A quick visit to Marigold last evening. Bottom line: this is not an Indian restaurant serving traditional Indian food. This is an Indian restaurant taking classic Indian cuisine as a starting point and then venturing off. Sometimes the dishes stick close to the original, sometimes there is little in common. We’d been stand-offish, largely because of the pricing: virtually all the regular entrees are over $16, which strikes us as steep. Still, we decided the time had come and so were pleasantly surprised to be seated and to see the “specials” card had about half a dozen entrees, all of which (if memory serves) were well under the “regular” prices.
The restaurant seems to have two rooms: the front room which is much lighter, thanks to a large window fronting on Broadway, and the “back” room, behind the maitre d’s stand, partly obscured by a curtain and apparently much darker (neither of us had occasion to wander back that way. One thing immediately struck us: the substantial amount of room. Tables, at least up front where we were, are quite widely spaced. It’s unexpected, unusual, and very nice. After so many places trying to cram in as many tables as possible, it’s a very nice change of pace to have so much room between tables. I don’t know what’s behind the curtain, but in the front it was spacious and that helped contribute to a relaxed feel.
We arrived early—about 5:30 and there was one other couple there. By the time we left, perhaps another ten couples (or larger groups) had arrived. Furnishings are relatively sparse but the interior felt comfy and vaguely Indian (thanks primarily to some hanging light fixtures). Otherwise, it could be a restaurant of any indefinite ethnicity.
Our server, Brian, was excellent. He knew the menu, the ingredients in the dishes, the heat level, and was extremely accommodating. The Lovely Dining Companion has virtually no tolerance for spicy heat (whereas I enjoy very spicy food). Brian made a comment early on, in the course of a discussion about various dishes and their spice levels: the spice level is, in general, calibrated to midwestern tastes. We found that interesting and somewhat disappointing. In the event, I didn’t order something that was spicy, so I have no easy way to judge. There is a vindaloo on the menu and I managed to forget to ask just how spicy it was/is.
The menu itself is not particularly large, though the dishes seem to be carefully chosen to reflect a reasonably wide range of choices. We ordered samosas and a “special” app, dal makhani (as reported on by BR, two posts previous to this). Urad, or black, lentils, with tomato, among other things. It’s ordinarily a creamy dal but this was much heavier and richer; I enjoyed it more than BR did two years ago). The samosas (two of them) came with a mint chutney and an onion/date chutney. The former was fine, if unexceptional, and the latter, sweet, spicy, and with a very nice depth of flavor—albeit not particularly including onion. We both enjoyed the beginning and thought the two apps auspicious.

Samosas as presented, with mint chutney and onion/date chutney

Samosa, mid-bite.

Dal makani

A nice presentation, to be sure. But a bit hard to navigate.
Unfortunately, it was not quite to be. LDC had the fish special, a sea bass crusted with smoked paprika (!) and served on a bed of lentils—again, flavorful without being spicy. I thought her fish had a fishy-ness to it that I didn’t care for. She didn’t find it fishy in the least and, since she’s generally much more sensitive to that issue, I’ll defer to her judgment. She enjoyed her dish quite a bit and even I will concede that the fish was cooked nicely and tasted good. When LDC detected some spice (which I couldn’t find and Brian couldn’t account for), she ordered a side of cucumer raita. It was pleasant, chock full of cubed cucumber, but the yogurt was less tangy than I expected.

I elected, in the end, to go with a classic: chicken korma. I was unprepared for the chicken, which was largely dark meat, or for the sauce, which instead of normally creamy smooth, was not at all. The flavors were muted at best. This was a classic example of why not to calibrate (or in Brian’s immaculate phrasing, “dumbed down”) the flavors. It just didn’t work. It might work for someone completely new to Indian cuisine. But for someone expecting an iteration of a classic dish, it just didn’t make it. Very disappointing in the end. I’ll echo what BR noted above, albeit less enthusiastically: “this is not certainly not where you go for the most authentic Indian food in Chicago.” Creative, perhaps, though I’m inclined to say the food is not authentic because the intention has been to render the standard spicing more bland.

Marigold’s take on chicken korma
The naan was downright odd. Not at all “pillowy” like the bread normally is, the two pieces served had residual pools of oil from the fryer.

Odd, though fine-tasting, naan
Dessert, which I reluctantly agreed to share, was a revelation. Kheer: a rice pudding with rose water and cardamom, with pistachio and slivered almonds. Intensely flavored, rich, almost buttery. The single best dish of kheer I can remember ever having. Too often, it is watered (or milked) down and shorted on the expensive ingredients. Not this version, though. Everything that is supposed to be in the dish was and in abundance. A simply spectacular version.

Kheer to die for....
Bottom line: great apps, great dessert, one good/one fair entrée for $63 before tip. Too expensive in our combined judgment. Spicing aside, the food was well-prepared and nicely presented, but as germuska said upthread, there’s a distinct sense of style over substance. We wouldn’t get kheer like this on Devon (at least I never have) but the other dishes would have been as good or better and probably half the price. Will we go again? Probably. But with a much better understanding of what we (at least) think is going on.
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)