I have enjoyed Erwin's food since I first encountered it at (if memory serves) Bentley’s Wine Bar during the Pleistocene. (It was Erwin who introduced me to the Umbrian olive oil, Mancianti, when a friend asked about the flavor in a dish and Erwin emerged from the kitchen to do some show-and-tell.)
From there it was on to the Metropolis Café, then the larger, glitzier Metropolis 1800 in the ill-fated retail development on Clybourn and then
Erwin. Unfortunately, at Erwin I also had enough disconcerting experiences with the front-of-house side of things that years passed between visits. Even last night, as I approached the door knowing that our 2nd couple was running late, I felt myself tensing up, ready for an argument or a scolding at the host station.
Happily, we had not only an excellent meal---start to finish---but a completely enjoyable experience from the moment we set foot in the door until it closed behind us as we left.
I was greeted warmly by the host as I came in. Mrs. B. was already at the bar with a glass of cava. After a pleasant, informative chat with the barman about beers I was unfamiliar with, I settled in with a weiss bier and began shoveling down the fresh, crisp, lightly peppered potato chips from the enormous bowl at the bar as we awaited our friends. Far from any signs of annoyance that we were going to back things up on a Fri. at prime time, the host came over after 5-10 min. to say that he’d be happy to seat us if we wished, or we could just continue to wait at the bar. I needed a few more chips, so we stayed put.
Our friends arrived and we were immediately seated. Being fairly close to both Timeline Theatre on Wellington and the Century multiplex on Clark, the first thing our server asked was if we were under any time pressure. We weren’t, but it’s nice that this is part of their thinking.
Excellent bread and a white bean spread came with the menus almost immediately.
The menu is relatively small but, it seems to me, very well balanced between American/bistro/comfort standards (burger, flank steak, Amish chicken, crab cakes) for the non-adventurous and very appealing more creative dishes. Along with the regular menu was a list of 5 or 6 specials as well as a 3-course pre-fixe. (An incredibly reasonable $18, if I recall.)
Scanning the regular menu and specials card, it didn’t seem as if there was a wasted or a throwaway item. I would have been happy to choose blindfolded. (One of our number eats fish but not meat and asked if the trout could be made sans lardons. No problem.) Among the many items giving me a tough time choosing amongst were: (caveat: this is from memory and may not be entirely accurate descriptions)
Horseradish caraway beets—ricotta salata, almonds, red onion marmalade, endive
fried gr. tomatoes, corn meal crust
tagliatelle w/ braised pheasant, pancetta, grana
calf liver creamy mustard turnips, sherry pan de-glaze
a duck/venison treatment with braised red cabbage
mushroom cakes made with lentils, spinach and Israeli couscous
mackerel and baby octopus in a treatment that involved spanish olives (probably should have opted for this instead of the less adventurous seafood stew; cant’ recall why I didn’t.)
What we had:Apps: Mrs. B. made a meal of 2 apps. A simple mesclun salad but perfectly dressed with a very nice mustard vinaigrette, and smoky “riblets” which she pronounced very good. I didn’t learn what was on the side, but it looked like it may have been the smoked gouda mashed potatoes and something else. The portion, as with everything, was very generous for a $9 appetizer.
One friend started with the duck liver pate recommended by the waitress. It was delicious. Very moist, soft, and spreadable style it was well served by the dark bread and mustard that accompanied it.
I ordered, and thoroughly enjoyed, the chicken liver appetizer. Like everything we had, the hallmark was a quiet, unshowy balance among ingredients/textures/flavors. The chicken livers were beautifully crusty on the outside, smooth and tender within. They were tossed with Brussels sprouts leaves and some golden raisins (just the right amount), shallots, and capers in a walnut oil vinaigrette. I could happily have made a meal of this.
Entrees:One friend had the skate. The menu description provoked some concern that this treatment would be too sweet, as it included rutabaga, apples, and deglazing with Moscato. The server assured us it was only a touch sweet, and she was right. Delicious.
Friend’s husband had the lardons-free trout with Brussels sprouts and marcona almond basil butter. I’ve forgotten what the sides were but he was very happy with it, pronouncing it both moist and smoky even without the bacon.
Having started with the chicken livers I forced myself not to follow up with the sautéed calf’s liver (a dish I dearly love when done well, and one you seldom see any more. Avanzare used to do a great fegato a la veneziana, as did the former Melange up in Plaza del Lago). Opted for the seafood stew in tomato clam broth. Lovely broth, perfectly cooked large shrimp, large scallops (probably perfect by most people’s standard, though I prefer my scallops about 30 seconds more done), and about a half dozen mussels that were all plump and tender. Ultimately, as nice as it was, it was a bit on the tame side. But that was an ordering issue. The dish was exactly as described.
Dessert:Mrs. B. had Michigan tart cherry pie (no one makes a better version of this than Mrs. B. herself, and she pronounced it very good. It came a la mode.) Again, a very generous portion.
I had the goat cheese lemon soufflé cake served with fresh strawberries, blueberries, whipped cream and some balsamic syrup underneath. Terrific. Both rich and light. Everything about it was in sync---the goatiness was present but restrained, the lemon was a hint but more than a whisper, the cake was moist, the whipped cream was just sweet enough, the berries were plentiful and flavorful, and the balsamic syrup wasn’t trying to show off, take over the conversation, and get in everyone’s face.
Can't speak to the skills behind the bar vis a vis the current cocktail renaissance. Our friends had traditional martinis to begin and Irish coffee with dessert. Happy with both.
Throughout the meal either the waitress herself or someone on the team appeared tableside if I even glanced up (usually for more bread to soak up something yummy). Pacing was exactly right and no one tried to clear anything before its time.
I was using one of the $25 gift certificates we got during the big Restaurant.com sale last fall (to which we were alerted courtesy of a post here). Our total for four (2 glasses wine, 2 martinis, 1 Irish coffee, 1 beer, 5 apps, 3 entrees, 2 desserts + tax would have been about $210 without the GC.
If you’re a bit strapped there’s the prix fixe option, if your feeling more flush you’re still going to get out for about $80 (tax and tip incl.) eating the most expensive items on the menu and drinking moderately. With a Restaurant.com gift cert., that becomes a genuine bargain.
With such variable experiences over the years, last night's was exactly what I hope for a small, chef-owned , neighborhood place to be. Erwin was visible at the entrance and circulating a bit. (And reminding me a lot of a younger Alan Arkin.) The menu was small, manageable, centrist but very carefully judged, interesting, and well executed across the board. Prices were reasonable, portions generous, service smooth and friendly.
"Strange how potent cheap music is."