Dry Seviche in Bucerias, Nayarit
Up north of Puerto Vallarta in Nayarit, there’s Bucerias, “the place of the divers,” which was described to us a little fishing village, which it kind of is. There’s also a large market, some bars and street vendors, and El Gordo, a place to eat along the beach. We had a bunch of stuff, starting with a “seviche seco.”
Most of the seviche (ceviche, escabeche) I’ve had has been “wet” – that is, if not soaking in an acidic solution (lime, vinegar, whatever), at least moist with acid. This stuff was hardly moist, uses no lime or vinegar or other obvious acid, and is very light, bright with tomato, onion, carrot, cuke and parsley, and with a relatively modest amount of white fish. My guess is that this type of seviche is very forgiving to the type of fish used; you can probably use just about any finny creature, mix with veg and salt, and then mill it all together. I liked it with crackers.
Nayarit is like a ten peso (one buck) bus ride from PV, and I had wanted to visit because some believe that Aztlan, the legendary ancestral home of the Aztec, was in Nayarit. Then again, others believe it was in Wisconsin.
Mariscos El Gordo
Av. Del Pacifico, No. 6
Bucerias, Nay.
322.131.3114
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins