While on our way to Elephant Thai for dinner last night, we were transfixed not only by the warm glow of Al Primo Canto's dining room but also by the sight of GWiv and company, sitting at a table in the window. So, we called an audible, pulled a u-turn and headed in for dinner. We were very pleased with our meal, which offered some of the more enjoyable elements of churascarria but in a "civilized" setting. No buffet here, no strolling gauchos. Just well-prepared dishes, including delectable meats cooked over charcoal, served tableside, by a polished foh'er.
But before we could even sit down, GWiv offered us a sampling of some very special raw lamb that he was enjoying. This wasn't exactly tartare, in that it was cut into much larger pieces. Chef/owner George Elbekai explained that in the leg of lamb, there are 6 muscles, and this particular dish is made using one particular muscle, which is known for its tenderness. It was sensational. I tried to snap a pic but unfortunately, failed to get one which revealed any detail.
We sat down and opted for the "endless feast," which at $30 per person, was an exceptionally good value . . .
Eggplant Caponatto...very nice baba ganoush-like dish with judicious amounts of smoke and garlic.
Pita Bread and Pao de Queijo...the toasty pita was a nice vehicle for the caponatto and the warm cheese puffs were pungent and addictive.
After the Caponatto, we were served large portions of 3 different pastas . . .
Pesto pasta
Garlic, Herb & Oil pasta
Pasta, Alfredo-style with peas
The pastas were all terrific and I could sense that if I didn't stop myself quickly, I was going to be very, very full before the meats and sides arrived at the table. We asked our server to pack them up and he told us that chef had invited us to come tour the kitchen. We happily obliged . . .
Cooker...Chef George's pride and joy. He explained that the stainless cooker was shipped in one piece, directly from Brazil. I love the fact that he uses the Royal Oak lump charcoal as his fuel, because it's my preferred fuel, too.
Our dinner, slowly turning over the orange glow of lump charcoal
Our chicken, up close and personal
Chef/owner George Elbekai was all smiles, especially when he was proudly and passionately describing his cooking process
After our kitchen tour, we returned to our table and shortly thereafter our server arrived with a glorious platter, which contained the rest of our meal . . .
Roasted Chicken, on the plate...Chef George explained that the chicken is marinated in wine and other ingredients for never less than 24 hours. That was clear, as the bird was moist and intensely flavorful.
Succulent Beef and Lamb with Green Beans and Pearl Onions...terrific stuff which I would have normally ordered rare. Here, the kitchen obliged my family's wishes and turned it out medium/medium rare.
Fried Polenta...really satisfying starchy side dish that puts Fogo de Chao's version to shame.
Crunchy Potatoes with house-made Gorgonzola sauce...these potatoes are boiled, then fried, and the result is fantastic. They're seasoned aggressively and served with the blue cheese sauce, which while delicious, wasn't at all necessary.
Salad...a nice mix of bouncy greens that included arugula and radicchio. The light vinaigrette had a wonderful lemon note that foiled the bitterness of the greens very nicely.
We also enjoyed a great bottle of wine with our meal . . .
I can't take credit for the choice, though. We tasted the bottle that the GWiv party had ordered and really loved it. So, we ordered a bottle for our table, as well.
At any point we could have asked for more of any of the items we were served because this was, after all, the "endless feast." But we were full and extremely satisfied. In fact, we tried to pass on dessert but chef generously sent out a little nibble for us to share . . .
Coconut Flan...tender, creamy and not overly sweet, this was a very nice last bite that helped bring to a close the parade of intense flavors we'd enjoyed.
I was very pleased by how wonderful our meal was. I wasn't exactly sure what to expect but now that I know, we'll definitely be returning soon. Having burnt out on churascarria dining long ago, APC was a refreshing surprise. It's not, as one might expect, a meat-driven free for all. It's a thoughtful, well-prepared and seriously filling meal that hits many high notes on its way to distinguishing itself. And I should reiterate, as was mentioned upthread, that APC also offers an
a la carte menu, too.
The Edgebrook location is startlingly convenient to the northern suburbs, too. We hopped on the Edens, exited at Touhy Ave. (west), made a left at Carpenter (aka Central) and were there in about 20 minutes. Al Primo Canto doesn't seem to get the love it deserves. I really hope that more people check it out because it's a real gem.
=R=
Al Primo Canto
5414 W. Devon
Chicago, IL 60646
773 631-0100
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