Cafe Lao

While ambling through Argyle Street on Sunday during the late morning, I was looking to celebrate some spectacular misfortune, and I stumbled upon Cafe Lao. This has moved into the space on Argyle near Sheridan, where 'Tank' Noodle used to reside. Despite some trepidation (last week I had eaten at the new incarnation of Pho Hung and suffered through a ghastly meal), I made my way in and sat at one of the 10 or so cramped tables. The decor is about the same as the old Tank. The menu is mostly in Vietnamese, with an English insert. I ordered the Pho Bo Vien (Pho with Meat balls) and some spring rolls. The spring rolls were ordinary but the Pho, the Pho was excellent! Tasty, fresh, flavorful, complex; the soup was just sublime. Larger and tastier-than-ordinary meat balls were complemented by a well seasoned stock.

The service, as is the custom on argyle was pretty desultory, but the price meets the budget of most impecunious families. I was charged under $ 10.00 including a soft drink and complementary tea. They have no liquor license but allow BYOB and I saw them try to assist a couple with their Wine bottle while I was there. I took it as a good sign that the restaurant was almost full on a Sunday morning at 11:30 a.m.. I could not see their address but their phone number is posted on the front glass and they appear to be open until 11 p.m. or so during the week and later on the weekends.

Cafe Lao, On Argyle near Sheridan, 773-275-5092.

did you notice if they had any specifically laotian dishes, or just vietnamese?

I'd be interested in your (and anybody else's) experience at Pho Hung (now Joycetown Cafe). The place is never crowded and seems to be suffering from an identity crisis.

Paul Tyksins wrote:I'd be interested in your (and anybody else's) experience at Pho Hung (now Joycetown Cafe). The place is never crowded and seems to be suffering from an identity crisis.

Paul, you've managed to catch me on a bad day, and by "bad," I mean the kind of day where I'd like nothing better than to publicly flog Pho Hung. I mean, I have done it, before, here, here, and here.

That shop has been terrible for years, and I will be happy to tell you exactly why I think that is the case in a p.m.

P.M.'s aside, I am willing to state publicly that their Chinatown outpost--assuming that it is still affiliated--is just as bad.

Erik M.

Zim,

As to the presence of Laotian dishes, my impression was that this was mostly Vietnamese diner food. I did not notice any salty beef, laap or papaya salad kind of dishes or the plethora of rice dishes I would expect at a Laotian restaurant. That being said, the english insert did not seem to nearly translate all of the menu nor was I really preoccupied with the question. I had presumed that the food would be Laotian but adjusted my expectations when the menu came. Also, my experience at Laotian restaurants is primarily colored by a number of places that I used to frequent in New York City, which while run by Laotians may not have been serving wholly authentic Laotian food.

I plan on trying to eat there again soon and will consider the question further.

Paul,

I don't really want to castigate Pho Hung (now Joyce's) in relentless detail. I eat on or about Argyle street about once per week and never see any customers at Pho Hung. The popularity of Tank's new location at the corner of Broadway and Argyle seems to have damaged the business at all the restaurants near that corner. Lack of customers often seems to set up a spiral of declining quality of ingredients and service until the inevitable oblivion occurs.

My meal was at Pho Hung was terrible but it may be unfair for me to brand the place as awful without a follow up visit. I am not sure I am brave enough to contemplate that at this time.

I only ask because I had a relatively good meal there: good pho, a great wok-seared wide rice noodle dish, excellent shrimp spring rolls, and a spicy pork soup.