My own opinion:
There is some very good ingredient selection and caring preparation going on at Tamale Hut Cafe, a bright, spacious room on the corner of 1st Avenue and Cermak/22nd in North Riverside.
As stated in the restaurant's history printed on every menu, "tamales are typically not made every day due to the labor involved. They are made for special occasions." They are one of my favorite foods, and hard to find fresh (or at all, except for the Chicago fast-food version at Buona and Portillo's). Of the places that do have them nearly every day, my preferred tamales are at Xni-Pec (chicken "vaporcitos"), Frontera, and Fonda del Mar.
Jaime at THC obviously shares our interest in this humble, wonderful festival food, as he started a restaurant themed around it in early 2006. His menu features eight regular types of tamal for about $2 each:
Pork with green salsa
Chicken with green salsa
Cheese with jalapeno rajas and onions
Spinach with cheese and red salsa
Broccoli with cheese, bell peppers, and red salsa
Crab with red salsa
Pinto beans and green salsa
Coconut and pineapple
Other friends in the area have pointed out that he rotates a ninth in and out of the menu, which is currently a chicken mole.
On my first visit today, I enjoyed a pork tamal and a cheese with rajas, both exceptional. Very moist, a strong fresh corn flavor, and good fillings. The pork was very simple - Jaime stated that it was steamed pork butt, cleaned very carefully to be lean, and dressed just in a little tomatillo salsa before assembling. The rajas was more complex and melted on the palate. The red and green table salsas (.20 to go, free in house) were blended very smooth, and while quite good, made me wish for a Xni-Pec coarsely chopped pico de gallo to offer more texture contrast.
Jaime also made me a generous paper boat full of elote, which was steamed and shaved directly off of the cob, instead of roasted on a grill or fire, which is in my experience more typical and flavorful. However, the quality of corn this summer made it irresistable, and it the lime juice, mayo, melted butter, crumbled cotija cheese and spicy red pepper pushed it way over. Since he had just prepared a full pan of tinga for the dinner rush, he also sent over four chips with this shredded chicken and chipotle stew and some sour cream. It was rewardingly salty and smoky, but had few other notes: I confirmed that he uses canned/jarred peppers in sauce for the marinade instead of hand-roasting them.
At 3 PM on a Monday, there was nobody else in the restaurant, which has the atmosphere of a Chipotle or Baja Fresh (somewhat corporate, floor to ceiling windows, carpet, metal-composite tables and chairs). As I ate, though, two different customers came in and filled big tamale orders. Jaime sells by the dozen to go, cold (unsteamed) but not frozen. With the bright ambience, steam trays, and lack of creature comforts it's not the ideal place for a big group dinner, but the food is simple, delicious, very fresh, and prepared with much pride and care. I can recommend it without hesitation and will be certain to stop on future trips westward.
Tamale Hut Cafe, Inc.
8300 W. Cermak
North Riverside, IL
(708) 442-0948
M-F 6:30 AM - 9 PM
Saturday 8:30 AM - 9 PM
Sunday 8:30 AM - 6 PM
(all times as of August 2007)