Two-Way Grill

Following the suggestion of stevez, today I ate breakfast at Two-Way Grill on the northwest side. Although Two-Way is not destination dining, I certainly would recommend dropping in if you find yourself in the neighborhood (or if it already is your neighborhood). Tidy environs (actually, "spotlessly clean" would not be an exaggeration), with efficient if not particularly outgoing service (hey, they spare the energy for the food). And then there is the specific reason I was there, namely the biscuits and gravy. Verdict: very good. Starting with the gravy, it was definitely done "right" -- i.e., it was country gravy (white milk gravy with sage breakfast sausage crumbled in). Too mild for my taste; but remediable via a shot of the hot sauce conveniently placed on the counter. I would like them to put more grease in the gravy and use bigger crumbles of hotter sausage, but that's a matter of taste; others may prefer the smooth and mild version they are putting out, free of lumps and tasting fresh.

So, then, the biscuits. They were very good, a solid effort, flavorful and tender, although just verging on being held too long. And for the following reason, I want to go back and try them again: As she pulled my biscuits from the warmer, my server yelled back to the kitchen, "Need more biscuits!" Too bad for me, because I got the last two of the prior batch, but those three simple words said a bundle. Namely, they were going to bake fresh biscuits at 9:30 a.m. They didn't just bake twelve-hundred biscuits at 5:00 a.m. (or the night before) and stick them under foil to turn into doughy brickbats. Instead, it was apparent that Two-Way Grill makes a batch of biscuits, sells it and, when they run out, they make more. A simple recipe for success; why don't others follow it? Here's another good sign (literally hanging on the wall): they only serve B&G in the morning, not past 11:00 a.m. Probably because making biscuits all day and night would be too much work, and they want to do it right. I like this, a lot. Thanks for putting me onto it, Steve (even though I know B&G is pretty low on your personal menu of favorites). And they have a short but effective menu of diner favorites that may warrant a lunch or dinner visit; as just an example, I would recommend them to provide mental and emotional comfort either before or after a visit to the Secretary of State licensing facility up the road.

Two-Way Grill
4351 N. Elston Ave.
Chicago, IL

Jim,

Glad you liked it. Two Way grill is fast becoming my neighborhood replacement for the ill fated Edgebrook Diner *.


* Not to say the Edgebrook has closed or anything like that, it's just not the same since the ownership change.

stevez wrote:Glad you liked it. Two Way grill is fast becoming my neighborhood replacement for the ill fated Edgebrook Diner *.

Hit Two-Way Grill on the long side of 4am last evening, perfect time of night to go where you just the miss the severely inebriated spooning eggs into the side of their mouth and staff is gearing up for the breakfast rush.

Eggs were dead-on over easy, pancakes light and fluffy, sausage hinting of sage and the $6 rib-eye, including eggs, hash browns and toast, hit the spot with my wife and nieces. Counter man and waitress in almost happy moods as the shift came to a close, and endless coffee along with good humor.

Two-Way has secured a berth in my late night diner options along with Kevin's on Pershing and Diner Grill on Irving.

Enjoy,
Gary

Two-Way Grill
4351 N. Elston Ave.
Chicago, IL

Kevin's Hamburger Heaven
554 W Pershing Rd
Chicago, IL

Diner Grill
1635 W Irving Park Rd
Chicago, IL 60613

I know that two way has undergone a management change in the past six months or so. I haven't been in since that happened. however, prior to the change, they served an excellent Tennessee Country Ham that was one of the best that I have had in Chicago.

You may ask next time that you're in for the ham. I always found it to be a thing of beauty. FWIW, I always found the B&G at two way to be pretty rib sticking solid.

Several years ago, under old management, they used to have a room in the back where you could play video poker 24/7. Made the trip back to the restroom interesting on those 4 AM nights.