Well, it was a pretty darned good meal by my lights.
The meal started with an amuse bouche that was a little clam fritter with sunchoke in a buttery, savory foam ("espuma" at Blackbird) with little bits of apple for contrast. The overall effect was most like an artichoke fritter with a sweet clam embedded in it, sauced with some airy hollandaise. The apple flavor was mostly lost to my palate, but the crunchiness and slight touch of sweetness was enjoyable.
We brought along a bottle of wine (for which we were charged $25 corkage - though the server offered that somewhat tentatively, as if he expected to be challenged) - an enjoyable 1995 Castelgiocondo Brunello - still drinking quite well. I asked the server to order for me, and after considering the bottle, he said he thought he could do something. Good fellow.
My first course was a ragout of rabbit, with a light, creamy, curry sauce. Atop the mound of rabbit, fresh oyster mushrooms and some vegetable I cannot identify (possibly little bits of endive, though the texture was not quite what I would expect), was a piece of grilled, and probably lightly smoked rabbit loin. It added some interest to the texture, and also a slight smoky flavor. Not great or memorable but quite good, and matched well with the wine.
The Bride and Son accompanied me as this was a belated Birthday dinner for herself. They had, respectively, a potage st. germain (my son ordered this while pointing out he was doing it just to annoy me - as I had made a large batch of split pea soup that morning, which he declined to eat, but I digress), and a beet salad. The salad was frissee-like with a tangy vinaigrette, and some good, earthy chunks of beet. Also a small cracker and daub of some cheese, which I did not sample. Well executed.
The Son dispatched the soup quickly, stating it was about the cream, and other flavorings he mixed in. He did complain that the smoked pork belly tended to overwhelm the other flavors.
For my main course, I was given that evening's pork belly preparation. A crispy, chewy, long and lovingly cooked slab of bliss, with three cute, little rutabaga chunks, and a swoosh of a sweet reduction. Sweet, savory and crispy combined on the palate. Matched perfectly with the wine, and it was an exquisite bit of pork belly.
The bride had a bit of salmon served cassoulet-style: on a mound of beans, with some bits of smoked pork belly. I was not allowed to sample, but she did manage to finish it without me.
The son ordered the Guinea Hen farci, on a bed of cavola di nero (???) a crunchy and only very slightly bitter green. It was served surrounded with some finely chopped vegetables in a complex, acidic sauce with meyer lemon, among other things. I was allowed to sample that, and found the hen cooked perfectly, and the vegetables and sauce a good counterpoint to the sweet flavor of the hen.
I lobbied mildly for some cheese to enjoy as we finished the wine, but was not successful.
For dessert we enjoyed a chocolate mousse cake with sabayon and prunes, and a beignet with creme fraiche ice cream, cherries and fried sage. The prunes turned the son off, sadly, and the bride inhaled the beginet before I could get more than a taste. Both were excellent.
We neglected to ask for Ivar, but were served quite well, and able to experience the progress from a room 3/4 empty at 5:30, to quite full at 7:30.
My verdict is simple - an excellent and interesting meal, graciously served, and worth the price. For some, including my Son and Bride the reliance on pork belly in almost every dish went a bit far. In fact, the Son stated that the food "had one too many flavors in every dish, which seemed to overwhelm the others." The bride deemed the whole place a bit fussy, and silly, and sees no need to return. She did enjoy her food, however.
While I do not agree with their opinions, I pass them along as they were reacting to things that were really there. The food clearly strived for a complexity and contrast in flavor, and at times in concept (such as the salmon-based cassoulet improvisation, which sounds like a great idea to me), as opposed to a more familiar and harmonious deliciousness. It did not come together for the Son.
It also set me to thinking how places and meals such as at Trio, or Moto, both influence the food at Blackbird, and also how we perceive that food. It is a very adventurous time for chefs and fine dining. They can try anything, and are expected to challenge and amuse us, while providing delicious food. Blackbird was not serving anything really out there, and the cuisine struck me as more ingredient-driven, than concept-driven, but there were those touches. Do I now need such touches to deem a fine meal worthwhile? Perhaps I have become a culinary thrill-seeker???
As for the Bride's comment, the entire atmosphere of the place smacks more than a little of an uber-hipster 1960's or 1990's aesthetic, which she found off-putting. Such is the danger of places that are very hip - they quickly become out-of-date and eventually silly. Still, while I think the room and atmosphere of Blackbird have that issue, it strikes me more as a sort of entertainment than anything else. Somehow, it makes me want to dress as a beatnik the next time I go.
In any case, it is about what is on the plate, and Blackbird delivered a delectable and stimulating meal. If I had to categorize the food, it most put me in mind of a modern riff on Alsatian cuisine, at least on that night.
d
Feeling (south) loopy