Here's a mix of comments about Shawn McClain's food, and about the digression to which this thread has turn.
I admire the commitment McClain seems to have toward using fresh, seasonal, and - when possible - local ingredients. He uses classic techniques, executed very well, to bring out the intrinsic characteristics of generally excellent ingredients. A simple, butter poached halibut with lemon, served with sauteed Indiana haricot vert was a perfect example of the above. The moist, perfectly cooked fish was quite good, but - imo - under seasoned - as I find much the food at McClain's restaurants to be. In two visits to Spring and one to GZ, I have consistently found that the kitchen used too tentative a hand with the salt and pepper.
The design of the restaurants is not for me either - style over substance, imo. For example, Spring has gorgeous, gigantic bouquets of fresh flowers throughout the room. While nice too look at, the flowers have such an intense, wafting aroma that it distracts from the food. I want restaurant decor that helps me think about, focus on, and enjoy my food. Perhaps some people go to restaurants more for different reasons. They might like these flowers, and some of the other design elements in McClain's places. Not me.
Here's one of the beauties of review forums like this, which indeed represent a set of individual, moment-in-time perspectives. By itself, you might chalk up my review to some quirky dining bias I have. However, when you look at a collective set of reviews from diverse people with, collectively, a whole lot of moment-in-time experiences, you're able to form a much fuller picture of a restaurant than a single professional reviewer could provide. Several people have reported here that they found GZ's food under seasoned. That's not to say that the next person who walks in will report the same thing, but it's a pretty good warning that if you're a person who likes robustly seasoned food, this might not be the place for you. You can thank the forum for helping you spend your entertainment dollar elsewhere. If you're someone for whom robust seasoning is not a priority, and fresh, seasonal ingredients served in a stylish room are, you might very well come away from this forum thinking that GZ is just your kind of place.
Another great feature of this forum is that it contains reviews from people I have come to know - either personally or through reading their contributions over time. Based on years of participation in the forum, I have found a whole lot of people who tend to share similar opinions about dining to mine. While their reviews don't provide me with a guarantee about a place, they're certainly more meaningful than the opinion of a random professional reviewer with whose work I am relatively unfamiliar. And, if an LTH reviewer steers me wrong, I can chastise him or her to no end at this year's picnic. I'm less likely to get that chance with Vettel, Tomarkin, and the like.