Thank you to everyone for the suggestions...Here's a brief wrap-up from three weeks of criss-crossing Central and Southern Wisconsin. Most of my notes are from memory and I forgot the camera, so it’s not super detailed, but perhaps a can function as a signpost if you happen to find yourself stuck in one of these smaller towns:
Wausau, Wisconsin
We ate at the Hereford & Hops our first night, one of those "only in the Midwest" places where you pick your own steak out of a glass-doored refrigerator and grill it yourself on one of the three large charcoal fire pits scattered through the restaurant. (Or pay $2 to have someone cook it for you). They also had their own beer on tap. The steak was just fine, the communal atmosphere pleasant, and the beer was ok. Not a place I would go to again in a heartbeat or anything, but fine if you’re being dragged out with others.
Hereford & Hops
2305 Sherman Street
Wausau, WI 54401
Phone: (715) 849-3700
http://www.foodspot.com/herefordandhops/menu.html
For lunch on the second day, I wrestled my crew over to the downtown grocery and met Kevin. Excellent salad bar, with many unusual offerings (herring amongst them); great little organic/local grocery; and hot dishes were enjoyed by those that partook. I dig these kinds of places, and I’m glad it’s doing well.
Downtown grocery
607 Third Street
Wausau WI 54403
Phone/Fax 715-848-9800
http://www.downtowngrocery.com/
Sunday night is, evidently, the night for every single restaurant in Wausau to be closed. Wagon Wheel Supper club: closed. Lucci’s Back When Café: closed. (BTW, some others in my group went there for lunch the next day, and were very disappointed in the food and service.) Two other places we tried: closed. For dinner, we ended up at Sawadee Thai restaurant, which was pretty good. Not the best Thai I had on tour, but very respectable, surprisingly spicy enough, good squid, Hmong families dining there, and open on Sunday night. What more can you ask for?
Sawadee Thai Restaurant
1720 Merrill Ave
Wausau, WI 54401
(715) 675-1890
Another lunch was at the Mint Café, which certainly isn’t a secret by any means but is straight-up, classic and great diner food. I was in a salad phase, so got the taco salad, which was lighter and less greasy than the norm. I was, however, quite envious of my dining partner’s hot beef, which was a classic of the genre; also great milkshakes, burgers, etc. My favorite thing on the menu might have been the “Wisconsin Vegetable platter” which featured fried broccoli, fried cauliflower, and fried cheese curds. The kitchen was worth noting for turning out our 13-top’s food in an unbelievably short period of time.
Mint Café
422 N 3rd Ave
Wausau, WI 54401
(715) 845-5879
The last night, we had pizza at the bowling alley, which I mention only for the fact that they would not serve me a beer until I went back to the hotel and produced an ID. I’m 36. The beer was watery and warm, but the pizza was hot and the bowling inexpensive. Wednesday nights are dollar night.
Mountain Lanes
1401 Elm St
Wausau, WI 54401
(715) 845-4331
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin
My one great find of the tour was here, and is unfortunately not a restaurant, but a liquor store with an unbelievably good selection of wine. Kelly’s liquors, sandwiched in a strip mall between a Perkins and a Pizza Hut, sure looks unprepossessing from the outside, and once you get inside, the 1.75 liter plastic bottles of cheap whiskey up near the front might put you off. But you must push on into a fantastic wine selection at really good prices. I got a 1992 Riesling Kabinett in great condition (a little scary, right, a 92, but what the heck?) and a 2000 Bordeaux (not from a famous chateau or anything, but still…) each for $9.99. Quite possibly, the two best bottles of $10 wine I’ve ever had. This place is a find. I would have bought a case, had I had room in my suitcase.
Kelly's Liquor Store
2131 8th St S
Wisconsin Rapids, WI 54494
(715) 423-0591
The Jamaican place, was, as advertised, great and friendly, and an incredible boost to a (mostly) fast-food wasteland. The owners were awfully nice and the food was great. I got the jerk pork and pineapple and tasted pretty much everyone else’s food, and it was all dynamite.
Jamaican Kitchens
161 2nd St N
Wisconsin Rapids, WI 54494
(715) 421-3930
http://www.jamaicankitchens.com
Café Mulino, in the Hotel Mead, was a decent lunch spot. I’m not big on restaurant Italian, but the selections were more interesting than most, and they serve the obligatory salad and bread to the table in a short span of time (I was starving!) My tuna salad sandwich was a more interesting take on the typical fare: grilled tuna, in chunks, with a lemon-caper aioli as the binder, served on a soft cibatta bun. The bread could have been harder, the aioli less greasy, but the carrot chips that came with the sandwich rocked. All in all, several steps above Olive Garden, and a better choice than the Taco John’s down the street.
Café Mulino
In the Hotel Mead
451 E Grand Ave
Wisconsin Rapids, WI 54494
715-423-1500
Manitowoc, Wisconsin
Struck by the Sunday curse yet again (we were going to try Courthouse Pub), we ended up for dinner at Hacienda Santa Rosa, a self-billed “Mexican sports bar and restaurant.” The food was a notch above the usual Tex-Mex offers you might expect…I had stewed pork in chile sauce which was pretty tasty, although not mind-blowing. I would offer this as a good, not great, stop, but with an authentic flair. One of the curious things on the menu was an offer to prepare “any Mexican dish not on the menu if you are interested.” I would think, from that claim, if you were looking for something with a little more authenticity, and they had the means to provide it, they would. If only I spoke Spanish…
Hacienda Santa Rosa Mexican Restaurant
3535 Calumet Ave.
Manitowoc, WI 54220
920-652-9244
We stopped for lunch the next day on our way out of town at Beernstens’ Confectionary, a great little old-fashioned sandwich, ice cream, and candy shop, replete with wooden booths, anthropomorphic chocolates, and waitresses who call everyone “honey.” I got the lunch special of Italian meats on cibatta, which was better than the Italian place in the last city, and tried the ice cream, which was out of this world. My sandwich, at $5.95, might have been the most expensive thing on the menu; most prices seemed to hover around the $3 mark.
Beernstens’ Confectionary
108 N 8th St,
Manitowoc, WI
(920) 684-9616
Whitewater, Wisconsin
I had been warned about Whitewater being a vast food wasteland, but the two stops that were recommended turned out to be quite decent indeed. Tokyo, a sushi/Japanese place, is in a small storefront right on the main drag. You can order sushi by the piece or other traditional Japanese-American dishes (teriyaki, tempura, etc.) The sushi certainly was not the best I’ve ever had, but it was pretty good for a storefront in the middle of Whitewater. The mackerel, especially, was good. Not worth a stop if you’re driving by on the highway, but if you find yourself there, this is where you should go to eat.
Tokyo
161 W Main Street
Whitewater, WI 53190-2510
Phone: (262) 473-3000
We went to Karina’s Mexican the next day for lunch, and similarly to the place in Mantiowoc, it was good, not great. I again had the pork in red chile sauce, and as a lunch special for $4.95, I felt that it was a good experience and I got my money’s worth. In no way comparable to a great taqueria in Chicago, but for Whitewater…it was pretty good.
Karina’s Mexican Restaurant
109 S 1st St
Whitewater, WI 53190
(262) 472-9492
Sauk City, WI
Leystra’s Venture Restaurant, in Sauk City, is your average diner experience, complete with old-timers whiling away their time at cards in the front booths, and the meeting of the knitters’ club in the party room at noon. The food was fine, the coffee was hot, and the pies were tasty. Not the greatest diner in the world…not the worst. Just fine.
Leystra’s Venture Restaurant
200 Phillips Blvd
Sauk City, WI 53583
(608) 643-2004
Dorf Haus might qualify as a minor find, actually. The ambience seems kind of authentically German, the beer is served in huge glass steins, and my dining partner’s pork shank with sauerkraut (Schweinsbraten) was really good. The spatzle was unremarkable, my flour dumpling in brown gravy was a little better. My jagerschnitzel was also good (a little too bready for my tastes). The salad bar was filled, naturally, with iceberg lettuce and bac-o’s, but that’s so Wisconsin, I’m actually starting to get used to it. I’d go back to the Dorf Haus. (And as I only live 20 miles away, I probably will.)
Dorf Haus
8931 County Road Y
Sauk City, WI 53583
(608) 643-3980
http://www.foodspot.com/dorfhaus/
The Carr Valley Cheese Store is certainly worth a stop. They have several around the Wisconsin area, and I was sort of surprised at the large number of cheeses for sale. I had thought of Carr Valley as just a place that made good Cheddars, but the breadth of their selection surprised me, including a large roster of blues. I got the Benedictine, a washed rind cheese made with fresh sheep, goat and cow milk, that was really awesome. Okay, this is something Wisconsin does really really well.
Carr Valley Store
807 Phillips Blvd.
Sauk City, WI 53583
(608)643-3441
http://www.carrvalleycheese.com/about.html
A happy little find, El Paisano is a combination Mexican grocery/taqueria on the main drag (Water Street). I got a tostada el pastor, which was a fine rendition. The most exciting thing was that their salsa verde almost took my head off. As a huge over-generalization, and I realize that there are many, many exceptions to the rule, I find that the tolerance of spice and spiciness is not as intense in the Midwest as it is on the East Coast (where I’m from, originally.) So it’s kind of cool to douse your tostada in salsa verde, expecting it to be generically mild, and then to bite in and have tears instantly form in your eyes. As Wisconsin becomes increasingly multi-ethnic across the state (and, yes, there’s still a long, long, way to go), the surprising Asian (Hmong) and Mexican storefronts seem to be what to search out if you’re stuck in a little town with no ideas about where to go.
El Paisano
545 Water St
Prairie du Sac, WI 53578
(608) 643-4707
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Milwaukee has certainly been covered many times, in much more detail, that I will only say that I had the best sushi here of the trip (Nanakusa- try the scallop and the sea bream) and the best, and spiciest, Thai (Thai Palace). Also, if you are really wanting to go to Three Brothers for Serbian food, make a reservation, no matter what the concierge at the hotel tells you.
Nankusa Japanese Restaurant
408 E Chicago St
Milwaukee, WI 53202
(414) 223-3200
Thai Palace
838 N Old World 3rd St
Milwaukee, WI
(414) 224-7076
Three Brothers Bar & Restaurant
2414 S. St. Clair
Milwaukee, WI 53207
(414) 481-7530
Appleton, Wisconsin
My only day off happened in Appleton, so I have more comments here than anywhere else on the tour. The Indian place, Sairam, that had been very well recommended, was not worth the two mile walk from my hotel, unfortunately. I found this to be ok Indian buffet, watered down for American tastes, with a lot of flavors that blended together. I cook better Indian. Man, I dream about Devon Street sometimes. I suppose if you have never eaten Indian, it would be good, but I grew up eating a lot of Indian and Vietnamese, so I’m extra picky about those places, I guess. (BTW, totally off-thread, but I ate at the GNR winner, Shan Grocery, in Chicago two weekends ago, and it was awesome. I think our dinner tab, for two, with tip, was $16. Thank you, LTH.)
Sairam Indian Cuisine
253 W Northland Ave
Appleton, WI 54911
(920) 733-3003
Fortunately, next door is Koreana, which is a very nice Korean place, although on the pricey side. (Appetizer, entrée, small bottle of chilled sake was about $35). I got the shumai (don’t bother) and the pork stew with kimchi, which was great. On the bartender’s advice, I ordered it “medium”, and that was perfectly spicy and flavorful, with a ton of little sides to dip and swirl in the broth. It could have fed an army. Highly recommended.
Koreana Restaurant
201 W Northland Ave
Appleton, WI 54911
(920) 733-3205
Being very full, I didn’t get the chance to try The Pasty Koop, a small storefront pasty deli, but walking in there and smelling the pasties made me determined to try it next time I’m in Appleton.
The Pasty Koop
135 E Wisconsin Ave
Appleton, WI 54911
Phone: (920) 830-0896
I got take-out at Apollon Resturant the next night, which was very good. Nice lamb, well prepared and tender, without a lot of gaminess, in a flavorful mushroom and wine sauce, with good veggies and risotto on the side. This would be the next place to go, if Koreana seemed too adventurous for others in your group.
Apollon Restaurant
207 N. Appleton St.
Appleton, WI 54911
(920) 739-1122
http://www.apollonrestaurant.com
I include Taste of Thai here only as a warning to others. Possibly the worst Thai place I have ever eaten in. My dining partner and I ordered two different dishes, with different levels of spiciness (hers – 2; mine – 5) and they came out, well, exactly the same, except there were potatoes swimming in her goopy orange coconut-creamy broth and green beans in mine. Walk on by.
Taste of Thai
321 E College Ave
Appleton, WI 54911
(920) 830-2030
The Live Oak Market does a nice build-your-own salad and sandwich for lunch, with baby lettuces and spinach (Hooray!) and a variety of toppings. Also, they feature hummus, sushi, soup, and tapenades in grab-and-go sizes, along with a selection of wine, beer, and other groceries. Worth a little stop, although Flanagan’s down the street had a better selection of wines, and an amazing beer selection. I think I would have been very impressed with Flanagan’s had I not found Kelly’s earlier in the trip.
Live Oak Market
119 E. College Avenue
Appleton, WI 54911
(920) 882-6737
Flanagan’s Stop and Shop
522 W College Ave,
Appleton, WI
(920) 733-6689
http://www.flanagansstopandshop.com/
I will say that Flanagan’s Wine Review, in the next storefront, was not worth the side trip. Practically Chicago-area prices at a snooty little bar/bistro where I had had every single one of the wines by the glass except one, a pinot noir from the Wilmette Valley, for $14. $14 for a glass of domestic wine seems like a stretch for central Wisconsin, especially when there is a nice wine store right next door. It was very full the night I was in, though, with plenty of the older, moneyed, “see and be seen” crowd from Appleton. I did not try the food, so I cannot speak to it.
Flanagan’s Wine Review
528 W College Ave
Appleton, WI
(920) 749-9463
http://www.flanaganswinereview.com
All right, I have already admitted my bias against Italian restaurants, but Victoria’s seems to be coasting on reputation alone at this point. It is indeed inexpensive, and you do get a ton of food for the price. But cheap and big is not necessarily the way to go, especially when the ingredients are canned and inferior, your waitress doesn’t know how to open a bottle of wine, much less pour it, and sauces are one-dimensional. The bread was really good. My salad was okay (at least not iceberg), but my pasta frutta di mare was filled with crappy olive oil, not enough garlic, and canned chopped baby clams and tiny rubbery salad shrimp.
Victoria’s
503 W College Ave
Appleton, WI 54911
(920) 730-9595
Madison, Wisconsin
The last stop was Madison, which again, has been covered thoroughly by others (and this is where I go to go out, so it’s familiar stomping grounds for me.) I will mention that I had my second visit to Eno Vino, which I think is doing great small plates right now. In particular, I had a really wonderful pheasant with a truffled fig risotto. I also had my first breakfast at Mickie’s Dairy Bar (Reuben omelet, which sounds weird but was awesome), which I would go back to…and wait in line again…in a heartbeat.
Eno Vino Wine Bar and Bistro
601 Junction Rd
Madison, WI 53717
(608) 664-9565
http://www.eno-vino.com
Mickie’s Dairy Bar
1511 Monroe St.
Madison, WI.
608-256-9476