September being National Bourbon Month, it seemed like a good time for my first visit to Louisville. I didn't spend much time on research but I figured I'd eat a Hot Brown, drink some bourbon and let the rest take care of itself.
When the Megabus deposited me downtown it was nearly 100 degrees. The bourbon can wait, I thought, it's time for a beer. Consulting the hotel tourist mag I found the nearest local brewpub, Bluegrass Brewing, and ordered an APA and a half-dozen wings. I was pretty impressed with both the beer and the wings.
I realized I was within walking distance of Dizzy Whizz, a venerable drive in I'd heard of before.
Dizzy Whizz, Since 1947
By this time I was pretty hungry so I threw caution to the winds and ordered the most expensive burger on the menu even though I had little idea what it comprised.
The Dizzinator
Turns out it's a 4-patty, 1-pound monstrosity. This thing was a glorious, horrifying mess but I lost interest about halfway through. I think sticking with the classic (and smaller) Whizzburger is probably the way to go. Still, a promising start and a slice of real Louisville.
I had intended to get my bourbon and Hot Brown that evening but hadn't slept a minute the night before so my short nap turned into 14 hours. Waking up refreshed but hungry I rolled the dice with my tourist mag and chose Hall's Cafeteria, in business since 1955. I wandered around the Butchertown area marveling at the spectacular old but mostly unrenovated homes and factories while getting hungrier and hungrier.
Story Avenue Underpass
Seeing this mural painted under route I-64, I thought it quaint until a minute later a semi full of pigs came barreling off the highway. I guess it's called Butchertown for a reason. Entering Hall's you have a choice: turn left to Hall's Thrift Shop or right for the cafeteria.
Hall's Cafeteria
Hall's is one of those nothing's special/everything's special places. Most of the customers, many still wearing hairnets from the Swift plant across the street, were gathered around the television, talking, drinking coffee and scratching lottery tickets (one guy won). Heading down the line, the day's meats were fried chicken, hamburger steak, and pork loin.
My Breakfast
I chose pork, mashed potatoes and Italian beans. I usually don't order dessert but the banana pudding topped with meringue called my name. Plain cooking to be sure but someone in the kitchen knows what they're doing. Only the somewhat dry corn muffins disappointed.
Then off for a walk in the blazing sun and what I thought would be a light late lunch.
Proof on Main
Proof's dinner menu was so much more appealing but there were several nice lunch dishes. The chef apparently is a fan of bison and there were two choices for lunch (and others for dinner). I went for a bison sandwich and decided to pair it with a salad.
Arugula, Roasted Squash and Ricotta Salata
Fantastic salad but filling beyond expectation.
House Cured Bison Pastrami Reuben
The sandwich wasn't huge but it was rich, with aioli substituting for thousand island. House made sauerkraut and pickles were nice complements. I think bison, being rather lean, isn't the best choice for pastrami but it was an interesting effort. Fries were grossly oversalted (if you read
this thread on Proof, you'll see this may be a recurring problem). Not a perfect meal but I'd like to further explore the intriguing menu.
Still determined to get my bourbon I walked over to
Jockey Silks to find not a soul in the place. As I was trying to decide whether to go in, a flock of loud conventioneers sat at the bar and that clinched it. I hopped on a bus to visit another outpost of Bluegrass Brewing. The weather was better suited to beer.
Wandering around looking for the brewery I happened upon the local bison emporium, at the edge of Butchertown not too far from Hall's Cafeteria.
Kentucky Bison Company
I wouldn't be surprised if Kentucky Bison supplies Proof with their meat.
So I never did get any bourbon or a Hot Brown but I liked Louisville and hope to return soon and take care of that unfinished business.
Bluegrass Brewing Co
650 S 4th St
502-568-2224
and
636 E Main St
502-584-BREW
and other locations
Louisville KY
Dizzy Whizz
217 W St Catherine St
Louisville KY
502-583-FOOD
Hall's Cafeteria
1301 Story Av
Louisville KY
502-583-0438
Proof on Main
702 W Main St
Louisville KY
502-217-6360
Kentucky Bison Co
603 E Main St
Louisville KY
502-562-9491