Taqueria Moran: Homogenized Mex but Not Bad

Taqueria Moran: Homogenized Mex but Not Bad

Logan Square’s Taqueria Moran seems to be a very popular spot. The Wife and I stopped in last night and it was quite crowded – at 9:00 PM, the place was three-quarters full, which may speak to either the quality of the food or the lack of other reasonable dining options in the very immediate vicinity (Logan Square is full of taquerias, but this seemed a stretch that offered few other obvious options).



There’s been some controversy over the tacos al pastor as served here. They’re not spitted but rather griddled, which is really not the way it’s supposed to be done (shepherds didn’t have griddles with them as they tended their flock, ), and there’s a heavy addition of adobo powder, which though not unpleasant tends to blur the caramelized flavors of the meat. We had a few tacos al pastor, as well as tacos of carnitas (also griddled, which is not bad, but again a slight violation of what I think of as standard), cabeza and lengua (I’m not sure I could tell the difference between the two: both were grey, spongy and soft, with decent and not overpowering flavor).



Our campechana cocktail of pulpo and camarones had a very thin sauce and slightly overcooked seafood, a tangible reflection of my overall sense that this place is a watered down version of what you’d find in Pilsen, Mexican food homogenized to a kind of accessible sameness that has its pleasures if not much of a personality.

Taqueria Moran
2226 N. California
773.235.2663

David Hammond wrote:Mexican food homogenized to a kind of accessible sameness that has its pleasures if not much of a personality.

Hammond,

Spot-on summary, parallels my experience at Moran almost exactly, right down to the nondescript cabeza and lengua. I've also had taco abodabo, tasty, but slightly dry most likely a result, as you say, of a spin on the griddle.

Lengua, Cebasa, Abodabo


Table salsa is the Moran highlight, a just verging on aggressive chunky mix I though had the merest hint of powdered dried shrimp. Though, now that I think of it, I don't remember ever encountering a straight up table salsa with dried shrimp.

Chips, Escabeche and Salsa


I remember noting the murals, but don't seem to have a picture.

Enjoy,
Gary

Taqueria Moran
2226 N. California
Chicago, IL
773-235-2663

Taqueria Moran: Homogenized Mex but Not BadMoran: Homogenized Mex but Not Bad

That is a perfect description for Taqueria Moran. It is certainly better than many places, but not as good as others. Its middle-of-the-road offerings make it a favorite of The Chow Poodle, and a place that I can always find something to eat. In particular, I like the pickled veggies that are served along with the salsa.

G Wiv wrote:parallels my experience at Moran almost exactly, right down to the nondescript cabeza and lengua.

To recalibrate my taste buds, I had side-by-side cabeza and lengua tacos today at Birriería Estilo Jalisco. The cabeza in back was much darker, more oily tasting and firm; the lengua was softer, more flavorful and my preference. The birria in broth was mighty fine.



I wonder if at Taqueria Moran I was actually served two orders of lengua rather than one of lengua and one of cabeza. The differences between the two meats are palpable.

Birriería Estilo Jalisco
2035 N. Western Ave.
773.252.8425