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How do you clean and/or season a cast iron skillet?

How do you clean and/or season a cast iron skillet?
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  • How do you clean and/or season a cast iron skillet?

    Post #1 - January 27th, 2008, 2:45 pm
    Post #1 - January 27th, 2008, 2:45 pm Post #1 - January 27th, 2008, 2:45 pm
    I have a couple of cast iron skillets and I want to make sure I care for them correctly. I did some lth research and there were a few threads that discussed seasoning but not really what that meant. I also googled the topic and found the following:
    1. http://whatscookingamerica.net/Information/CastIronPans.htm I like this one because it seems pretty comprehensive
    2. http://huntsville.about.com/cs/food/ht/Cast_Iron.htm on seasoning
    3. http://huntsville.about.com/od/food/qt/cleancastiron.htm on cleaning.
    4. http://www.ehow.com/how_11103_season-cast-iron.htm


    After reading the links above, it seems as though there are 2 differences in technique. First, whether or not to use soap after that first cleaning. I tend to agree with article number 1 above because it seems to make sense that if you don't use soap, grease left behind from previous cooks would eventually become rancid. The second thing is whether to use the stove or oven to heat up the skillet after washing and oiling. So, let's start the discussion! What's the best way to season and/or clean a cast iron skillet?
    "Skin that smoke wagon and see what happens..."
    - Wyatt Earp, Tombstone
  • Post #2 - January 27th, 2008, 2:49 pm
    Post #2 - January 27th, 2008, 2:49 pm Post #2 - January 27th, 2008, 2:49 pm
    Cook lots of bacon.
    Eat lots of bacon.
    Repeat several times.
    I love restaurants. You're sitting there and all of a sudden, there's food. It's like magic.
    - Brian Wilson
  • Post #3 - January 27th, 2008, 3:04 pm
    Post #3 - January 27th, 2008, 3:04 pm Post #3 - January 27th, 2008, 3:04 pm
    Soap+cast iron=bad idea.

    I've never had a problem with rancid oil in my cast iron skill--as long as you wipe the skillet clean after every use; you can use hot-hot water and salt to scrub up any char-y bits. But soap will eat away at the surface of the skillet so you never get that blackened, nonstick sheen--which is sortof the whole point of a cast iron skillet.

    I can see maybe using soap the very first time you clean it--to remove any machine oil before cooking. But not for everyday cleaning.
  • Post #4 - January 27th, 2008, 3:10 pm
    Post #4 - January 27th, 2008, 3:10 pm Post #4 - January 27th, 2008, 3:10 pm
    I use my cast iron pans a lot. Generally, I don't use detergent - just a scrubbing with a green nylon Scotch-Brite - type pad, although when I have used a little detergent, I haven't noticed any negative impact on the seasoning. When I have re-seasoned, I've always used the oven - takes longer, but my gut feeling is there must be some benefit to the more even heat all over the pan.

    My 2¢, YMMV.
  • Post #5 - January 27th, 2008, 4:03 pm
    Post #5 - January 27th, 2008, 4:03 pm Post #5 - January 27th, 2008, 4:03 pm
    Whatever method you choose (and they're all reasonable) it is vital to completely dry your skillet before putting it away. Cast iron will rust quickly if this step is not taken every time.
  • Post #6 - January 27th, 2008, 9:33 pm
    Post #6 - January 27th, 2008, 9:33 pm Post #6 - January 27th, 2008, 9:33 pm
    My pre-seasoned Lodge 5 Qt: I don't cook anything overly acidic in it(the most is a squirt or so of tomato paste), when I'm done I clean it with soft abrasive sponge+a dollop of dish soap, after cleaning I heat it on the stovetop until any residual moisture evaporates then spray it down ---inside/kettle surfaces/inside of lid--- with Pam *recommended by Lodge*, heat thru until just smoking, finish by swabbing out with paper towel bundle.

    My dutch oven remains lustrous and black.

    It's also a good idea when storing to place a hand towel overlapping between the lid and vessel; this lets air circulate and inhibits moisture collection.
    Being gauche rocks, stun the bourgeoisie
  • Post #7 - January 28th, 2008, 9:47 am
    Post #7 - January 28th, 2008, 9:47 am Post #7 - January 28th, 2008, 9:47 am
    No soap, no high-acid foods. However. If some soap happens to be used (for example by a visiting relative who just can't imagine that the pan can get clean without it), or some tomato sauce happens to be cooked in it, the worst that will happen is that the coating will degrade and you need to season it some more. And if your pan is already well seasoned, then chances are the pan will survive the occasional tomato sauce or soap-wash without ill effects.

    As far as old oil getting rancid on the pan, I have never experienced that nor have I ever heard of that happening. I do make sure (using a lightly abrasive sponge or scrubbing brush) that all the FOOD is cleaned from the pan.

    And with regard to the poster who wrote

    Cook lots of bacon.
    Eat lots of bacon.
    Repeat several times.


    I would say, Second that. Bacon grease has consistently provided the best, quickest seasoning/reseasoning for my pans.

    Basically, you can't hurt cast-iron pans. I've had some of mine for more than 20 years.
  • Post #8 - January 28th, 2008, 10:55 am
    Post #8 - January 28th, 2008, 10:55 am Post #8 - January 28th, 2008, 10:55 am
    debo wrote:Basically, you can't hurt cast-iron pans. I've had some of mine for more than 20 years.


    I agree. I tend not to use soap but if I have to, I try just a little bit. I've used course kosher salt and a tiny bit of baking soda to clean mine. Like above, I'll clean it then oil and heat it before wiping it down for storage. Something must be right, this pan was used by my great grandmother, grandmother, now me. I figure it has over 80 years of use and nothing sticks to it.

    Good luck.
  • Post #9 - January 28th, 2008, 1:42 pm
    Post #9 - January 28th, 2008, 1:42 pm Post #9 - January 28th, 2008, 1:42 pm
    I've tried just about everything to see what works and what doesn't.

    This applies to both my wok, which was purchased with no seasoning and a pre-seasoned cast iron pan. Initially I oiled the wok and the skillet lightly when I put them away....then I eventually noticed that the wok was rancid (I use it less). So, this is not effective unless you use it frequently or possibly use a very thin film. I abandoned it. My partner tried soap and it definitely stripped the finish. So, there had to be something in between.

    That left me with a wok that I really needed to build up a good coating. What seems to work best it to fry lots of oily things initially to build up the excellent coating and carefully avoid acid and soap. For me and the wok, it meant that I didn't use it to do all the things I wanted initially, because they would stick to much and I'd have to clean with soap, etc. So, I only used it for frying and stir frying in oil to start. After 3 years, now I can use it for sauces and have it work well.

    To clean both, I dump the remaining oil (or other contents), then wipe out with a paper towel. Next, I put in hot water. It I have burned bits, I put the pan back on the burner and use a scraper or spatula to remove the bits with the water simmering. Dump the water, wipe with paper towel, and back on the heat to dry it.

    After two years of this, my pre-seasoned pan is exceptionally well seasoned. Now I can use a bit of soap with no consequences, as noted by another poster. The wok is finally is pretty good shape, but I still have to be careful - I used a some tomatoes in it a few weeks ago and definitely pulled off some of the seasoning...so it's just not ready to handle that yet.
  • Post #10 - January 28th, 2008, 1:49 pm
    Post #10 - January 28th, 2008, 1:49 pm Post #10 - January 28th, 2008, 1:49 pm
    ViewsAskew wrote:I've tried just about everything to see what works and what doesn't.

    This applies to both my wok, which was purchased with no seasoning and a pre-seasoned cast iron pan. Initially I oiled the wok and the skillet lightly when I put them away....then I eventually noticed that the wok was rancid (I use it less). So, this is not effective unless you use it frequently or possibly use a very thin film. I abandoned it. My partner tried soap and it definitely stripped the finish. So, there had to be something in between.


    After you rubbed oil on the cast iron pan, did you heat it? The usual practice is to rub the inside of the pan with a very thin layer of some kind of fat and then heat it in a 350 oven for about an hour or so. Then let it cool and wipe off any excess.

    Incidentally, I find that using oil leaves the surface a little sticky. That's why many recommend using bacon fat, lard, etc. Since I always have oil on hand, I use it despite the little bit of stickiness.
  • Post #11 - January 28th, 2008, 2:45 pm
    Post #11 - January 28th, 2008, 2:45 pm Post #11 - January 28th, 2008, 2:45 pm
    Hi,

    If cornbread was your daily staple, then using the coarse corn meal to rub clean your skillet has 2-for-1 benefits: clean skillet and seasoned cornmeal to make your next batch.

    I didn't make this up. I've read it in household hints section of cookbooks of bygone eras.

    Regards,
    Cathy2

    "You'll be remembered long after you're dead if you make good gravy, mashed potatoes and biscuits." -- Nathalie Dupree
    Facebook, Twitter, Greater Midwest Foodways, Road Food 2012: Podcast
  • Post #12 - January 28th, 2008, 4:40 pm
    Post #12 - January 28th, 2008, 4:40 pm Post #12 - January 28th, 2008, 4:40 pm
    debo wrote: And if your pan is already well seasoned, then chances are the pan will survive the occasional tomato sauce or soap-wash without ill effects.



    When my 10" Lodge pan was new, I never used soap to clean it. I followed many of the suggestions that have already been offered.

    Now that it is 20 years old, I ALWAYS use Dawn ( or some such handwashing product ). I have found that by using this type of degreaser eliminates the need for scrubbing, which would damage the patina of the pan.
  • Post #13 - January 28th, 2008, 4:55 pm
    Post #13 - January 28th, 2008, 4:55 pm Post #13 - January 28th, 2008, 4:55 pm
    Here's a another tip: I always season pans upside down. It ensures that the coating on the inside of the pan stays even. This first time I seasoned a cast iron pan (a cast iron comal, actually), the lard pooled to one side of the pan, and it didn't end up pretty.
  • Post #14 - January 28th, 2008, 5:00 pm
    Post #14 - January 28th, 2008, 5:00 pm Post #14 - January 28th, 2008, 5:00 pm
    I agree with kanin's excellent tip - it's one of the reasons I do my seasoning in the oven.
  • Post #15 - January 30th, 2008, 10:06 am
    Post #15 - January 30th, 2008, 10:06 am Post #15 - January 30th, 2008, 10:06 am
    Christopher Gordon wrote:My pre-seasoned Lodge 5 Qt: I don't cook anything overly acidic in it(the most is a squirt or so of tomato paste), when I'm done I clean it with soft abrasive sponge+a dollop of dish soap, after cleaning I heat it on the stovetop until any residual moisture evaporates then spray it down ---inside/kettle surfaces/inside of lid--- with Pam *recommended by Lodge*, heat thru until just smoking, finish by swabbing out with paper towel bundle.

    My dutch oven remains lustrous and black.

    It's also a good idea when storing to place a hand towel overlapping between the lid and vessel; this lets air circulate and inhibits moisture collection.

    I was always told Pam is bad for cast iron because of the additives in it like alcohol .
    I just wipe mine down with a thin layer of Crisco before storing
  • Post #16 - January 30th, 2008, 1:04 pm
    Post #16 - January 30th, 2008, 1:04 pm Post #16 - January 30th, 2008, 1:04 pm
    deke rivers wrote:
    Christopher Gordon wrote:My pre-seasoned Lodge 5 Qt: I don't cook anything overly acidic in it(the most is a squirt or so of tomato paste), when I'm done I clean it with soft abrasive sponge+a dollop of dish soap, after cleaning I heat it on the stovetop until any residual moisture evaporates then spray it down ---inside/kettle surfaces/inside of lid--- with Pam *recommended by Lodge*, heat thru until just smoking, finish by swabbing out with paper towel bundle.

    My dutch oven remains lustrous and black.

    It's also a good idea when storing to place a hand towel overlapping between the lid and vessel; this lets air circulate and inhibits moisture collection.

    I was always told Pam is bad for cast iron because of the additives in it like alcohol .
    I just wipe mine down with a thin layer of Crisco before storing


    Odd, then, that it's recommended in the instructional materials that come with the Lodge pre-seasoned dutch oven.
    Being gauche rocks, stun the bourgeoisie
  • Post #17 - January 31st, 2008, 11:05 pm
    Post #17 - January 31st, 2008, 11:05 pm Post #17 - January 31st, 2008, 11:05 pm
    Thanks everyone for all of the great advice!
    "Skin that smoke wagon and see what happens..."
    - Wyatt Earp, Tombstone
  • Post #18 - September 15th, 2009, 1:52 am
    Post #18 - September 15th, 2009, 1:52 am Post #18 - September 15th, 2009, 1:52 am
    I was aware that very acidic foods, such as citrus, should not be used in cast iron, but I was surprised to see some people say that milder acids, such as wine, shouldn't be used. Isn't coq au vin one of the hallmark dishes of a dutch oven?
  • Post #19 - September 15th, 2009, 5:12 am
    Post #19 - September 15th, 2009, 5:12 am Post #19 - September 15th, 2009, 5:12 am
    mrrockmusic wrote:I was aware that very acidic foods, such as citrus, should not be used in cast iron, but I was surprised to see some people say that milder acids, such as wine, shouldn't be used. Isn't coq au vin one of the hallmark dishes of a dutch oven?



    Many dutch ovens, mine included, are an enameled cast iron, so i don't have the same reservations about using acid, tomatos, soap on them. If not, i've used my regular cast iron skillet to roast chicken that has had lemon in it and made pan sauces in it with wine, without major issues.
  • Post #20 - June 28th, 2011, 4:28 pm
    Post #20 - June 28th, 2011, 4:28 pm Post #20 - June 28th, 2011, 4:28 pm
    Grandma's skillet is getting a new finish!
    AKA
    (Oh my god, what have I done?)
    Image
    Now, it is time to get me some oil.....
    I'm working with this seasoning concept
    http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/ ... cast-iron/
  • Post #21 - June 28th, 2011, 5:34 pm
    Post #21 - June 28th, 2011, 5:34 pm Post #21 - June 28th, 2011, 5:34 pm
    mhill95149 wrote:(Oh my god, what have I done?)


    Whyyyyyyyyyy?!?!?!?!
    Steve Z.

    “Only the pure in heart can make a good soup.”
    ― Ludwig van Beethoven
  • Post #22 - June 28th, 2011, 6:23 pm
    Post #22 - June 28th, 2011, 6:23 pm Post #22 - June 28th, 2011, 6:23 pm
    http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/ ... cast-iron/ wrote:The seasoning on cast iron is formed by fat polymerization, fat polymerization is maximized with a drying oil, and flaxseed oil is the only drying oil that’s edible.

    Not true. Walnut oil, or any oil from a true nut (e.g. not peanut), is a drying oil, and walnut oil makes a harder surface than flaxseed oil, IMHO. And you can use the leftover oil to make a nice salad dressing.
  • Post #23 - June 28th, 2011, 6:46 pm
    Post #23 - June 28th, 2011, 6:46 pm Post #23 - June 28th, 2011, 6:46 pm
    stevez wrote:
    mhill95149 wrote:(Oh my god, what have I done?)


    Whyyyyyyyyyy?!?!?!?!

    it was super uneven and the sides were CAKED with years and years ( figure 60 years) and not so "non-stick" anymore...
  • Post #24 - June 29th, 2011, 2:24 pm
    Post #24 - June 29th, 2011, 2:24 pm Post #24 - June 29th, 2011, 2:24 pm
    mhill95149 wrote:Grandma's skillet is getting a new finish!
    AKA
    (Oh my god, what have I done?)

    Now, it is time to get me some oil.....
    I'm working with this seasoning concept
    http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/ ... cast-iron/


    I spent a rather long Sunday (from 5am to 1am, with two additional coats the next day) working through that process on some antique Griswold skillets last month.

    I used flaxseed oil and baked at 550, since that's as high as my oven went, putting a total of six coats on the pans. I also read her later post on black rust and did a "dry" run through the oven before oiling.

    The results are beautiful (I'll try and remember to snap some photos tonight), but I was troubled by the amount of black residue that wiped off after I initially used the pans. I'm left wondering if 550F was actually too hot. (She used 450F, but recommended 500.) The skillets are nicely non-stick and the coating isn't tacky like my other skillets could wind up when seasoned with vegetable oil or crisco.

    Either way, it'll be awhile before I finish the rest of the set. It's just too warm now to run my oven that high for that long.
    -Pete
  • Post #25 - June 29th, 2011, 3:29 pm
    Post #25 - June 29th, 2011, 3:29 pm Post #25 - June 29th, 2011, 3:29 pm
    Pete wrote:
    mhill95149 wrote:Grandma's skillet is getting a new finish!
    AKA
    (Oh my god, what have I done?)

    Now, it is time to get me some oil.....
    I'm working with this seasoning concept
    http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/ ... cast-iron/


    I spent a rather long Sunday (from 5am to 1am, with two additional coats the next day) working through that process on some antique Griswold skillets last month.

    I'll do my smaller two skillets too but I'm not going to do it all at once. I'll do a coat every time I make bread or pizza.
  • Post #26 - June 29th, 2011, 8:16 pm
    Post #26 - June 29th, 2011, 8:16 pm Post #26 - June 29th, 2011, 8:16 pm
    I never use soap - just hot water and a clean scotch-brite.

    I don't worry about acid foods. I have learned that gravy comes out sickly gray rather than nice tan. :(

    I toast croûtons with some olive oil to season my pans. I see recommendations for oil that does not include EVOO so I guess I'm doing it wrong.

    If I had one with lots of build up that I wanted to remove, I'd build a nice hot camp fire around it. That's a lot more fun that scrubbing everything out!
  • Post #27 - June 29th, 2011, 9:21 pm
    Post #27 - June 29th, 2011, 9:21 pm Post #27 - June 29th, 2011, 9:21 pm
    HankB wrote:I never use soap - just hot water and a clean scotch-brite.

    I don't worry about acid foods. I have learned that gravy comes out sickly gray rather than nice tan. :(

    I toast croûtons with some olive oil to season my pans. I see recommendations for oil that does not include EVOO so I guess I'm doing it wrong.

    If I had one with lots of build up that I wanted to remove, I'd build a nice hot camp fire around it. That's a lot more fun that scrubbing everything out!


    The soap myth harkens back to an era when "soap" meant "lye". A serious seasoning won't simply wash off. Cook's Illustrated actually used the above mentioned seasoning process and ran their cast iron pans through a commercial dishwasher without issue.

    The camp fire (or even self-cleaning oven on cleaning cycle) method will certainly remove anything stuck on the pan, but you also risk warping or cracking it. I don't hesitate to throw my trusty old Lodge directly onto coals to make fajitas, but I wouldn't do that to my antique stuff.
    -Pete
  • Post #28 - June 30th, 2011, 11:32 am
    Post #28 - June 30th, 2011, 11:32 am Post #28 - June 30th, 2011, 11:32 am
    I actually reseasoned a cast iron pan a few weeks back using the flaxseed oil approach, and I have been quite amazed at the results. It's the best and quickest seasoning I've got on a cast iron pan. I would highly recommend it to anyone.

    I have read a bunch of comments with people having issues with it flaking off after a few uses, but then read the solution was to bake the pans not at the highest setting (550 on my oven), but at 450. So if anyone else is going to do this, do it at 450.
    Last edited by Binko on June 30th, 2011, 11:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
  • Post #29 - June 30th, 2011, 11:42 am
    Post #29 - June 30th, 2011, 11:42 am Post #29 - June 30th, 2011, 11:42 am
    nr706 wrote:
    http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/ ... cast-iron/ wrote:The seasoning on cast iron is formed by fat polymerization, fat polymerization is maximized with a drying oil, and flaxseed oil is the only drying oil that’s edible.

    Not true. Walnut oil, or any oil from a true nut (e.g. not peanut), is a drying oil, and walnut oil makes a harder surface than flaxseed oil, IMHO. And you can use the leftover oil to make a nice salad dressing.


    Supposedly, what you're looking for is oils with high iodine values. According to one of the comments there, the higher the value, the better the oil's ability to polymerize. Walnut oil does have a very high iodine value--around 150 or so. Flaxseed oil is 170-200, so, theoretically, it should be better, but the difference seems to be marginal. I like the flaxseed oil and the results it gives, but its rather limited in its culinary uses (although there are parts of Germany--particularly the Sorbian area--where flaxseed oil is used to flavor quark and even potatoes.)
  • Post #30 - June 30th, 2011, 12:41 pm
    Post #30 - June 30th, 2011, 12:41 pm Post #30 - June 30th, 2011, 12:41 pm
    Pete wrote:The soap myth harkens back to an era when "soap" meant "lye". A serious seasoning won't simply wash off. Cook's Illustrated actually used the above mentioned seasoning process and ran their cast iron pans through a commercial dishwasher without issue.


    I agree. I haven't found that quick dunk in soapy water makes a difference to well-seasoned cast-iron or steel pans.

    I hand wash and rinse the pan, using a plastic scrubber for any crusted-on gunk, and then I dry it well and put on a burner with a little cooking oil in the bottom and let it heat up. When the oil is hot, I take a thick wad of paper towel and scrub it around the inside. I keep doing that with more towels until they come away clean. Then I let the pan cool and put it away.

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