lobos al fresco tacos

the good news in wicker park/bucktown this week is that we have a new, inexpensive mexican restaurant. i've only visited once and found it more ambitious than i expected, based on its location in the old johnny's snack shop on the corner of milwaukee and wabansia. the inside is still tiny and depressing. but there are cheerful outdoor tables (and horribly loud 'L' train noises nearby). i don't think this will ever be a destination spot, but the owner uses fresh ingredients and makes his own salsas. i tried 3 of the 4 different tacos available- al pastor, cochinita pibil and carne asada. the double layered tortillas weren't homemade, but were very moist and fresh. the carne asada was the only disappointment. it was lacking in meaty and garlicky flavor in spite of being cooked in lobos' 'secret sauce'. the cochinita was a juicy shredded mound of pork atop some tasty black beans. the traditional accompaniment, habanero salsa is one of the 3 homemade salsas on offer. the others are tomatillo (a little too watery and smooth) and a chile arbol. the al pastor is described as being served with grilled onions and pineapple. the pineapple wasn't noticeably there, but it was acceptable.
we also tried the guacamole. it was fresh and nicely chunky. it could have used a little more lime juice and more heat, but we ate it all. fresh squeezed lemonade was delicious and the service was friendly and efficient.
nothing was great, but i appreciated the effort at this modest little tacqueria. it's a good addition to a neighborhood of pricey restaurants. i hope, if the customers show a serious interest in the authenticity of the food, it will continue to improve. in addition to tacos (the 4th kind is pollo), the menu includes sopes, chilaquiles, burritos and dinner entrees of cochinita pibil, carne al pastor, pollo in mole rojo, carne asada, chiles rellenos and enchiladas with mole verde, rojo or guajillo.

LOBOS AL FRESCO TACOS
1732 N. MILWAUKEE
(773)486-3101
open tues.-thurs. 10-10, fri-sat. 10am-11pm, sunday 12-9

I found the asada as dull as you did. The pastor was OK. The cochinita was the best of those three meats, by a longshot, but it doesn't get close to the Cochinita at Chuck's or Xni-Pec.

The tamale appetizer is expensive for two tamales, but they (the pork) were pretty good. Rice and beans were both not very tasty.

It's maybe the best taqueria in easy walking distance of my office, but I'd much rather go the extra 4 blocks or so to Carniceria Leon, which absolutely destroys lobos al fresco in taste in every way.

And yeah, eating outside is not a smart move there. Very, very noisy.

It's probably worth noting for pastor fiends that while the flavor is nice (though unexceptional), there's no spit present at Lobos.