Sometimes I drive by a place and think to myself -- that place looks good, wonder why I haven't heard much about it. Lawrence Fisheries on the edge of Chinatown is that kind of place. It's been there forever. It's attractively located on a scruffy stretch of the Chicago River. It looks well kept but not mannered or calculated or corporate. How bad could it be? So tonight we (mostly I) rejected the idea of trying Grace O'Malley's (which, frankly, looks, on the surface, to embody everything I hate in a bar, a restaurant, Chicago, (that is another discussion) but Kasia thinks might have good burgers) and tried LF.
Inside it certainly is clean enough and handsome enough but, boy, it's not good. We ordered the fish chips and shrimp dinners. Each comes with fries and a roll. They coat the shrimp and fish in the thickest, sludgiest cornmeal batter I have ever experienced. Like deep-fried cornmeal gum. And not well-spiced. Just bland and thick and more mealy than corny. This may work as a booze sponge (LF is open 24 hours) but it fails as food. (Kasia resorted to removing the coating and eating the shrimp/fish smothered inside. The fish bits and shrimp, unbreaded weren't absolutely horrible.) The cocktail sauce a little catsup-heavy and horseradish-light for my taste. The bouquet of hot sauce bore a disturbing resemblence to that of the complimentary (and well-appreciated) handi-wipe. The fries (frozen, crinkle cut, Sysco (I suspect), slightly uncrisp, utterly unsalted) were bad too. Even 17 month old Buzzy, usually a fried food maven, was unimpressed. We came home and ate fruit.
Lawrence Fisheries
Cermak and Canal