Beef Stew and Latkes [Pictures]

LTH,

My bride religiously works the Tribune Sunday magazine crossword, which means she checks out the recipes a page or two down, this week Raeanne Sazazen's Beef Stew spoke to her, which meant Beef Stew for dinner.

It's not a complicated recipe, but there are a few stages, and good stew does not like to be rushed. I made a few minor changes and additions, most notably adding two courses of mushrooms. Recipe here

Beef Stew


As Latkes are currently in season I made a batch to go with the Beef Stew. I'm a traditionalist, potato, onion, garlic on a box grater, salt, pepper, egg and matzo meal.* Fry, eat, repeat.

Latkes



Simple salad of cucumber, sour cream with a dash of lemon and shake of dill.


A hearty cold weather meal thanks to my wife's love of crossword puzzles.


The only problem, if one can call it a problem, is the full recipe, which I made, yields over a gallon of beef stew.


After it's chilled down I'll portion it off, vacuum seal and freeze for hearty mid winter meals.


Enjoy,
Gary

*I substituted flour as I was out of matzo meal.

Garlic in latkes? Might be good, but traditional it's not. Now, frying latkes in goose schmaltz....that's traditional.

kuhdo wrote:Garlic in latkes? Might be good, but traditional it's not. Now, frying latkes in goose schmaltz....that's traditional.

Don,

One man's tradition is another man's shanda.

Fresh out of goose, chicken and duck fat or I would have used one. I have lard, two types, but it just didn't seem right.

Enjoy,
Gary

I am the Latke maker in our family and i made them three times this weekend for 3 seperate parties. I use Gary's method as it is the only one that I find yields a latke that is not doughy which i will not abide during chanukah.

Couple of questions...what methods have you used to get rid of the potato starch and water that is a byproduct of the latke making process. i have tried everything and cant get the moisture out to my satisfaction. i rinse, shove through a sieve, leave out overnight to dry and still i have goopy batter when it comes time to make latkes and i really have to work the last few pancakes when im forming them which makes me think im leaving some of my precious batter in the bowl rather then on the griddle. Any one have a suggestion for this?

Also, what kind of oil do you use. Tradition means peanut to me but due to little ones with allergies i found myself using canola oil which didnt get as hot, or so it seemed. I also seem to use a lot more oil then gary appears to (at least 1/4 inch in the pan) we then drain them on brown paper shopping bags and do a quick refry which makes them very crispy and keeps them warm just prior to service. This seems to beat putting them in the oven on low heat to keep them warm which always leads to drying them out (disaster). Thoughts?

iblock9 wrote:Couple of questions...what methods have you used to get rid of the potato starch and water that is a byproduct of the latke making process. i have tried everything and cant get the moisture out to my satisfaction. i rinse, shove through a sieve, leave out overnight to dry and still i have goopy batter when it comes time to make latkes and i really have to work the last few pancakes when im forming them which makes me think im leaving some of my precious batter in the bowl rather then on the griddle. Any one have a suggestion for this?

Also, what kind of oil do you use. Tradition means peanut to me but due to little ones with allergies i found myself using canola oil which didnt get as hot, or so it seemed.

I use the method where you put the grated potato/onion mixture inside a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out all the water before adding the matzo meal, salt and other ingredients. This results in a very dry batter that cooks up very crisp every time. Concerning peanut oil, according to Alton Brown, most folks are allergic to the proteins in peanuts, not the oil. He claims that many people with peanut allergies can safely eat foods cooked in peanut oil. Of course, he's just some guy on TV, so you might want to double check that with an allergist or the Department of Homeland security.

G Wiv wrote:

kuhdo wrote:Garlic in latkes? Might be good, but traditional it's not. Now, frying latkes in goose schmaltz....that's traditional.

Don,

One man's tradition is another man's shanda.

Fresh out of goose, chicken and duck fat or I would have used one. I have lard, two types, but it just didn't seem right.

Enjoy,
Gary

Gary, perhaps you misunderstood.

Adding garlic doesn't even approach being a shonda.

Using the large holes on the box grater.. now .that's getting closer .

stevez wrote:I use the method where you put the grated potato/onion mixture inside a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out all the water before adding the matzo meal, salt and other ingredients.

This is my method too and while it's a bit of a pain, it works very well.

Gary, you've inspired me. We'll be having latkes tonight at the Suburban's.

=R=

Gary, could you elaborate on the vacuum sealer? Every six months or so I decide that I need one of these, but never end up pulling the trigger. Do you find this works markedly better than wrapping something in plastic wrap and then foil?

I squeeze out excess moisture in the grated potatoes by squeezing small batches in my hands. My family seems to think this is more hygienic than squeezing moisture through a kitchen towel.

I'd like to make a t-shirt that says:

One man's tradition is another man's shanda.

with the words "So leave me alone" on the back.

The problem with the kitchen towel method is that you loose the potato starch, some of which I usually add back to the mix for textural optimization.
If you grate the potatoes coarsely (which I don't), this might not be important.

Darren72 wrote:Gary, could you elaborate on the vacuum sealer? Every six months or so I decide that I need one of these, but never end up pulling the trigger. Do you find this works markedly better than wrapping something in plastic wrap and then foil?

While I am not G Wiv, I do love my vac sealer. We got our set at CostCo, which was a pretty good deal (think $125). Comes with the sealer, some rolls of bags and a few canisters. Canisters were used at first for coffee etc but are kind of a PITA, so now they sit unsued.

The vac sealer is great for the wife and I. As my idea of cooking for two can usually feed 20, we freeze portions, then seal. If you only need to store something for a few weeks, the plastic wrap/foil/ziploc thing will work for you. But when you make a load of soup, it is nice to be able to store this for years, and then pull out a vac bag from freezer and drop it into boiling water to heat up. Never had any loss of quality on anything.

If you have a WSM, I think you need a vac sealer. Pulled pork in the dead of winter on a weeknight is worth the $125 to me

Jamie

iblock9 wrote:Couple of questions...what methods have you used to get rid of the potato starch and water that is a byproduct of the latke making process.

iblock,

I have a couple of variations based on the Queen of England Rule, which is a variation of Calvin Trillin's ~if the Emperor of China was coming for dinner where would I take him~. In other words, if for company I will grate, let settle to save potato starch without excess water and pat dry with a clean towel. On the other end, if it's just a few for my wife and I grate, press with hand, drain, mix and then scoop up small handfuls with a last second liquid expelling squeeze over the container.

I typically use peanut oil and a cast iron pan, but, as Queen of England Rules were in effect last evening, I used what was most accessible, a bottle of canola oil that was on the counter and a non stick pan.

Frankly, I think making latkes are like most things in life, when you've done it enough you are more able to adapt to small variations in equipment and technique.

Enjoy,
Gary

Darren72 wrote:Gary, could you elaborate on the vacuum sealer?

Jamieson22 wrote:While I am not G Wiv, I do love my vac sealer...........

Darren,

I was about to respond, but realized Jamieson said almost exactly what I was going to say, right down to the canisters being a PITA, but more cleanly phrased.

My suggestion, if you are a member of Costco go pick one up, they are really quite useful.

Enjoy,
Gary

Thanks to the inspiration provided by Gary, Stagger, LAZ and several other folks around here, I decided to send Hannukah 2007 out by making latkes tonight for the family . . .


I've learned that the fine-grating disc on my cuisinart creates nice piece identity and texture -- somewhere between a meal and shreds. I processed 4 potatoes, then added 1/2 a large onion, which I minced separately. After I squeezed out most of the moisture from those ingredients -- but not all of it -- into the bowl went beaten eggs, matzoh meal, salt and pepper.



I used mostly peanut oil as the frying medium but my not-so-secret ingredient is rendered duck fat, some of which I just happened to have on-hand. I added a couple of tablespoons of it to each batch.



It's slow-going producing 4 latkes at a time but I wasn't in the mood to monitor 2 pans tonight.



Eventually, as the family got full, a stockpile began to form.



Latke glamour shot

=R=

Also inspired by this thread, I made latkes last night and I have the scrapped knuckles to prove it! They were great and I ate too many but I wish I had some of that duck fat. I'll be that improved them greatly. All the time I was grating, I kept thinking about those mothers who made these for their family on a regular basis. That's really love!

Jean

Part of the joy's of the Stagger family grater (Karsher-what-ever-its-called). I made about 25 latkIes and no knuckle damage at all. Though in the sake of fairness I've has so many run-ins with French mandolins, I'm pretty cautious these days.

I'm a latke novice, so please excuse my lack of knowledge. My question is this...what is the benefit, if any, of using matzo meal over plain flour? It's probably, in part, tradition, but is there also a flavor or textural benefit?

viaChgo wrote:I'm a latke novice, so please excuse my lack of knowledge. My question is this...what is the benefit, if any, of using matzo meal over plain flour? It's probably, in part, tradition, but is there also a flavor or textural benefit?

None that I am aware of... I actually have tried both and using flour is the only variation I make from my Bubbie's recipe is to use flour. I just find it mixes better.

viaChgo wrote:I'm a latke novice, so please excuse my lack of knowledge. My question is this...what is the benefit, if any, of using matzo meal over plain flour? It's probably, in part, tradition, but is there also a flavor or textural benefit?

It's more coarse and therefore, a bit less likely to clump when it comes in contact with moisture. Flavorwise, I'm sure there are some who can tell the difference but I am not one of them.

=R=

Mr. Suburban, Sir: them's fine lookin' latkes!

viaChgo wrote:I'm a latke novice, so please excuse my lack of knowledge. My question is this...what is the benefit, if any, of using matzo meal over plain flour? It's probably, in part, tradition, but is there also a flavor or textural benefit?

There is a subtle but definite flavor/textural difference between the two. Whether this amounts to a benefit in favor of matzoh meal is a matter of taste. I find latkes prepared with MM to be a bit denser and somewhat chewier with a little bit of a toasty flavor. While I like the flavor from the MM I actually somewhat prefer the lighter texture which I get with flour, which I find also crisps up a little better. The difference is really rather minor.

Though subtle, this distinction was actually the basis of an ongoing dispute (sadly one of many) between my Mother's side of the family (flour), and my fathers side (Matzoh meal).

I should point out that my father's brother in law Sid, owned and operated Rocky's deli on Morse avenue for many years (where the sign in the window read "a tasket a tisket, a lean and tender brisket) and my Grandmother Lena's latkes featuring Matzoh meal were held in high esteem.

This question then is not easy to answer and probably ranks with "why are we here" or at least "why would anyone buy a Rachael Ray cookbook?" as one of the great mysteries of the Universe. Try both and see what works for you.

A sucker for beef or lamb stew, I'm making that same recipe as I type. I tore it out of the Trib Magazine this past weekend. I prefer my stew a might thicker...did you use the amount flour called for or is your interpretation more of a pot au feu?

kuhdo wrote:Adding garlic doesn't even approach being a shonda.

Using the large holes on the box grater.. now .that's getting closer .

Absolutely. By my standards, what's depicted in all the photos above are hash browns. (I love good hash browns, too, mind you....)

The mixture I make resembles applesauce or oatmeal in texture. It's achieved not by shredding the potatoes and onions but by grating them, either on the finest side of a box grater or with the steel knife in a food processor.

I remove liquid simply by letting the potato-onion mixture stand and then pouring off what rises to the top. As additional liquid rises in the finished batter I spoon some of it off, but I don't sweat a little liquid -- it helps the batter spread and makes the finished latkes lacy.

My recipe is here. Scroll down to see Mike G's glamor shot.

I have never tried making latkes with ordinary matzo meal, only matzo cake meal, which is as fine as flour, so there's not much difference in this use.

Christopher Gordon wrote:A sucker for beef or lamb stew, I'm making that same recipe as I type. I tore it out of the Trib Magazine this past weekend. I prefer my stew a might thicker...did you use the amount flour called for or is your interpretation more of a pot au feu?

ahhh...obviously latkes are the raison d'etre...

LAZ wrote:The mixture I make resembles applesauce or oatmeal in texture. It's achieved not by shredding the potatoes and onions but by grating them, either on the finest side of a box grater or with the steel knife in a food processor

My Bubbe would say using a food procesor to make Chanukah Latkes is a shonda. Of course she hand grated 60 pounds of whitefish twice a year until she was 90 to make fish.

Seriously, I always think of the finely grated/processed potato pancake you describe as the kind i can get every day of the year (except sundays) at Mannys. They taste great but they are definitely not what i think of when i think of a homemade (as in at my house and not a restaurant) latke. The latkes depicted above are the latkes i remember from my youth and inform my notion of what i picture as the ideal (sans garlic )

I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one using the "great outdoors"
as my walk-in cooler.

I tend to only cook for 20 to 30 people when I can prep the day ahead and
use my deck to take the heat off what I've made for dinner. Having snow makes it even better! If I try and cook for a crowd during the summer I've got to buy a boat-load of ice to shed the heat as quickly as I can.

iblock9 wrote:

LAZ wrote:The mixture I make resembles applesauce or oatmeal in texture. It's achieved not by shredding the potatoes and onions but by grating them, either on the finest side of a box grater or with the steel knife in a food processor

My Bubbe would say using a food procesor to make Chanukah Latkes is a shonda. Of course she hand grated 60 pounds of whitefish twice a year until she was 90 to make fish.

I guess I'm just a heretical tradition trampler. And it might also make me a bad person but I wouldn't think of grating potatoes by hand (or anything else, for that matter) on a weeknight when I have a perfectly good food processor sitting in my cabinet -- one which I know turns out a delicious and consistent end product. FWIW, the fine-grating blade I used produces a latke that is very similar in texture to those made from a meal or batter. I loved my bubbe's hand-grated latkes but you know what? Mine are better . . . sorry, Gram.

I also have to disagree with the hash brown assertion. In my book, hash browns simply don't contain egg or matzoh meal. Maybe what I made isn't a latke. Maybe it's just a lowly, old potato pancake. But in either case, it certainly isn't a hash brown

=R=

ronnie_suburban wrote:I guess I'm just a heretical tradition trampler. And it might also make me a bad person but I wouldn't think of grating potatoes by hand (or anything else, for that matter) on a weeknight when I have a perfectly good food processor sitting in my cabinet -- one which I know turns out a delicious and consistent end product. FWIW, the fine-grating blade I used produces a latke that is very similar in texture to those made from a meal or batter. I loved my bubbe's hand-grated latkes but you know what? Mine are better . . . sorry, Gram.

=R=

I'm in the same boat I guess. My mom makes them the way she was taught by her mom, who was taught by her mom, and so on -- in the blender. She then waits, pours off juice, and the end result is a latke that is very crispy on the edges, but soft inside.

On the other hand, like you Ronnie, I use my Cuisinart and the fine grating blade and grate the potatoes and onion together. But then I replace the grating blade with the regular blade for just a few turns and a few scrapes because I like something in between the fine grate and my mom's blender method result.

Finally, I put the potato-onion mixture in cheesecloth and wring it out so as to eliminate as much of the juice as I can (because I like my latkes crispy), and then I mix in a couple of tablespoons of flour, and a little baking powder, salt and pepper. I always prefer to fry them in peanut oil.

In any event, I like them crisp and while I enjoy the doughier versions that you find at places like Manny's and Kauffman's, I prefer to make mine with a little less flour.

iblock9 wrote:Seriously, I always think of the finely grated/processed potato pancake you describe as the kind i can get every day of the year (except sundays) at Mannys. They taste great but they are definitely not what i think of when i think of a homemade (as in at my house and not a restaurant) latke.

Oy gevalt! They're nothing like Manny's! Manny's makes doorstops in comparison. I am not a fan of Manny's latkes. The pastrami, yes, but the latkes are leaden. (Although not nearly as leaden as some I ate recently that were purchased at Jewel, who apparently gets them from Sandwich Club. You could patch tires with such latkes, except they wouldn't stick for the grease.)

But yes, my family's recipe turns out latkes that are crispy on the outside (not just the edges) and soft inside, which is how I like latkes to be. They are thin and a bit lacy, and not at all doughy. It uses only 1 1/2 teaspoons of flour per potato.

Everybody has his own idea of what makes the perfect latke, usually (but I guess not always) based on what his bubbe made. For such a simple dish, even counting only the basic potato variety, there are enormous differences of opinion on how they should be made.

But as the old joke goes, ask any three Jews a question, and you'll get five opinions!