Caffe Gelato + Miami Flavors

This past incredibly summery Saturday I was in the Wicker Park area and decided to try out Caffe Gelato on Division, west of Damen, east of Western. Also east of Chicago's scariest building, the H.R. Giger-inspired hulking monster hospital whose name I don't remember, but whose built-in air vents look like giant vacuum cleaners poised to suck up unwitting passersby.

They import their base from Italy, and "make" the rest on premises. I have to put that in quotes, because it reminds me of people nowadays who say they made homemade cookies when what they did was slice frozen dough onto a cookie sheet. But I know that adding anything to an ice cream base alters its taste and consistency, so there is some art to it. Unless they just add pre-made flavors, which are widely available.

I guess I just don't consider this made-on-the-premises, and don't necessarily think an imported gelato base from (my favorite country in the world, the home to my ancestors, and the place that I inhabit in my dreams) Italy is going to be better shipped overseas then frozen in Illinois than something that made from scratch here, being a stone's throw from The Dairy State a number of free range chicken farmers and all.

But, I did enjoy the gelato, in that it was gelato styled with a lighter butterfat content and a shiny-slick consistency. I could eat what I did and not feel instantly rotund afterwards. We had 3 flavors: nocciola, pistachio and strawberry, the latter being fruit only. It was sweeter than I prefer, and the pistachio tasted too much of almond extract. The other two were pleasant. They reminded me of the gelato at Ice Dreams on Halsted north of Diversey. I'd rather go to these places than, say, Bobtail, but I doubt I'll go to either all that often, as I tend to make my own anyway.

Then we biked west a few blocks to try Miami Flavors again. We either had or sampled Mamey, Soursop (both a bit bland, flat), cheese (mascarpone with cheddar chunks, really tasted of neither), Dominican Chocolate (this was nice), coconut (the best, very much tasted of the fruit with nice fresh chunks mixed in) and lemon (2nd best, very tangy).

These remind me of Sicilian style gelato in that since both Puerto Rico and Sicilia are hot climates, the frozen treats have evolved with lower butterfat contents, thickened not with eggs but with corn or wheat starch. So they were not syrup-smooth concoctions, but somewhat coarser, though I don't mean with texture-ruining ice crystals. I like their spirit there and will return, but I'm not agog over their products just yet.

I keep coming back to the idea, discussed here before, that Chicago does not seem to be an ice cream town. Does anyone know who actually makes their own product from scratch (excluding Italian ice)? I suppose Homer's does, right? Al Gelato, nee Massa's imports their base. Bobtail (which unimpressed me)? Penquin, I think, imports their base, right? Freddy's I don't know. Anyone know?

Great post. I was asking the same question the other night or at least wondering the same thoughts. There are obviously restaurants that make their own ice cream from scratch as essentially it is not that hard of a thing to do with an ice cream maker. Even the somewhat maligned yuppie take-out shop on North near Damen makes their own ice cream, but both these examples are hardly what you are getting at as to commercial vendors. Now, Bittersweet DOES make their own base and ice cream, and as far as I know is somewhat singular as a small batch/commercial/non-base seller (discounting Scooters).

The other issue on the table, is that as I understand it from the Snooklfritz person at Green City (who makes it from scratch too), is that a Gelato machine (as a style of ice cream, not just an Italian word) is different from a regular ice cream maker. As in, the Snooklfritz woman told me that she could not actually make "gelato" with her machine.

There are two key factors in distiguishing gelato from ice cream. First is the use of a custard base. The commercial bases used at Massa, Village Creamery, Cafe Gelato, Freddy's, well let me say this, the fat in these custards is not necessarily eggs. Still it gives the mouthfeel that distiguishes gelato. Second, gelato is much denser than regular ice cream. This is measured as "over-run", the amount of increase in the final product from the addition of whipped air. Gelato machines produce low overrun, making the ice cream more ice creamy, and this is why the flavors seem more intense. From a chemistry perspective, there would be more molecules of flavor per unit of gelato than ice cream. The base can be readily made with eggs, but the machines, there does not seem to be anyone around with the machine who is then also willing to do the other thing.

Perhaps a bit of LTH matchmaking...

Rob

That is an insightful post. I love guanabana, but would never order it as ice cream. Too watery, too subtle. A cold, ugly soursop with a straw in the top. That's the way to go. The lower fat content of tropical ice cream is why I will go to my grave knowing that avocado is the best possible flavor. Coconut's good too. Mmm, tropical oils.

Right, Jeff - avocado is superb in a cold/creamy state. A common in warmer climates (Asian, maybe? can't remember) is avocado whipped with sugar, milk and ice. Also very, very good.

VI, gelato Italian style is indeed what you're referring to, though there are plenty of places in Italy where what you're offered is what you get at C. Gelato or Ice Dreams - more overrun, slick texture, etc.

However, I believe you're wrong about gelato necessarily equalling custardl, or the addition of eggs. The further south you go in Italy, the more you find it thickened with wheat or corn starch, not eggs, Sicilian style. When I'm at home I'll add a link for more info.

But the machine issue is interesting, and I'd like to get more info about it. Snooklefritz, Bittersweet (of course, why couldn't I remember them) and are you saying that Scooters makes their own as well?

Michael M. wrote:Right, Jeff - avocado is superb in a cold/creamy state. A common in warmer climates (Asian, maybe? can't remember) is avocado whipped with sugar, milk and ice. Also very, very good.

VI, gelato Italian style is indeed what you're referring to, though there are plenty of places in Italy where what you're offered is what you get at C. Gelato or Ice Dreams - more overrun, slick texture, etc.

However, I believe you're wrong about gelato necessarily equalling custardl, or the addition of eggs. The further south you go in Italy, the more you find it thickened with wheat or corn starch, not eggs, Sicilian style. When I'm at home I'll add a link for more info.

But the machine issue is interesting, and I'd like to get more info about it. Snooklefritz, Bittersweet (of course, why couldn't I remember them) and are you saying that Scooters makes their own as well?

I think my post above was a bit rambling and I did not make all my points clear. Essentially, I agree with everything you say.

In Italy (and elsewhere), it is likely (nee more probably these days) to get gelato like Massa, Cafe Gelato, etc. Afterall, these places are using canned and bottled bases from Italy.

I am not positive on the exact defination of a custard from a culinary perspective in that a custard always has to have eggs, etc. Nor, am I fully positive that "custard" is the exact word to describe what makes gelato different from ice cream. But, but whatever you call it, I believe that all gelatos have some component outside of the milk/flavor/sugar that would be ice cream. I thought that this component has to include fat, but perhaps there can be gelato without any additional fat. If you look at the ingedients in the canned bases used at like Cafe Gelato, you will typically see oil like soybean oil as the fat.

My understanding of Scooters is that into the custard machine goes the raw ingredients and out comes the custard--the machine both freezing and mixing the product. I am almost positive that they do not start from anything other than milk, cream and sugar. I believe it is the proportion of milk to cream that affects the richness/percantage of butterfat.

I am pretty sure, although not 100% that at a place like Cafe Gelato, the process works like this. You put into your machine the can of base, which includes the sugar, fat and sometimes flavoring, ADD milk (or milk product like dried milk) and if desired ADD other flavorings or fresh fruit. If you were making gelato at home or in a more artisinal way, you would cook a base/custard and add or otherwise incorporate that to your milk, sugar, etc., then put in the machine

Rob

JeffB wrote:I love guanabana, but would never order it as ice cream. Too watery, too subtle. A cold, ugly soursop with a straw in the top. That's the way to go.

Village Creamery has a lovely guanabana sorbet (when they have it -- they do rotate the flavors).

Village Creamery
8000 Waukegan Road, Niles, 847/965-9805
4558 Oakton St., Skokie, 847/982-1720

I probably won't post on Miami Flavors on my blog, so I might as well jump in now (even though I should be posting more pics and finishing my Maxwell Street Rundown).

Sorry, fellers, but it's not good. It's bad. It stinks. Hope this doesn't ruin my credibility on other issues, but I wanted to be blunt. I tried several flavors and both my travelling friend, a true lover of all chilled desserts, but especially ice cream, and I were disappointed, to say the least. Several of the flavors sounded interesting and the texture of the avocado was okay, but still....

I found ice crystals in several other flavors. The taste of many were flat. My friend was even more disappointed than me. It reminded me of a bad version of the little container ice creams you get at Indian grocers, and even those usually aren't good.

I know it's in a neighborhood that needs a few more cool things, right across from Papas, a place that earns its rep. And it's a funky little place that's trying to do something interesting. But it fails.

Go to San Francisco. Eat at Mitchell's or a million other places that do very good tropical and funky flavors, while maintaining a high quality of ice cream. You'd never want to eat at Miami Flavors again.

And speaking of Penguin.... Tried to go there and waited around for about 45 minutes after their sign said they'd be open, and no one was around. Knocked on the window. Nobody. Ugh! Didn't have any good ice cream in Chicago outside of Charlie Trotter's, and that'd be an expensive fix.

"found ice crystals in several other flavors. The taste of many were flat. My friend was even more disappointed than me."

In a way, this surprises me very much, because it has never been my experience. In another, it does not. These mom and pop latino ice cream places are great when they are on, and pretty miserable when they are not.

As Michael M. noted, the ice cream at Miami Flavors, especially, is a little low on fat. This stuff just doesn't keep very well, and is usually sold pretty soft when its fresh. The idea that you had ice crystals is completely foreign to me at Miami Flavors, and suggests that the product was re-frozen after it had become soft, at which point it is more or less trashed. This has been a well-documented problem at the Penguin.

One issue to consider is whether the owner was there. Very pleasant young guy who also has shops in NYC and Miami. He told me that he was going to Miami for the season after labor day. This guy actually makes the ice cream. I have heard from others who have had bad service experiences at MF when he was away.

I guess the point is: you can write off a business based on a single experience if you want, but I wouldn't. On the other hand, if it sucked that badly, I can see your point.

Anyway, here's hoping that my credibility and those of other Humboldt Park enthusiasts did not suffer for raving about Miami Flavors. I hope you enjoyed some of my favorites, places that I helped bring to the CH/LTH collective attention or continually boost, esp. the pork trucks, Pollo Chon, and Marianao.

By the way, I can't agree that HP is really in such need or more cool things. It's a very vibrant, living neighborhood with several great options. And the park itself is among the most beautiful in America.

The owner was there. He was sitting in a chair watching soccer on the TV, I believe. He got really annoyed when the girl behind the counter asked him for help on something.

I really felt like the stretch between the Puerto Rican flags was light on options. I walked it twice. Maybe just in comparison to other neighborhoods I toured, such as Pilsen, Little Village, Chinatown, Chinatown North, Kedzie, Lincoln Square, etc. Wait, that's a hell of a lot of neighborhoods to be more interesting than it.

The park itself is cool. Among the most beautiful in the country? I won't get into that. I did find the park a very useful place to unload a lot of leftovers with all the homeless that sleep there. Kept me from wasting food and over-indulging even more.

I just call them like I see them. I try not to be too political about it.

I don't have any particular need to tout Humboldt Park, though for better or worse it is one of the two main PR neighborhoods in the US; but your observation maybe says more about Chicago's wealth of neighborhoods than it does about HP's qualities. I'll stick to my assertion about the park proper, though. The great urban park is rare, and HP is a good example.

You may be right. Many cities don't even have a concentration of ethnicity like that.

It's not that it's a bad neighborhood, it's just that to an outsider especially interested in food, there's a lot of walking without a lot of payoff. You don't feel overwhelmed like you do in many of the other ethnic neighborhoods. There's enough to make a half-day of it, I would say. (And remember, this is just one traveller's opinion.) I like the pork trucks in the park. Nice stuff. I really liked Papas, too.

Caffe Gelato texture has always struck me as "wax-like" or in someways "styrofoam-like". I wouldn't put it anywhere near the top of Chicago's gelato/ice cream options.

Have you been to El Borinquen? I know this thread is about ice cream (BTW, my favorite are the coconut bars from the pushcarts) but El Borinquen is a Puerto Rican restaurant just a short walk from Humboldt Park and the pork vendors. Division Street between Ashland and California was very run down at one time and only recently has seen a rebirth.

El Borinquen
1720 N. California
Chicago, IL 60647
773-227-6038, 6437, 7211

BTW, I would not have posted this had my search on El Borinquen had any hits! There were none! But, now that I've done a search on jibaritos (a Chicago Puerto Rican invention) , El Borinquen popped up. I am sorry for the duplication.

JeffB wrote:As Michael M. noted, the ice cream at Miami Flavors, especially, is a little low on fat. This stuff just doesn't keep very well, and is usually sold pretty soft when its fresh. The idea that you had ice crystals is completely foreign to me at Miami Flavors, and suggests that the product was re-frozen after it had become soft, at which point it is more or less trashed. This has been a well-documented problem at the Penguin.

I've noticed quite a bit of "grittiness" to the gelato at the Penguin on nearly every visit. It is definitely poorly stabilized gelato. But, the odd thing is that I really like it. For some strange reason, I find the gritty mouth-feel of their gelato to be very comforting and slightly addictive.

Best,
EC

For some strange reason, I find the gritty mouth-feel of their gelato to be very comforting and slightly addictive.

So you're saying you enjoy eating ice-crystal laden gelato/ice cream? Really? Yuck.

Kenny from Rogers Park wrote:

For some strange reason, I find the gritty mouth-feel of their gelato to be very comforting and slightly addictive.

So you're saying you enjoy eating ice-crystal laden gelato/ice cream? Really? Yuck.

Well, not usually, just in the case of the Penguin. There's just something about it.

Penguin is hands-down the worst gelato I've ever had... if anything it reminds me more of a sorbet with the crystals but that goopy consistency has it in a category by itself. I saw it somewhere on a list of Chicago's "essential" destinations... I don't get this at all.

How fortuitous that this thread was resurrected, as I made my inagural visit to Caffe Gelato just last night.
Honestly, I wasn't impressed. I had a taste of the chocolate and the caramel, both of which were oppressively rich. I ended up getting a small scoop of coconut and one of hazlenut. The coconut was the clear winner, although my adoration for anything coconut may have biased this decision. All of the flavors -- even the coconut! -- suffered from a slimy texture and a leaden quality that shouldn't be present in any good gelato (or good food, for that matter). It's tough to get a taste that's rich and complex without stepping over the line to sickeningly heavy or aggressive; in my opinion, CG jumps that line and then runs a few more yards.

Is Argentinian ice cream supposed to be different from gelato? And if so, in what way? Has anyone here ever travelled to Argentina and eaten the ice cream at a well-respected place there?

extramsg wrote:Is Argentinian ice cream supposed to be different from gelato? And if so, in what way? Has anyone here ever travelled to Argentinia and eaten the ice cream at a well-respected place there?

***********
Never been to Argentina (unfortunately) but the owners of C.O.N.E.S. in New York (i believe) are two brothers from Argentina.

I can tell you that CONES to this day remains my favorite gelato anywhere. It's so different from Penguin you wouldn't know where to start.

The recently closed Ice Dreams was the closest I've found in Chicago altho there's other good ones here.

Well, I guess I can be glad that Penguin was closed, then, when I stopped by. I wish Miami Flavors had been.

Put me in the catagory that likes Penguin. I'm with EC, there IS something appealing and likable about the gritty, gummy ice cream. For one thing, as it has been said often on here and Chowhound (probably more on Chowhound), one must sift through the available flavors at Penguin to dismiss those old or simply not successful. For another thing, just accept Penguin for what it is. It is like someone who bakes a cake at home, from scratch. It is probably sloppy, and un-even and maybe with a lump or two, but gosh darn it probably tastes good. Or, to put on my high falutin' hat, it's like outsider art, not really well done, but pretty all the less.

You know when it comes to restaurants on Da'bomb, there is a strong percantage who love Bhabi's Kitchen, but to me, I found the stuff too amateur, preferring the more "professional" operation of Sabri. With Penguin, I seem to accept somewhat of the opposite position, that there is something appealing about its earnestness.

I am willing to accept and admitt that with places like Penguin, Miami Flavors and, what Bhabi's Kitchen, one is not so much evaluating the food, but evaluating the food in the context of other factors, hidden and apparant. Then again, our perception of restaurants--c.f. extended discussion re: Arun's, is a favorite topic of mine.

Rob

I imagine the danger, though, is allowing too many other factors in and not publicly acknowleding them. It's one thing to say that a place makes great ice cream and another to say that you like the ice cream because you like their approach to making ice cream, etc. A seasonal analogy: It's one thing to say that you like your mother's gravy because it reminds you of happy childhood experiences and another to tell people that your mom makes great gravy. Full disclosure and honest self-reflection. Usually saves people meaningless arguments.

I've been to Argentina, and I must say that the stuff around Recoleta is the best, probably better than anything I've had in Italy, possibly because of the cows and the use of dulce de leche.

I've also been to Penguin many times. At best, Penguin is like a decent neighborhood ice cream place in BA, which is very good. At worst, it's like a very bad ice creamery in BA, of which there are many.

It's always like something in Argentina, however, if only because the Penguin is run by a Porteno who, somewhat ironically, is both lily white and a non-English speaker. He does speak Italian as well as Castillan, if that matters to you.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned here is how incredibly gracious and congenial these people are. Indeed, I guess I'd stop in even if the gelato were always bad, rather than sometimes bad.

Also, if you dine in, the thin crust pizza comes dangerously close to the legendary hand-tossed "not Chicago" pie. It does not travel, though (nor does Neopolitan pie). Empanadas are ok, and dirt cheap.

Again, this guy is doing his own very Argentine thing. He is not catering to Chicagoans tastes at this point that I can tell. The focus is South America below Brazil.

JeffB wrote:Also, if you dine in, the thin crust pizza comes dangerously close to the legendary hand-tossed "not Chicago" pie. It does not travel, though (nor does Neopolitan pie). Empanadas are ok, and dirt cheap.

My friend and I went last night to try their pizza b/c she'd heard good reviews from co-workers. We ordered a half sausage, half pineapple for pick up. My friend also wanted to try their gelato, but I said we should take a look first and see if it looked fresh (given the mixed reviews I've read). Well, the gelato did not look very appetizing, so we skipped that and just picked up the pizza.

Having paid only $8.13 for a 14-in pizza, I feel bad about making complaints, but not *that* bad b/c this pizza was NOT good.

First, the sauce and cheese were way too salty. Sparse toppings and the cheese had an almost artificial or processed look to it. We both agreed that the crust was not bad--thin and crisp--but that wasn't enough to make us finish off the last two slices. I picked the pineapples off and we chucked the rest.

Everyone's entitled to their own opinions, but I honestly don't know how anyone could eat this stuff much less LIKE it. It tasted like a frozen pizza, and not a good one at that. I would actually be embarrassed to serve this to any paying customer.

Janet, we are all entitled to our opinions, you're right. I did, however, note that the pizza does not travel. I also wonder whether you were penalized for ordering pineapple on a pizza. Then again, I'm really surprised that pineapple was an option.

Let me make something clear: I did not intend to suggest that this is destination pizza, only that it is close to the NY, tossed, no-shortening, not-Vito & Nick's Chicago thin that comes up here from time to time.

Last, I'd note that "sparse toppings" are fairly standard for this kind of pizza. In fact, some of the pizza purists decry the Chicago tradition of putting tons of cheese and sauce on pizza. Your comment that the crust was good, crisp and thin, funny enough, is mostly what some folks are looking for in this kind of pie. To each his own. The cheese is provalone, I'm pretty sure. I can't speak to your specific pie, because I didn't taste it. Sounds pretty bad. I like the more typical argentine combos, like ham and cheese with oregano. Based on my repeat experience, I'm with your friends co-workers. But this tiny place, where the cook is sometimes off delivering pies, clearly suffers from severe inconsistency. I think that's well-documented. Caveat emptor.

Sorry, Jeff, I didn't mean to imply that I was attacking your post. I quoted yours b/c it was the one that brought up the topic of Penguin's pizza in this thread, but I was just expounding on my recent experience.

However, I don't think it was the travel that ruined the pizza. I think it would've still tasted pretty bad if we had eaten it there, as the saltiness and "off" flavor of the sauce and cheese (and the sausage, too) wouldn't have changed w/ the short travel time. The pineapples, which were my friend's choice, actually ended up being a saving grace, as it helped cut the saltiness a bit.

I agree that there can be such a thing as too much topping, but it really looked like they actually counted out an exact number of pineapples and sausages, the way it was arranged on the pizza. Still, I would've been OK with that if the pizza had just tasted good.

The "gourmet" pizzas on the back of the menu did look a little more appealing, but I'm skeptical about spending anymore money there when there are so many more (and likely better) pizza joints around. I'm kind of against patronizing places where I know beforehand that there's a 50/50 (or whatever percent) chance I might be getting not just mediocre, but downright unappetizing food. To each his own, I guess.

Janet, your experience worries me. That level of frugalness might well mean that the Penguin folks aren't making ends meet. The icy gelato seems to be more consistently a problem, also. The winter must be tough on a place like Penguin. Add to that the fact, as I perceive it, that the family running the place are not terribly sophisticated business people (see below), and it adds up.

* My wife will only go to the Penguin, never order delivery. The old blue-eyed Porteno who runs the place is also the delivery guy. He also insists on bringing all sorts of free stuff with him when he delivers to our home. I mean, the guy delivers 20 buck's worth of pizza and ice cream and piles on empanadas and more ice cream, gratis. We have visions of him flipping the "Closed" sign on the door while he runs out to give away the store. We tip to make up the difference. But this goes past "kind" to possibly "sad." You can see why we root for the place, but is sounds like the business is spiraling. Too bad.

I ordered a pizza for delivery from them a year or two ago, and it was pretty bad. A cheese, or sausage, or something basic. At the time, and to this day, I've planned to make a return trip for the Argentine special, eat-in, but haven't gotten around to it. I root for these guys, too, but the risk-reward ratio isn't quite there (and by risk, I don't mean to imply that the place is too expensive--rather the risk of unsatisfying food).

We did finally try Caffe Gelato over the weekend, and it was quite nice. I can't add much to the comments here--maybe less fat-ful than the best gelato, but quite tasty regardless. Sampled the a nocciola-bacio cone, a pistachio-frutti di bosco, and a peach-zuppa inglese (new flavor, according to the sign). The pistachio was probably the worst. Both the fruit versions had great full fruit flavor, though the peach was a little too slurpyish for my taste. But man was it good. Both hazelnut variations and the zuppa inglese were excellent as well, and the peach-zuppa inglese was an especially nice combo. If this place were as close to us as Penguin, I think we'd go more often than we currently visit the Penguin.

Cheers,

Aaron

Yes, as much as my friend and I both enjoy supporting the hole-in-the-wall, mom and pop places, Aaron is right on about the risk (of bad food)-reward ratio being quite a deterrent against future visits.

The owners sound like great people, but it's hard for me to justify paying for food I know I won't like.

As it happens, we stopped by Caffe Gelato the same night after picking up the pizza, as it's on the way to my home (luckily, they are closer to me than Penguin). My friends eyes lit up just seeing their gelatos (in comparison to the not-so-fresh looking ones at Penguin).

I got my favorite--the hazelnut--and a scoop of strawberry. She got the mixed berry and coconut. The coconut got to be a bit too cloyingly sweet after awhile, but she really liked the berry, and I agree that their fruit flavors are quite good. I've found that the best combinations tend to be getting a scoop of one of the more creamy flavors, and a scoop of a fruit-based flavor to help cut the richness.