The Arsenal of Secret Weapons

A while back I read somewhere-- it may have been here-- that a shot of red wine or sherry vinegar at the end of the cooking process is a chef "trick" (not really a trick, unless salting is too) for sharpening up the flavor of lots of things-- soups, sauces, vegetables and so on. The idea is never so much that you taste "Hmm, vinegar," just enough that the acid bite adds definition to the flavors that are already there, like an Unsharp Mask filter.

That's the kind of thing I love to know about, and I've already put it to use successfully, believe me. Little tips for getting from B+ to A with a dish like that, I love knowing that stuff. I'm sure this is the oldest of old hats to professional chefs, but to us amateurs, it's one of those "aha" moments that explains everything.

Another one I use frequently, since I'm probably a better, or at least more methodical, dessert cook than anything else: vanilla sugar. I think I learned about this from the Patricia Wells-Joel Robuchon book but I'm sure it's very old. The idea is, when you have a vanilla bean, you bury it like the sets for the '23 Ten Commandments in a jar of sugar. If you're going to use a fresh one within a week or two, you can bury it and it won't dry out that fast, then dig it out when it's time to use it. If you won't use it that soon, you should keep the fresh ones sealed but after you use one, you can take the seedless husk and bury it in the sugar indefinitely. The vanilla bean, even seedless, will perfume the sugar with a subtle, complex vanilla flavor.


The worms are the spice.

Use this stuff in anything that calls for sugar and vanilla and you will get a much richer and more flowery vanilla flavor than using plain sugar and vanilla extract alone. (Eventually the bean will dry out, and if it breaks in there when you're digging it out it will leave black specks of itself in your sugar which you probably don't want, purely for visual reasons, so it makes sense to dig it out after a few months and replace it with the next one.) I've kept vanilla sugar on hand for years and everything I've used it in has been improved by it.

What's your secret weapon?

Probably one of the best weapons I have is hardware: my microplane grater. I've got two of them so far, each with its own shape and usefulness. One does zest great, one does parmesan cheese extremely well, but the real secret is garlic and ginger.

Hold peeled cloves by the root end and make a fine paste, smoother than mincing or pressed. Ginger works the same way. This fine a paste isn't for everything: it burns too fast in a sautee, but for an intense salad dressing, this can't be beat for garlic. For indian food where the garlic and ginger are added after the onions are sauteed down, this works very well.

Of course, sometimes my family and guests are treated to a little skin or fingernail... but the flavor is worth it.

-ramon

HI,

I was doing the vanilla stored in the sugar canister idea back in jr. high school. My problem was my maternal Grandmother kept tossing them away, which was an expensive habit.

Thanks for the reminder to get some vanilla beans!

Regards,

Brown butter. As a novice in the kitchen, the magic of brown butter, and its many uses, just blew my mind. Still does.

Another eye-opening experience I had was taking Antonius' recommendation for lightly browning the meat for a bolognese. Lightly browning anything was completely unheard of to me, but the difference in the overall texture and flavour of the product was astounding.

I don't think this will be much of a revelation to any experienced cook, but my secret is cured anchovy.

There are quite a few dishes that I used minced anchovy as a base flavoring agent. The fillets, when minced, melt into hot fat and provide a roundness of flavor (especially when balanced against a bit of acid) and upgrade the umami of simple, light dishes.

People who claim to hate anchovy (or fish) will never identify the ingredient.

Best,
Michael

There are quite a few dishes that I used minced anchovy as a base flavoring agent.

My boyfriend's secret ingredient is often anchovy. It's excellent in pesto!

eatchicago wrote:I don't think this will be much of a revelation to any experienced cook, but my secret is cured anchovy.

Not to steal the thread here, but a number of recipes I've been reading recently have called for salt-packed anchovies. The only thing I have been able to find is the oil-packed variety. This is true even at places I expect to have a wide-ranging canned seafood selection like Garden Fresh Markets.

Is there a significant difference to salt vs oil packed? Anyone know where to get the ones in the white stuff?

I use quite a bit of these two Jamaican Spice blends.


The Garlic and Allspice one makes a fantastic dry rub for meats. It does contain salt, which for some reason is not listed as an ingredient. The listed ingredients are: Garlic, Chives, Pimento and "spices".

The baking spice is great for pies, molasses bread, sweet potatoes and baked apples. I also use it in making apple chutney and carrot soup. The ingredients are corriander, cinnamon, anise and nutmeg.

gastro gnome wrote:

eatchicago wrote:I don't think this will be much of a revelation to any experienced cook, but my secret is cured anchovy.

Not to steal the thread here, but a number of recipes I've been reading recently have called for salt-packed anchovies. The only thing I have been able to find is the oil-packed variety. This is true even at places I expect to have a wide-ranging canned seafood selection like Garden Fresh Markets.

Is there a significant difference to salt vs oil packed? Anyone know where to get the ones in the white stuff?

I've seen them, but can't put my finger on where I've seen them...consider checking the fresh seafood department of Whole Foods (they might be in one of the nearby displays) and/or an Italian grocery (maybe L'Appetito).

Not to steal the thread here, but a number of recipes I've been reading recently have called for salt-packed anchovies. The only thing I have been able to find is the oil-packed variety. This is true even at places I expect to have a wide-ranging canned seafood selection like Garden Fresh Markets.

Is there a significant difference to salt vs oil packed? Anyone know where to get the ones in the white stuff?

I think they have them at the Marketplace on Oakton in Skokie. You might want to check.

4817 Oakton St
Skokie, IL 60077
(847) 677-1094

Most or all of the places mentioned here:

http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=10525

gastro gnome wrote:Is there a significant difference to salt vs oil packed? Anyone know where to get the ones in the white stuff?

Fox & Obel in the fish department.

Great idea for a thread, Mike! I'm not sure if my tricks are really secrets, but here goes:

To improve the taste of not-quite-in-season berries (without adding alcohol-- Grand Marnier is very nice if you want that kick) sprinkle on a little rosewater. If the berries are really pretty disappointing, melt a tablespoon or so of jam of the same berry flavor, mix the rosewater into it, and lightly coat the washed, dried berries until they give up a bit of juice.

To improve a fruit pie, add a judicious amount of jam to the fresh fruit filling. Even if you match the fresh fruit and the jam, chances are the fruit involved in the jam is of a different variety than the one you bought fresh. This just broadens the flavor of the fruit.

I particularly like an apple pie with added apple butter. Ginger preserve is good in a peach or a pear pie. Mmmmm!

You know, I just re-read the first post, and realized that you are asking for tricks, not necessarily favorite ingredients. So, here is one for you. I drop my meatballs into simmering water for about 15 seconds (until they float to the surface), before I fry them. It keeps them from flattening out and becoming meat cubes in the frying pan. I don't know if that is a common practice or not.

I seem to remember seeing salt cured anchovies at Bari Foods on Grand

I think we've mentioned this in another thread, but I keep vermouth on hand to use whenever a recipe calls for a small amount of dry white wine. I hate to open a bottle just for a half a cup of wine for a recipe -- and it isn't always practical to drink the rest. Vermouth, a fortified wine, keeps indefinitely, unlike wine, and adds a light herbal character I enjoy. Sometimes I use dry sherry instead, but its stronger flavor isn't always appropriate.

I keep vermouth on hand to use whenever a recipe calls for a small amount of dry white wine. I hate to open a bottle just for a half a cup of wine for a recipe -- and it isn't always practical to drink the rest. Vermouth, a fortified wine, keeps indefinitely, unlike wine, and adds a light herbal character I enjoy.

(my first post!) That's interesting. Having just gotten into JC's first Mastering, and having just read her bio, I just assumed she was Vermouth crazy. Now I might have to give it a try.
Easy tip from a friends Nana: sink a clove of garlic into a bottle of Red Wine Vinegar. Rounds out quick salad dressings, and adds a little something to most other things you'd use it for.

LAZ wrote:I think we've mentioned this an another thread, but I keep vermouth on hand to use whenever a recipe calls for a small amount of dry white wine. I hate to open a bottle just for a half a cup of wine for a recipe -- and it isn't always practical to drink the rest. Vermouth, a fortified wine, keeps indefinitely, unlike wine, and adds a light herbal character I enjoy. Sometimes I use dry sherry instead, but its stronger flavor isn't always appropriate.

Marcella Hazan's a fan of this one, too. A ton of her recipes call for tomato paste dissolved in a small cup of vermouth.

Personally speaking, it's awfully specific rather than a general-purpose weapon, but a dash or two of Tabasco in guacamole is one of those imperceptible "you can't put your finger on it but it makes a huge difference" additions. It's a similar brightening and flavor-expanding effect as the sherry vinegar trick, above.

LAZ wrote:I think we've mentioned this an another thread, but I keep vermouth on hand to use whenever a recipe calls for a small amount of dry white wine. I hate to open a bottle just for a half a cup of wine for a recipe -- and it isn't always practical to drink the rest.

Along the same lines, I used a dry sake last night in grilled shrimp/asparagus risotto. I think sake keeps longer than regular wine (the stuff I used has been sitting in my refrigerator for months), but probably not as long as vermouth.

"-- and it isn't always practical to drink the rest."

Well, that is certainly not a problem around here.

Unless I'm cooking breakfast.

LAZ wrote:...and it isn't always practical to drink the rest.

MikeLM wrote:Well, that is certainly not a problem around here.

Unless I'm cooking breakfast.

Eggs poached in white wine

2 cups dry white wine or vermouth
1 cup chicken broth
4 eggs
1/2 white onion, thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
Small bundle of thyme sprigs, parsley sprigs and a bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 pound bacon, diced
1/4 pound button mushrooms, sliced
1 tablespoon flour
2 tablespoons creme fraiche or sour cream
Salt and white pepper to taste
4 slices white bread, challah or brioche, cut into rounds and toasted
Additional butter for toast

Bring the wine and broth to a boil in a wide saucepan. Break an egg into a cup. Stir the wine mixture to create a whirlpool and slip the egg into its center. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Lower the heat and simmer the eggs for 3 minutes. Lift out each egg with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Trim off any stringy edges with scissors and set the eggs aside.

Add the onion, celery, garlic, herbs and peppercorns to the poaching liquid and simmer until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Strain the wine mixture, pressing on the vegetables, to extract all the liquid and flavor. Discard the veggies and return the liquid to the pan; bring to simmering.

(You can poach the eggs up to a day in advance, keeping them in a bowl of cold water in the refrigerator. Reheat by immersing in hot water for 1 minute. The wine reduction can be made in advance and reheated as well.)

Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a medium saucepan, add the bacon and fry until crisp. Spoon out the bacon and drain it on paper towels. Add the mushrooms to the fat in the pan and saute until brown and tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Mash the remaining 1 tablespoon butter with a fork and work in the flour to form a soft paste. Whisk, a bit at a time, into the simmering wine mixture until it thickens enough to lightly coat a spoon. Just before serving, whisk in the creme fraiche. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, toast and butter the bread. Top each toast round with a poached egg. Surround with mushrooms and bacon and drizzle with the sauce. 2 servings.

Dmnkly wrote:

LAZ wrote:I think we've mentioned this an another thread, but I keep vermouth on hand to use whenever a recipe calls for a small amount of dry white wine. I hate to open a bottle just for a half a cup of wine for a recipe -- and it isn't always practical to drink the rest. Vermouth, a fortified wine, keeps indefinitely, unlike wine, and adds a light herbal character I enjoy. Sometimes I use dry sherry instead, but its stronger flavor isn't always appropriate.

Marcella Hazan's a fan of this one, too. A ton of her recipes call for tomato paste dissolved in a small cup of vermouth.

Personally speaking, it's awfully specific rather than a general-purpose weapon, but a dash or two of Tabasco in guacamole is one of those imperceptible "you can't put your finger on it but it makes a huge difference" additions. It's a similar brightening and flavor-expanding effect as the sherry vinegar trick, above.

If fat, water and alcohol are present in a recipe, then you get the fullest flavor. It is really science because various flavor components dissolve in the various mediums. It is why vodka tomato sauce has a fuller flavor than one without an alcohol component. The alcohol may have long evaporated away, but it did its essential job dissolving the flavor components.

Regards,

MikeLM wrote:"-- and it isn't always practical to drink the rest."

Well, that is certainly not a problem around here.

Unless I'm cooking breakfast.

Yesterday, doing some research into Victorian menus, I ran across a restaurant menu that offered "Breakfast Wines." Claret was one of them, I don't remember the other one. Like Diamond Jim Brady, I'll stick with orange juice.

atomicman wrote:I seem to remember seeing salt cured anchovies at Bari Foods on Grand

They usually have an open tin of salt cured anchovies at the deli counter.
Many Italian grocery stores have them for sale by weight or in smaller tins.


My trick (not original) is to add a touch of whatever herb or acid that I used in the prep of a dish as a finishing touch.
that and some butter!

this may sound a bit strange, but water has been one of my favorite secret ingredients lately.

for years, i subscribed to the theory that every little bit of liquid added to any preparation had to also add flavor. i'd toss in beer, wine, citrus juice, soy sauce, etc, etc, etc....

suddenly, i'm loving what water does to certain things.

water is my secret to a perfect vinaigrette. seriously. start with your mustard/shallot/herb/vinegar base, whisk in your oil to emulsify a bit, and then add a few drops of water while whisking and watch the texture smooth out, watch how much easier it is to add the oil, and enjoy how much easier it is to get to that perfect spot where the oil and acid components are perfectly balanced, but the dressing's not too thick or thin.

same thing for butter sauces. i make a lot of improvised beurre blanc sauces right in the pan with the saute, whatever's going in the pasta--sausage, peppers, onions, veggies--and then i deglaze with wine, toss in the hot cooked pasta, turn the heat down to low and add whole butter in small chunks to make a butter sauce while tossing the whole thing together. water. it's the perfect thing to make the sauce a bit looser, to help the emulsification, and it won't screw up your balance between the fat of the butter and the acidity of the reduced wine.

oh, and again with mayonnaise-based sauces. water loosens up that thick, pasty mayo and makes it a smooth, silky sauce.

am i sounding crazy with my absolute love of water as a cooking ingredient? maybe! but that's how enthralled i am that after 20+ years of serious cooking, i'm just now starting to figure out how useful the stuff is.

This is no secret but...thorough cooking. I'll use the example of corn chowder I make each fall/winter. The extended Davooda clan and my colleagues at work insist my finished product tastes better than when they try to duplicate the recipe at home. I am convinced it's because they fear overcooking. You must cook the bacon long, low and slow so as to render every drip of flavorful fat while the remaining meat turns into tiny crispy bits of flavor that you will add at the last moment before serving. You must cook the diced onions and diced potatoes in the roux of flour and rendered bacon fat until the whole mess is caramelized and brown in color. This produces that wonderful depth of flavor and I think some home cooks are reluctant to risk burning so they come up short of the fully-cooked flavor profile.

elakin wrote: i make a lot of improvised beurre blanc sauces right in the pan with the saute, whatever's going in the pasta--sausage, peppers, onions, veggies--and then i deglaze with wine, toss in the hot cooked pasta, turn the heat down to low and add whole butter in small chunks to make a butter sauce while tossing the whole thing together. water.

Next time, try using some of the pasta water instead of straight tap water. It really adds a lot to the sauce.

You must cook the bacon long, low and slow

You know, that's the thing I urge, absolutely urge on anyone who gets some of my home-cured bacon. Admittedly, the hand slices tend toward the thick side anyway. But if it takes less than 45 minutes to fry-- you're cooking it too damn fast! An hour is entirely reasonable.

pasta water instead of straight tap water. It really adds a lot to the sauce.

oh, most definitely. the starch from the pasta cooking water really helps to bring the sauce together. this is a very authentic technique. every restaurant that i worked at in italy always dragged some of the pasta water into the saute pan when building the dish.