Hope for Oak Park: Café le Coq

Hope for Oak Park: Café le Coq

Nothing says Jerkwater, USA, more painfully than Oak Park’s Oak Park Avenue, particularly around Lake Street. In what should be a rich dining zone for new condo residents and old-time food enthusiasts like me, the abysmal JB Winberie’s competes in the mealtime mediocrity throwdown with Erik’s Delicatessen (not a deli) and the uninspired Geppetto’s restaurant.

One bright light amidst this blight is Café Le Coq. Steve Chiappetti (Viand) ditched his job there over a year ago. Since then, a number of chefs were called in to take his place, but now there’s a new staff and Jim August, the owner, seems to have a strong hand in what’s happening there. (I see him shopping at the Farmer’s Market for the evening’s dinner, and he said he redesigned the menu himself; he’s constantly in the dining room, a genial and not overly obtrusive presence).

There were a lot of people there the night we visited, and I had a beautiful rack of lamb, pink, plush and impeccably paired with a glass of Chateauneuf de Pape: the pleasing gaminess of the meat was sliced through by the flintiness of the wine, and this food/wine duo is now one of my all-time favorite combos. The glass was not cheap -- $17, which is more than I pay for most bottles – but it was a very generous pour and it was one of those naturally perfect unions of grub and grape that I come across every hundred or so dinners.

August told me that his place won a Wine Spectator award again in 2006, and though the wine list is impressive, I’m somewhat suspicious of this designation. Perhaps someone with more experience in these matters can tell me if this kind of recognition is a marketing ploy or a genuine honor.*

The room is a touch too fussy for me (lots of antiques and a slight feel of fauxness), but I think this could be Oak Park’s finest dining experience (for which, malheuresement, the competition is not intense).

Café Le Coq
734 Lake St.
708.848.2233


* http://www.labottesantamonica.com/pdf/2 ... inners.pdf

I heard once that someone once submitted a fake restaurant with a fake winelist and won a wine spectator award - so i wouldn't but much merit into it. Restaurants have to submit a fee to the Wine Spectator to have it considered.

Doesn't August also own the neighboring wine shop? Maybe he included all of their inventory on his wine list at Cafe le Coq for the WS award.

gleam wrote:Doesn't August also own the neighboring wine shop? Maybe he included all of their inventory on his wine list at Cafe le Coq for the WS award.

gleam,

My understanding is that August used to own the toy store that is now the space of Cafe le Coq (not be be confused with another toy store, also called Geppetto's! -- right next door). I've met the owner of Cabernet & Co, and it's a different guy (I forget his name -- but if you go in for wine, ask for my friend Richard, who I believe you've met: he's the Voice of Pork..."it's on your plate, it's in your mouth, it's pork, the Other White Meat").

Hammond

Oh, OK. For some reason I thought the two were affiliated... my bad

And yes, I do believe I've met the Pork Man.

DH et al:

Here are some other hopes for our native territory -

- Beignets and coffee at Nola's Cup. Their muffaletta is still quite weak but man can they do deep fried, and are finally coming up to speed on some other entrees (pretty decent gumbo, and a nice pork shoulder special).

- the Pilsen specials menu at Fuego Loco. They had it on May 5th and again over Memorial Day. Shockingly, someone at this yuppified Tex-Mex marg-joint finally hired a cook with some pride, as we had excellent cumin-lamb tacos, ceviche, and pulled roast chicken with three kinds of hot sauteed peppers. Their salsas are improving as well along with the service. The tasty 'carne caliente' with all of the sauteed peppers and garlic butter, does strongly remind me of something I had in Playa del Carmen - admittedly not the most traditional area in the country - but order it with the tortillas separate or you'll be dripping.

- Moroccan plates du jour at Hemmingway's Bistro. I had a marvelous lamb with home-made couscous pearls and preserved lemon in April, and have noticed other lemon and harissa-laced specials of late.

- Saltimbocca at the Pasta Shoppe - you must admit it's a very pretty room with all of the hardwood, but I'll understand if the very poor overcooked chicken entrees have disappointed in the past. Their fresh pastas are usually solid, and I've had a few above average items recently, including a nice saltimbocca and a very spicy arrabiata.

Otherwise, yes, it's fairly dismal. I never want to go to the Avenue / Alehouse / Whatever again after their burgers and fries went from moist and tasty to frozen Sysco crud. Cafe le Coq did suck for a little while (gristly steak, oversalted cassoulet, no specials) but seems to be returning. Completely disenchanted with the cuisine at La Majada and the prices at Nuevo Rebozo, though Paco is affable and occasionally the pipian verde mole special or tortilla soup with frijoles negros can hit the spot. Winberie is just not there anymore, especially for brunch. They still make what I consider a good Caesar salad and an excellent Bloody Mary. Erik's has one reasonable sandwich to my mind - roast beef with french-fried onions on a croissant - but they have no good condiments to accompany (horseradish mayo, good Dijon mustard, any good barbecue sauce) and just about everything else there is dull beyond words. I always want to give Robison's BBQ another chance but have been affronted by surly or incompetent order takers and gloppy undercooked pork far too many times. Mama Thai makes me weep at the possibilities gone wrong (worst.beef.salad.evAr.)

My guilty pleasures that offer sustenance but not really hope are Carnitas crispy tacos from Chipotle, the 'thai ravioli' bowl from Penny's (lots of peanuts, roast pork, sweet chile oil, dumplings), and a very few dishes from Szechwan Beijing (sic), including the salt and pepper chicken and Mongolian beef (well-spiced, although the meat quality isn't uniform).

I have to remind myself that other places I frequent - Parky's, Amarind, Wishbone at Fitzgeralds, Johnnie's, Freddy's, La Piazza - are not actually in Oak Park even though you could hit most of them with a 3-wood from our borders. I have some hopes for Harrison Street (Buzz and the new place). Perhaps we can do a tour of the surrounding highlights sometime soon.

santander,

I'm all for accentuating the positive, and I'm very encouraged by your intel regarding Fuego Loco's Pilsen specialties, and though I have elsewhere heaped scorn upon the Pasta Shoppe , I would consider Hemminway's again.

I used to love La Majada (circa 1980 -- it smelt old the last time I was there, about 10 years ago).

I don't really think Buzz qualifies as a restaurant (do they cook anything there?), and I can't consider Chipotle at all as an eating zone (though I accept it as a guilty pleasure; hey, I eat fried Twinkies and cicadas).

I'm hopeful for Trattoria 225 which periodically shows signs of opening.

Hammond

Buzz does have a full menu, including a good Sunday brunch and basic dinners. Great room, nice sidewalk seating, very simple food. Specials are occasionally creative, and if they ever would knock into the next space, they'd have room for a nice full kithcen. Their rustic salad and a hot ham and cheese is a good evening comfort meal.

http://www.thebuzzcafe.com/thebuzz.html

Santander wrote:DH et al:
I always want to give Robinson's BBQ another chance but have been affronted by surly or incompetent order takers and gloppy undercooked pork far too many times.

I'm pretty sure I haven't heard anything positive about Robinson's in 8 years. Last time I went was about five years ago. Last time. I grew up on Charlie's stuff, so it makes me sad that I just can't go back anymore. It used to be pretty darn good.

I have noticed that La Majada cannot be trusted for anything except their enchiladas over the past five years. Another shame. But, hey, the proximity of Amarinds and La Piazza, the indigenous Le Coq, and now the mention of a possibly decently revamped Mexican entry into the fold? I'd say there isn't THAT much to complain about. Although, the state of Mexican food is pretty disappointing. There are, however, new Mexican places opening up left and right on Cermak in the Berwyn / Cicero area. Again, not Oak Park, but close enough. I'm hoping to find a decent one soon!

Lol - Just this am after taking a detour after picking up some things from Turano, I drove past a newly opened Mex Seafood restaurant on Cermak.
I can't recall exactly where it was, but it was on the north side of the street, around Al's, and that A&W/KFC. It had pictures of different sea creatures in each window, and a crudely painted picture of Popeye in the doorway. I didn't catch every picture on every window because, as I was driving past, my eyes stuck on one of the window panes. Two smiling dolphins. I'll try to elaborate - In each window was a different painting. Octopus, fish, squid, shark, crab, lobster, oysters, and happy, smiling, dolphins. Um, which ones make you think, "YUMMY! let's go eat THAT!" If you answered "all," then you are just plain crude. (I'm hoping they were probably trying to convey something about mahi mahi that was obviously lost in translation at some point.)
I should go take a picture.

Another reason for hope: the soon-to-be-opened Marion Street Cheese Market "restaurant" -- I use quotes because I don't think that's the right word for what's in the works. It will be like a wine bar, but with a vast selection of cheese and other items, a kind of hybrid store/restaurant that's going in on the southeast corner of Marion and South Blvd in the Opera building.

seebee wrote:Lol - Just this am after taking a detour after picking up some things from Turano, I drove past a newly opened Mex Seafood restaurant on Cermak.
I can't recall exactly where it was, but it was on the north side of the street, around Al's, and that A&W/KFC. It had pictures of different sea creatures in each window, and a crudely painted picture of Popeye in the doorway. I didn't catch every picture on every window because, as I was driving past, my eyes stuck on one of the window panes. Two smiling dolphins. I'll try to elaborate - In each window was a different painting. Octopus, fish, squid, shark, crab, lobster, oysters, and happy, smiling, dolphins. Um, which ones make you think, "YUMMY! let's go eat THAT!" If you answered "all," then you are just plain crude. (I'm hoping they were probably trying to convey something about mahi mahi that was obviously lost in translation at some point.)
I should go take a picture.

I didn't take a camera either, also to my regret, but I bet you were looking at Las Graviotas

Las Graviotas
5830 W. Cermak
Cicero

Ann Fisher wrote:I didn't take a camera either, also to my regret, but I bet you were looking at Las Graviotas

Las Graviotas
5830 W. Cermak
Cicero

Ann, thank you very much for reminding me of this place. I remember reading your first post years ago, making a mental note to go...and then "losing" the note. Got to try it...and get some pix.

Hammond

Hopefully, the new Japanese restaurant [two stories] going in on the south side of Lake Street near the recently de-pedestrian-ated Marion St will be a happy addition to our village. I have heard that the owner[s] have a small number of similar restaurans around Chicago....I've spoken with Erik of Marion St. Cheese about his plans and while it won't technically be a restaurant, with his devotion to great products, I'm sure it'll be great.

There were some good eats in the village last saturday, at a dinner for eight auctioned off in benefit of First United's preschool.

The menu:

An Evening of Architecture
& Fine Dining
Saturday, June 9, 2007


amuse
seared chu-toro with daikon, shoyu and wasabi tobiko
…………
soup
english pea soup with truffle oil, truffle honey
& parmesan crisp
…………
pasta
fava bean agnolotti with curry emulsion
…………
monkfish
pan-roasted with artichoke barigoule
& genesis growers spring vegetables
…………
pork belly
braised and pressed with garlic, thyme
& caramelized apples
…………

beef
wellington, deconstructed
…………

cheese
“little bloom on the prairie” springfield, il
…………

chocolate brownie
with peanut butter ganache & mascarpone mousse

mchodera,

Where was the auctioned dinner held? Sounds interesting -- deconstconstructed Beel Wellington is probably something I could make (I'm guessing tenderloin with sides of brioche and pate?).

I believe "Little Bloom on the Prairie" is from Prairie Fruits Farm, which is outside Champaign-Urbana. I bought some from Eric at the OP Farmer's Market, and actually was a little disappointed. I think cheesemakers are so eager to refine the goatiness away from some cheese that you end up with an almost neutral tasting fromage. I like PFF cheeses, but Little Bloom didn't live up to my expectations.

Hammond

Hi:

We had the dinner at my house on Forest Ave, nearly midpoint between Chicago and Lake.

The architecture part started with drinks and canapes on a neighbor's porch and proceeded to a tour of the Elizabeth Gale House by F.L.Wright. The Gale house was the last one he designed before Fallingwater and his fascination with cantilevers and overhangs is evident in that little jewelbox. The Gale's also commisioned two of the three famous "bootleg" [he was working for Adler and Sullivan at the time] houses on Chicago Ave between Marion and Forest....

"Deconstructed Wellington" is exactly what you thought - duxelles, bit of duck foie, fillet of beef, puff pastry squares, great sauce with madiera and veal stock....I used a torch to carmelize the foie just a little.

The "Little Bloom" we had that night was impeccable served with quince paste, a piece of puff and strawberries from the OP farmer's market. That one was, imho, goat-a-licious and perfectly ripe....

We'll be at your place tomorrow night at 8 PM bearing wine.

Seriously, we should have an OP / RF / EP / FP / Berwyn / Cicero thon sometime soon.

The EP joints on North avenue, and the Berwyn/Cicero joints on Cermak are SCREAMING for a "thon" IMO.

Santander wrote:We'll be at your place tomorrow night at 8 PM bearing wine.

Seriously, we should have an OP / RF / EP / FP / Berwyn / Cicero thon sometime soon.

A classic Berwyn joint that I went to twice last week is Czech Plaza on Cermak. In Berwyn, nothing says "Soup's on!" as clearly as liver dumpling soup, and this Czech Plaza starter almost justifies a trip all by itself. The fruit dumplings are equally noteworthy: like half-spheres of Chicago softballs, they're plump with fresh fruit and feasible as entrees or dessert.

You know David, I think you are going to make me raid the leftovers that my wife brought home from Czech Plaza tonight...

Ok, for a first timer to Czech Plaza. What should I get? Going with one other person. Liver dumpling soup, fruit dumplings, and?

seebee wrote:Ok, for a first timer to Czech Plaza. What should I get? Going with one other person. Liver dumpling soup, fruit dumplings, and?

Of all the things I had there, I think the duck was my favorite: very meaty and moist (it comes with gravy, but I'd take a pass on the gravy; the duck is just fine as it is).

A neighbor of mine took an in-law from Thuringia, who somewhat too predictably got the Thuringer, and pronounced it "just like home." I had it, and it was pretty good, but would probably not be my first choice. Be careful with the meatloaf, too; it's Bohemian style, which means more like a finely ground sausage).

On tap they have Czechvar, which is the original Budweiser (the American company bought the brand and told the residents of Budějovice that they would have to come up with a new name for their signature brew, which did not make them happy).

Hammond

On tap they have Czechvar, which is the original Budweiser (the American company bought the brand and told the residents of Budějovice that they would have to come up with a new name for their signature brew, which did not make them happy).

Still over 40 lawsuits pending. Here's the story:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Budweiser_Budvar

jbw wrote:

On tap they have Czechvar, which is the original Budweiser (the American company bought the brand and told the residents of Budějovice that they would have to come up with a new name for their signature brew, which did not make them happy).

Still over 40 lawsuits pending. Here's the story:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Budweiser_Budvar

Interesting (at least to me) that Czechvar has pretty much the same font/logotype as the old Budweiser Budvar.

I mentioned last year that Fuego Loco does pretty well around Cinco de Mayo, and still hold that to be true. Service and atmosphere are annoyingly bland and mainstream, but the guys on the line know how to grill, and the ingredient quality, marinating, and generally detail-oriented prep cooking are just fine. Now again, please take the recommendation for what it is, just a kind word on a mass-market tejano storefront in a whitebread neighborhood. Xni-Pec, it's not.

My currently recommended dish, for as long as it lasts: fiesta de cinco tacos, which is a steal at $11.95 for enough food for two. The tacos:

- lime-marinated and well-blackened tilapia, no breading
- garlic shrimp, tasting pretty fresh
- carne asada, crispy and good quality cut with no stringy fat
- pork carnitas, consistently excellent
- leg of lamb, very crispy, shredded carnitas-style

Each taco is topped conservatively with minced onion, cilantro, and a lime slice, and the fussy frontera condiments (sour cream and guacamole) are on the side as they should be. No cheese, either. Served with their basket of piping-hot chips and five house salsas (the best are the tomatillo and the fire-roasted jalapeno), this is a tasty and very inexpensive meal for one or two. Fuego Loco is also always very accommodating of substitutions at no extra charge.

Some nights, I'd rather be impressed by humble ordering at a place like this than disappointed by high-priced special holiday menus at Nuevo Rebozo, Maya del Sol, and the other spots in the next echelon up.

Quick Oak Park hits:

- Khyber Pass (Northern Indian) is closed for renovation, but they've opened a downtown outpost at 233 E. Wacker. I'm not a fan lately after years of swearing by their chicken "mukhni" (makhani); the love doesn't seem to be there anymore, and the buffet, which used to be good for an Indian buffet, has been abysmal of late.

- Szechwan Beijing owner says they're looking to sell (while continuing to operate, good for at least a year): not enough business

- Pasta Shoppe is now serving thin-crust Neapolitan pizza. Has anyone tried it?



OPRF / FPers, any other news on new openings, changes of ownership, or recent experiences?

And is Cafe le Coq closed? Perhaps, though the official statement suggests they're just on vacation (shortly after they had trouble renewing their liquor license).

David Hammond wrote:And is Cafe le Coq closed? Perhaps, though the official statement suggests they're just on vacation (shortly after they had trouble renewing their liquor license).

That is a bummer. They've been closed for at least three weeks now. I kind of liked the place. Any idea why they would have trouble renewing their license?

And the phone - c'est disconnected.

Yellowbot, which carries very current news and reviews, has the status listed as "closed:"

http://www.yellowbot.com/cafe-le-coq-oak-park-il.html

from last weeks wednesday journal:
French bistro Cafe Le Coq, 734 Lake St., has been closed for close to a month, and sources say the restaurant may be gone for good.

A sign has been displayed in the front window, reporting the owners are on spring break. Numerous calls to owner Jim August were not returned as of Tuesday afternoon.

President David Pope (wearing his liquor commissioner hat) said his understanding is that the 5-year-old restaurant is being put up for sale so the owner could spend more time with his family.

"It's a real loss to the community if Café Le Coq doesn't continue," Pope said. "But I'm optimistic that, as wonderful a restaurant as it is, it will be purchased and reopened. I certainly hope so."

According to members of the liquor control review board, the restaurant wasn't up to date on its liquor taxes, and its license was not renewed earlier this year.

"We were informed that they were delinquent in their liquor taxes, and Café Le Coq was not approved until they're up to speed," said Jerry Ostergaard, liquor board chair.

The village could not provide an amount of the back liquor taxes by press time.

But Pope emphasized that the bistro was closed by the owners, not the village.

"They were not forced to close the restaurant," he said. "In my role as village president, I am also responsible to serve as the liquor commissioner of Oak Park and would need to be involved in any suspension or revocation of a liquor license. And I can tell you flat out that hasn't happened in this case."



there the constructor craft fair ( http://www.constructorcraftfair.com )on sunday, may 25th, in that fizgeralds/wishbone lot, and there will be a vendor selling chocolate chip and bacon cookies! they are called cafe le baron, and i have no idea if they are any good or not, but i will try them on sunday

I know this is a dead thread, but i was revisiting it researching my czech options in chicago. I just went to Czech Days in the small town of Tabor SD, with a population of about 400. Supposedly as many as 10,000 people have traveled for this event in past years, but I only saw maybe a couple thousand. Best time I had was watching two old czech ladies (one who was actually related to my wife) give a demonstration on how to make Kolaches (Kolache is the plural for Kolach in Czech, but in the good ol' USA the plural is Kolaches). The two ladies each had their own recipes so it was fun to watch them shoot snide remarks at each other about which way was traditional or easier or gets better results. Now for a cooking show, that’s a great idea! It really gives you options, not to mention entertaining.

As for Budweiser/Czechvar/Budvar, I learned a lot about Czechvar and Budweiser while I was there. Thought I’d clear it up that Budweiser Budvar IS the same beer as Czechvar, old or new. Budweiser is trademarked by more than one company in different parts of the world and the name is also protected under some jurisdictions as being the name of a geographic location so there cannot be a Trademark. I guess you can imagine it like any company being allowed to call a beer a Chicago beer. Makes sense if you think about it. Afterall Budweis (Budějovice) is a city in Czech Republic. What I really learned, sadly, is that most if not all of the Czech Americans still drank Bud Light, and looked at the Czechvar as a strange beer.

Once I get back home to Chicago I’ll post pictures of the Kolach baking demonstration, and maybe these recipes from the Czech ladies if that’s allowed, after all it is a family recipe!