can be tough but worth the effort. The veal and the smelts were outstanding on my last visit. I think we had an outstanding stuffed carchofe (sp?) also

Babaluch

LAM026 wrote:Is t his related to the Bertucci's in Highwood?

This question pops up every once in a while. So far there has never been a connection made between the two restaurants beyond their names.

FYI - Bertucci's in Highwood has changed their name from Bertucci's to Papagallo (sp?), then back to Bertucci's some years ago.

Regards,

babaluch wrote: the parking in the hood can be tough but worth the effort.

On a previous visit, they recommended we park in the school lot across the street on Princeton. Apparently they have some arrangement with the school. Still, knowing how these things can change, I'd inquire before parking there.

Time Out Chicago Bertucci's Corner, Save the Restaurant

At Bertucci’s last week, we had a very uneven experience, but one of the high points was the rolled eggplant:



I may be on a bit of an eggplant jag, but I became quite enamored of this dish during my brief encounter with it. The lightly breaded and crisp veg, stuffed with fluffy cheese, sauced and cheesed, with a chianti, really good.