Cow bacon.
No, that's not quite right: it's not smoked.
Beef pancetta? Thick cut? But not salt cured?
Hmm.
Steer belly. Bull lardons?
I've never had anything quite like Uncle John's new brisket. It is totally bereft of gristle, richly fatty, and completely melts in your mouth. It is also moist, almost aspic-like, with an overwhelmingly pure beef flavor. You can practically taste the grass. There is no smoke (as mentioned, he has it in a rotisserie immediately to the right of the entrance), just beef, mild seasonings, and lots of warm oil, which it is either marinated in or briefly returned to before serving (would that be blasphemy?) Mine was piping, burning hot when served, yet still on the rare side of medium. I must have received 2/3+ of a pound, not including a handful of fries and two slices of white bread (the way Honky Tonk should be doing it).
The slices indicated a brisket (and cow) of prodigious size, unless it was cut at a severe diagonal. There were no crispy ends to speak of; it was mouthwatering beef fat sheltering a small eye of tender steak. Glistening with fat as it was, it did not immediately look appealing, and I was taken aback by the first bite, missing that Uncle John smoke, but then the wall of genuine beef flavor was right in front of me. I thoroughly enjoyed it, but it defies comparison with the standard burnt-ends or crisp-crusted stringy places, and to the delis and buffet carving stations as well.
Also new (in general, or just to me): Mason jars of Mack's sauce for $6, jelly jars for $2.75, mostly unlabelled ("you got to refrigerate this, honey"), and two tiny tubs of coleslaw, one standard and one violently yellow and particularly delicious, with lots of what I think is Coleman's mustard powder, celery salt, and fresh black pepper. The brisket was $8 and there was plenty of it sitting in the rotisserie even after the lunch rush. The order-taker shouted "he wants the BEEF" back to Mack to indicate my choice. I did indeed.