Stoney River, a Great Steakhouse and More in the North Burbs

I ate at Stoney River on Monday night, and once again the food was excellent in every way. I haven't seen much discussion of it here, so I thought I'd describe why I say so.

The atmosphere at Stoney River is similar to many steakhouses - lots of wood, fairly noisy, etc. There's one large dining room behind the hosting stand when you enter; there are also several smaller, quieter dining rooms off to the right (and I've always eaten in one of these - I've also always been there with a fairly large group, so I suspect that's why).

But now, two days later, I keep thinking back on just how good the food was. Here's what I had.

When seated, they bring you these rolls... and I'm not even sure how to describe them, other than to say that they're luscious. They are small (2-3 bites) puffs with some poppyseeds in them, and they are served with a sweetened butter. I don't know if the rolls are actually baked or fried. (Yeah, they're a little bit greasy.) They're just wonderful. Oh, and they arrive piping hot, ready to melt the butter you spread on them.

For an appetizer, I had their crab cake. And it was one of the very best I've had anywhere. This had perhaps the most crab and fewest other ingredients of any crab cake I've had anywhere. Just moist, succulent crab. With a nice sauce surrounding it, a few chopped peppers in it. Wonderful.

For a main, I had the "sauteed sea bass in coconut-lemongrass reduction with sauteed shitake mushrooms, red peppers, ginger, and cilantro". This was sinfully good. The sea bass was cooked perfectly, delicious and moist, with a slightly crispy outer crust. The flavorings gave the fish just the right subtle zing. The sauce, when eaten separately, was just wonderful, reasonably spicy, like a delicious panang you might find at a Thai restaurant that really knows what they're doing.

I also tried a couple of other dishes ordered by my dining companions. The prime rib was excellent. More interesting, and equally delicious, was the "coffee cured filet"; they take a filet and use some interesting flavorings, including coffee and molasses and I forget what else. None of those flavorings was overpowering - it didn't "taste like coffee" - and together they made the flavor of the filet delicious, with a lot of "pop". Yum.

I had the excellent caramelized onion mashed potatos as a side dish. We were too full to order dessert.

One odd note - there were two appetizers, the previously-mentioned crab cake and the tempura lobster tails, that they apparently always have but they don't include on their printed menu, although they are shown (and pictured) on their website. So if you're looking forward to one of those appetizers, don't panic when you don't see them on the printed menu; they probably still have them, just wait and your server will probably tell you about them.

Service was extremely friendly. However, there were a few service glitches (e.g. forgetting to bring a couple of dishes at the appropriate times). The fact that they recognized the problem when alerted, and bent over backwards to be nice about making sure they got them corrected, went a long way towards forgiveness.

I think this was my fourth dinner at their Deer Park location, and it has been excellent every time. (They get additional kudos for keeping up the same high quality on New Year's Eve, which is not always the case at many restaurants.) I have not yet been to their recently-opened Deerfield location. I highly recommend Stoney River to those in the northern suburbs.

Stoney River
20504 N. Rand Road, at Deer Park Town Center
Deer Park IL 60010
847-719-1596
711 Deerfield Road, at the corner of Waukegan Road
Deerfield IL 60015
847-948-5221

I've had some up and down experiences at the Deerfield Stoney River and I generally consider it to be middle of the road, when I think about it in comparison to other steakhouses. It's very close to my house, so I wish I liked it more than I do because it's definitely a convenient location. I've endured some extremely long waits for food there (even when the restaurant wasn't busy) and once had a side order of pasta served to us that tasted just like band-aids. To their credit, management dealt with these issues effectively but neither incident instilled much confidence or loyalty.

One noteworthy aspect about Stoney River is that their aged steaks are not prime grade. That results in a price point that's generally lower than most other steakhouses, which is nice. And while the meat isn't top-tier, the aging does provide a nice flavor that frankly, beats the flavor of non-aged, prime offerings at many other area joints. I'm not crazy about the rub they use on their meat and the 2 non-special-order options seem to be rubbed or unseasoned. Ordering a steak that is seasoned with only salt and pepper before it's cooked is an unnecessarily difficult special order at SR. To me, that's just not right and I've had varying levels of success when attempting such an order.

Generally speaking, I've found far too much sweetness on the savory side of the menu. I'm not a fan of the pre-dinner rolls or the sweet, not-real-butter cinnamon 'compound' they serve with them but my son certainly is. I thought the caramelized onions in the mashed potatoes were beyond sweet and tasted as if they'd been heavily sugared -- a flavor I did not care for at all, which seemed completely out of place to me. But other sides, like the asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes were fine.

I recently received a $25 coupon from Stoney River in the mail. That's a pretty generous offering in light of the fact that some steaks are actually priced below that point (or were at the time of my last visit). But even with the $25 incentive, I haven't been back. I gave the coupon to some friends who'd never been there, figuring that they'd be sure to use it. I'm sure I'll someday return to Stoney River, if someone else suggests it. But, I doubt I'll ever choose it again on my own.

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ronnie_suburban wrote:I wish I liked it more

This is a critically important line in my life which is useful for all occasions, such as:

--commenting on a restaurant or particular food item
--when unhappy with the table you are shown to
--when looking at art or talking about a piece of music
--giving feedback on something an employee worked on

It expresses dissatisfaction in the nicest possible way.

We dined at the Deerfield location once, and found it to be be adequate---Not bad but not worth travelling a great distance to patronize.

The one standout memory that I have of Stoney River is that our server asked us our first names after he introduced himself---Without missing a beat, my otherwise always-cordial wife ( who was having a crappy day ) blurted out "You don't need to know that" I couldn't believe my ears, even though I thought it to be a bizarre question.

I live about 3 minutes from there and have gone there 3 times total. I would have to say no complaints that I can remember. I do like the atmosphere and have always gotten a table near the fireplace. I thought the steaks were good though nothing to rave about. I have never tried the fish as it is my own person rule to never order seafood at a steak place and vice versa. I do have to say as far as other steak houses in the area(Jamesons, Gridleys, Lonestar and Outback) I do like it better than them. Ronnie got any others in the area you would like to suggest?

davecamaro1994 wrote:got any others in the area you would like to suggest?

Pete Miller's in Wheeling (other locations in Evanston and Schaumburg) is also very good. I've been less than thrilled with Ruth's Chris in Northbrook. I haven't yet been to Tramonto Steak and Seafood in Wheeling.

I've been to Stoney River once and the mashed potatoes tasted instant. I could not believe it from a steakhouse. If your thinking about going to stoney river in deer park, drive an extra 5 minutes on 12 and go to Bacchus Nibbles.

Sorry but don't get me started on Baccus. The great white hype. Good appetizers but all 3 dinners as wells as my friends who went seperately on a dif night has been poor to average at best. Served on some cool Picasso like plates though.

beefsandwich1 wrote:I've been to Stoney River once and the mashed potatoes tasted instant. I could not believe it from a steakhouse. If your thinking about going to stoney river in deer park, drive an extra 5 minutes on 12 and go to Bacchus Nibbles.

beefsandwich1, what do you like to eat at Bacchus Nibbles?

davecamaro1994 wrote:Ronnie got any others in the area you would like to suggest?

I'm actually not much of a steakhouse guy. I have a great butcher and I tend to make steaks for myself on a fairly regular basis.

That said, when it comes to north-suburban steaks, I like the Ruth's Chris Northbrook location and Wildfire in Lincolnshire. Neither is transcendant but they've both been consistent in my experience and I also like most of the sides at both places. I haven't been to the new Morton's in Northbrook or Pete Miller's in Wheeling (though, their Evanston location never really did much for me). I had an excellent "tomahawk" ribeye for 2 at Tramonto's Steak and Seafood, right after they first opened but I haven't been back since, so I'm not sure how relevant my experience there was.

I used to occasionally go out to Carson's for steaks because even though their ribs are not my thing, their steaks were decent and the Deerfield location is close to home but the last few times the steaks were fairly flavorless. On our most recent visit, my 10-year-old son described the steaks as 'watery' tasting and he was right. I'm assuming that no major changes have taken place at Carson's, so it's probably just another instance of having been somewhat spoiled by our butcher and our Weber kettle.

My few visits to what I consider to be the next tier down of steakhouses, like "Jamesons, Gridleys, Lonestar and Outback" or Flemings match up with yours, Dave. I'd recommend Stoney River in a heartbeat over any of these, based on my limited experience with them. FWIW, I've never been to any of these places locally but have tried a couple while traveling, when my best play was to just 'shut up and go with the flow.'

A few other north-suburban places where specific steaks can be order-worthy (in no particular order). These places are obviously not of typical steakhouse quality but these particular items are damned good in their own right. FWIW, I never order them cooked past medium rare . . .

Skirt Steak at Prairie Grass Cafe

Steak Frites at Miramar Bistro in Highwood

Skirt Steak at L. Woods Tap (formerly Bones) in Lincolnwood

Tampiquena at La Casa de Isaac in Highland Park

'The Max' skirt steak sandwich from Players' Grill in Highland Park

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Ruth's Chris
933 Skokie Blvd (in Renaissance Hotel)
Northbrook, IL 60062
847 498-6889

Wildfire
235 Parkway Dr
Lincolnshire, IL 60069
847 279-7900

Zier's Prime Meats and Poultry, Inc.
813 Ridge Road
Wilmette, IL 60091
847 251-4000

Prairie Grass Cafe
601 Skokie Blvd
Northbrook, IL 60062
847 205-4433

Miramar Bistro
301 Waukegan Ave
Highwood, IL 60040
847 433-1078

L. Woods Tap and Pine Lodge
7110 N. Lincoln Avenue
Lincolnwood, IL 60712
847 677-3350

La Casa De Isaac
431 Temple Ave
Highland Park, IL 60035
847 433-5550

Players Grill
1855 Deerfield Rd # F (in Garrity Square mall)
Highland Park, IL 60035
847 831-4445

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ronnie_suburban wrote:I like the Ruth's Chris Northbrook location and Wildfire in Lincolnshire. Neither is transcendant but they've both been consistent in my experience and I also like most of the sides at both places.

We've been to Ruth's Chris twice. The first time, they had a sweetbreads appetizer special and I ordered a double portion as an entree. It was excellent. The second time, we ordered steaks, and we had some doneness problems. We decided we really didn't like the "cook it on the platter" approach, where they bring the steak on a wooden platter with a superhot metal insert, and it's up to you to guess how long to let it keep cooking. Too inconsistent, and when we order steaks out, we are relying on the restaurant to cook them to the specified doneness. I don't even remember the sides.

We've been to Wildfire numerous times, at their locations in Lincolnshire, Glenview, and downtown. It's consistently pretty good, although nothing struck me as truly outstanding. One thing I like is that you can get a very good chopped salad (similar style to Maggiano's, not surprising since both were originally Lettuce Entertain You places).

We've found that, if you're looking only for steaks, Pete Miller's is one of the best of the bunch in the nothern burbs (other than buying meat at Zier's and making it at home). I've tried other things at Miller's and found an excellent skate special and a so-so chopped salad.

The very best steaks we've had (also the best prime rib) at a restaurant in the northern burbs have been at the Black Ram in Des Plaines. Also great sides and wonderful desserts (from their exquisitely light banana bavarian to the best rice pudding in Chicago).

Again, I haven't found a dish at any of these places as spectacular as either the crab cakes or the sea bass at Stoney River, or as unusual (and equally good) as the coffee cured filet there.

I just ate at the the Deerfield location for the second time this weekend. I live in the city, and so don't get out there much. But the in-laws have friends that moved out there, and so on occasion they visit them when they are in town, and me and the missus join them. The first time was about 5 years ago, and the experience was innocuous, but nothing special. This past weekend however...

We arrived 30 minutes before our reservation, so we told the bored-looking hostess that we were early, and that we would wait on the rest of our party at the bar. She haughtily informed us that since our entire party was not here, we would have to wait to be seated.... uhhhmmm, yeah, I think I just told you that, didn't I?

I will also mention that this was a Saturday at 6:30PM, and the place was nearly deserted...

Went to the bar, and asked the bartender for a wine list, which was woefully limited. Ordered a couple of glasses of a decent Cab for me and the missus, fought back the urge to slap the bartender when he sneered at my in-laws drink choices (Jack-n-Coke, and White Zin). Really... if your career ambition is bartending at the Stoney River in the far northern suburbs, do you really have a right to look down on anyone?

In a never-ending game between my father-in-law and I, I tried to pay the tab before he could... After serving the drinks, the bartender never once even looked at me, never taking his eyes off the baseball game on the TV overhead... I waved cash at him, and he never noticed

Our friends arrived, and were not told that we had arrived earlier, and instead waited in the entry for us, until we looked up and saw them there. This is becoming ridiculous. Luckily, all of us have a pretty good sense of humor, and so just roll with the awful service, and are seated. I catch up after literally having to throw a balled up napkin at the bartender to get his attention to pay the tab. I felt like just walking away, I was so frustrated with the service.

Did I mention that the place was nearly empty? They jammed the 6 of us into a four top. It was okay, as the confined quarters allowed us to have a nice conversation over the noise of the blaring music.

The waiter arrives, and he barely speaks English. I am not mentioning this is any sort of mean-spirited or biased way, just that the elevated noise level (ridiculously high for the number of people in there) compounded a basic dificulty in communication that led to us having to point at items on the menu and then sides, and then carefully enunciate the serving temperatures (Me: Medium Rare, please. He: Medium Well? Me: No, Medium RARE, He: Medium? Me: No... MEDIUM RARE)

After a significant wait, our orders arrive, and they mix up up everyone's orders, but we work it out, and temperatures are okay, but not quite right. Steaks are overseasoned to a fare-thee-well. They were more salty than any steak I have ever had, and to me, had an artificial taste. The seasoning overpowered the flavor of the steak itself. The asparagus side (there was an upcharge to get a veg instead of potato ) was completely unseasoned, and boiled to a limp, lifeless mass.

With our dinners finished, at least as much as we choke down, depending on the diner, our plates sat on the table for about 15 minutes. We eventually flagged down a busboy, who bussed the table, and at our request, tracked down the waiter, who had not returned to our table since taking our orders. He dropped the check and left without inquiring about our meal. Just par for the course on this evening.

I usually feel that most people are much more likely to spout off about a bad experience than a good experience, so I usually try to reserve my comments to the positive. However, this experience was so truly awful, that I felt I had to share it. I have not had a dining experience this bad in almost ten years living in Chicagoland, the only experience that came close was a dinner at a now defunct "italian" place in Palatine. Our friends, upon whose recommendation we had chosen the place, felt embarrassed and apologized. The only thing that kept us all from being furious was the fact that even under trying circumstances you can always have a good time with old friends, even if it is laughing at the ridiculously bad experience we are sharing.

My in-laws' friends, who seldom venture to the city asked if we normally got this kind of service in Chicago. I honestly replied that I had never gotten food or service that bad in the city. Next time, they are meeting us in the city, and I am taking them to Sabatino's. That's what a great little neighborhood joint should be, and great steak can be had for less than $25...

chicagovol wrote:I just ate at the the Deerfield location for the second time this weekend.

Chi,

Are we still talking about Stoney River or have you moved on to Ruth's Chris or another steakhouse mentioned in the thread?

Regards,
Gary

My wife and I ate at Stoney River in Deerfield for birthday back in March.
It was a Friday and we did have reservations, we arrived about 15 min early and were promptly seated.
The place was pretty empty, I was surprised at how few people were there.
We did have a hard time understanding our waiter who was soft spoken and had a thick accent.
The salad and appetizer were very good. We had a buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad with bacon and fried onions along with a crab cake that was really just jumbo lump crab meat in a lemon grass and caper sauce. The beef was wet aged which I am not a huge fan of, I prefer dry aged. I decided to go with the NY strip with mushrooms and Bearnaise sauce, I ordered it medium and it was cooked a perfect medium.
The beef just didn't have a depth of flavor you expect from an aged steak, the Bearnaise and mushrooms helped with that though. The wife had the Horseradish crusted filet and and it was a little over cooked for medium. Again this filet did not have a depth of flavor and needed the horseradish for help in the flavor dept. All in all it was an okay place, not great but not terrible average at best.

Had an intimate (planned) 50th birthday celebration at the Stoney River Deer Park location.

Previously, at a charity silent auction, I had won an hour's worth of cocktails in their lounge (not to exceed $125 I think), so we did it on a Sunday early evening, and figured that our party of 12 would have the lounge to ourselves, which did occur. This would be followed by retiring to the dining room for a full meal.

The high-ceilinged open lounge area, next to the bar on one side and a roaring fireplace on the other, is beautiful & was a perfect setting for chit-chatting, opening gifts & sampling Stoney River's fairly extensive (but pretty darn expensive) wine list. I can imagine how loud the area would be on a Saturday night, however. The young waitstaff was maybe a bit 'too-cool-for-school' attitudinally but not offensive, really.

The dinner? Just OK. Damn expensive for what you get. Don't remember a ton of details but my ribeye had more fat & gristle than I usually expect in a properly-marbled cut, and the sides were massive and not hot. A good barometer is the fact that we haven't been back since.

We were at a loss a couple weeks ago to pick a steak joint not too far away, and my wife said, what about Carson's? I gotta tell you--for my money, the top-quality steak in the north 'burbs is any one of the red meat offerings at the Deerfield Carson's. If you can get past the geriatric bent of the patrons (hell, I have 'cause I'm not far from it!), the waitstaff is knowledgeable, professional, and the fare, from the chopped liver to the ice-cold salad to the 'same-as-1980' cole slaw to the filet or strip is as fine as it gets.

G Wiv wrote:

chicagovol wrote:I just ate at the the Deerfield location for the second time this weekend.

Chi,

Are we still talking about Stoney River or have you moved on to Ruth's Chris or another steakhouse mentioned in the thread?

Regards,
Gary

I was definitely speaking about the Stoney River... sorry for a lack of clarity...

Served their last meal on December 31, 2010.

Cathy2 wrote:Served their last meal on December 31, 2010.

Their Deer Park location is still open though.