So I checked this place out tonight. I just happened to spot this thread and I just happened to see that they were open until 3am, and I just happened to be on the north side of the city so I just happened to drop in and get a brisket sandwich to go.
There’s definitely something missing and I think it was in (or, more accurately,
not in) the sauce. The brisket itself was tender but still retained a good “bite”. It seemed to have adequate smoke flavor imparted from real wood, not liquid smoke. The initial flavor hit on the sauce was rather bland followed by a slight bitter edge due to the preparation process. It was actually a distraction from the smoked meat rather than an enhancement.
I watched closely as my sandwich was prepared. The method they are using is not too far off from Larry Tucker’s technique at the sadly departed N.N. Smokehouse up on Irving Park. Larry would toss smoked meat into a sauté pan with a quantity of his sauce and warmed it until it was hot, then placed the sauced meat on the bun to be served. While this system worked exceptionally well for Larry, the Smoke Shack has so far missed the mark.
Oddly, the only difference here was that the cook at Smoke Shack threw the meat directly onto a hot griddle, bypassing the pan altogether. The result was an over caramelized disappointment. The griddle was probably set too high, causing the sauce to go past its optimum caramelized flavor and into the bitter zone. They would have far better success if they warmed the sauce separately from the meat and then presented it to the customer as a side condiment to be applied to the naked meat.
I’m not sure this place is beyond redemption though. Among its assets; the portion size on the sandwich was excellent, and the “full meal” prices, which include 2 sides and slaw, seem like an outstanding value if they can get their act together. I also liked the way they griddled the bun on
all sides creating a very pleasant, toasty flavor and appearance. I didn’t try any of the sides this time around because it was 11 o’clock at night and I just wasn’t that hungry.
Although this visit was not what I would call a screaming success, it was not a total disaster either. I’d like to go back when I’m hungry and sample some of the sides and other meat offerings. Perhaps a good talking to with the owner would help steer them in the right direction.
Buddy
P.S. In looking at the menu just now, I see they also serve an Argentine chorizo sandwich served with chimmichurri. It might be worthwhile to try the pulled pork served without any sauce at all and add a splash or two of the chimmichurri in its place.