I got delayed in Chicago, so we ended up getting to Cafe Borgia about 8 pm last night when there were 7 or 8 tables of folks still eating. I agree with you, Mark, about the noise. The ceiling looks to be nearly three stories high so there was a dull ambient roar which kept me from hearing what the people at the next table were talking about, nor could I hear the young child sitting a couple tables away. Since there were only two of us, we could hear each other without shouting, but I'd hate to be there during the height of the dinner rush. Except the room might have been warmer with more bodies to heat it; I was grateful for my sweater.
For appetizers we got the mixed olives, the grilled calimari, and the white anchovies. The anchovies were off the cold menu and came pickled atop a pile of diced pickled eggplant which also had a touch of sweetness from the onions. A pile of white beans cooked with a green veggie--escarole? It didn't look or taste like fennel--was under the calimari. We shared the pear and mixed green salad with gorgonzola which I thought could have used more of the advertised pine nuts. And the raspberry vinegrette was too syrupy for me, though my friend liked it.
Our mains--the duck ragout and the baccala--were both good without being especially memorable, aside from the deliciously crispy potato cubes that came with the baccala. For dessert my friend had the pear crostata--a pastry disk topped with cooked, chopped pear. I asked after the Italian gelati and was told that one of the flavors was cookies and cream, which I found so hard to believe that I asked the waiter for the source. He couldn't tell me and didn't offer to find out, so I gave up and got the mango sorbetto which had enough intensity of flavor to satisfy me.
The wine list doesn't include the vintage years. We ordered by the glass which meant the the wine arrived in little carafes that the waiter poured into the wineglass brought at the same time. My friend's Stella Montepulciano was delicious and served in a big wine glass. I took a chance on the Falling Star cabernet (Argentina) which was nothing special compared to the Montepulciano and was poured into a less voluminous glass. I have no idea who produced the grappa I had at the end of the meal. I was taken aback, at first, by its pinkness--not a color I associate with grappa--but then figured out that the color came from the large red lamps hanging from the ceiling.
Anyway, I might have pursued answers to my questions more aggressively, but this was a birthday celebration, so I focussed on the my friend rather than quizzing the waiters about all the missing details on the menu. While I enjoyed the meal, and the waitstaff was nice and attentive, I wouldn't to make Cafe Borgia a destination independent of my friend who lives in the area.