So with all the talk in the "
good sushi options" thread I had the opportunity to grab a late dinner at Mirai this evening. There's no dedicated Mirai thread so now is as good a time as any to start one.
My experience at Mirai tonight is best told in three parts. In fact, it had all the makings of a classic tragedy: an exposition ripe with unsettling foreshadowing, a moment where it seemed all misgivings were for naught, and an unfortunate conclusion that at once seemed avoidable yet completely predictable.
So I'm being somewhat overly dramatic, but it's only because I think this place has the chops to be good. Unfortunately, it falls noticeably short on a variety levels, from the execution of the food to the tact of the staff.
Part I
I showed up a little after 10 PM to a sushi bar that was about 1/3 full. I had called ahead a few minutes before just to give them warning and they said it wouldn't be a problem. Service bungle number one was seating me right next to the sushi pass where servers were constantly congregating. It just wasn't a particularly pleasant place to sit with John-the-artist-cum-waiter hovering right behind me asking the itamae which table had the roll covered with sweet eel sauce versus the roll with the spicy mayonnaise sauce. Not a huge deal, but there were plenty of other seats open.
I also happened to be sitting right in front of the roll fabrication section. Now I'm not one to judge the quality of a cook's work by his or her race or ethnicity--white, yellow, black or brown, if you can cook, you can cook and I certainly realize Hispanic line cooks make the food in probably 85% of the restaurants in this country--but the respect for the product really was not evident in my experience. The fish cooler was terribly unorganized, fish and copious amounts of prepack eel and [gasp] krab stick were being haphazardly flung around. The two gentlemen I was sitting in front hardly effused authenticity or inspired confidence.
So whatevs, the place doesn't seem ideal but at least there's no Chicago Fire Roll. Unfortunately, there's not much else either. The selection of fish was totally disappointing. Only two types of white fish, snapper and fluke! No yellowtail derivatives, no scallop, no mackerel, only blue fin tuna. They were "out" of uni, the snapper, and mirugai. I don't blame them for this since I came so late in the night, but the fish selection was rather slim on the whole.
And to sum up Part I, an exchange between the gentleman sitting next to me and one of the itamae:
Guy [after date gets up to go to bathroom]: So, where did the sushi chef BJ go?
Itamae: You mean BK, I think. He left about six months ago.
Guy: Oh.
[Couple minutes pass]
Guy: Do you know where BJ went, what restaurant?
Itamae: BK. I think he went to some hotel downtown.
Guy: Right, BK. A BJ is what I'm going to be getting later. [cue smarmy laugh]
Oh man.
Part II
After running through the menu with my waitress I made my selection. After telling me they were out of uni, I asked her if she was sure. She was. I asked her to check with the chef. She assured me they were out. Uni is one of my favorite foods but if they're out, they're out. I tried to forget about it.
First, I received a gratis spicy tuna roll. A nice gesture I thought, since I was a single diner and sometimes kitchens like to do that kind of thing. I wouldn't order it myself but it wasn't bad at all either. It then becomes clear that this roll was not for me (I had thought they just made an extra and sent it my way). The waitress comes over and says, "Oh my mistake, that wasn't supposed to be yours." The sushi chef comes over a few seconds later and says, "Oh yeah, that was supposed to be for the guy next to you." Okay, I get it. If a restaurant makes a mistake like that, its staff isn't supposed to make you feel like they're doing you a favor. Stated differently, the guest shouldn't be made to feel uncomfortable for receiving an item that wasn't intended for him or her, especially if it's something as trivial as a spicy tuna roll. It almost felt like they were blaming me for taking it. Just a poor example of service recovery.
Next was the king crab nigiri. Like crab, a bit of mayo, some lemon, and spices. I was unimpressed. The crab flavor didn't shine and the nori was soft. I hate soft, cheap nori.
Then I had the monkfish liver wrapped in octopus with ponzu. A nice dish in thought, contrasting textures and all, but not executed all that well. The quality of octopus wasn't great and was sliced much to thickly. The idea, I think, is for the octopus to give the dish a bit of chew to foil the creamy liver. Instead the octopus was too thick and texturally assertive such that it overpowered the delicate liver.
I should note the tea now. First of all, it comes in an ugly, foil-sealed packet with a little tea bag inside. Lame. It also comes in a Western-style teacup with a handle and all. Lamer. Given the way it was served it crossed my mind they might try to charge me for this tea. In the end, they did. Totally lame. The tea wasn't even good. I've never heard of a high-end Japanese restaurant charging for generic tea before. Total crap.
So now the part of the story that almost redeemed the restaurants somewhat numerous shortcomings. The sushi I ordered was actually quite good. The rice was a bit meh, the quality/size of the grains a bit too large, but the fish was solid. Again the selection sucked but what I did have was quite nice. The otoro was more like chutoro-plus, but it was still damn tasty. The chutoro was more assertive in flavor so I liked it more. Two types of fresh eel were on offer in addition to the precooked vacuum stuff from Taiwan. In all, I had two pieces of chutoro, one otoro, one botan ebi, one sake, and one of each of the eels. I was actually pleasantly surprised with the quality of the fish itself. At this point in the meal I was marginally satisfied but tragedy was brewing.
Part III
So just a couple minutes after finishing up and getting my bill I overhear a couple sitting a ways down the sushi bar ask about uni. They happen to be seated in front of one of the real itamae, as opposed to my roll drones, and received two wonderful pieces. Needless to say I was a bit perturbed given how much I wanted it earlier and how emphatically my server assured me they were out without checking with the chef like I asked her to. Just then, she comes back and says something like, "Well I hope you enjoyed everything. Hopefully we'll have some uni the next time you come." I then direct her eyes to the itamae. She tells me it's the king crab mixture. I tell her to look again. She does, she asks the chef, and is like "Oh well, sorry." This is what really left a bad taste in my mouth. A good example of service recovery would involve her asking the itamae to make me a quick piece before I left as an apology for not following through earlier. Of course, no such recourse was offered. Between that and seeing the charge for the tea my former state of relative satiation was replaced by a sense of overall annoyance with the restaurant. After tax, tip, and a beer, It was like $65 or something. Not all that expensive in the sushi picture but I didn't feel like it was a particularly good value for the experience. The prices per piece are pretty cheap if we're talking purely dollars though.
So yeah, this place is alright but it's certainly not good. They have pretty solid fish but fall short in just about everything else. There's not a lot of care that goes into the food, from the disorganization in the cooler to the way the fish is sliced and handled.
My quest for a fulfilling Chicago sushi experience must continue on.