Mrs. JiLS and I just got back from a very enjoyable Sunday dinner at
Rustik, a new restaurant (open just two weeks) here in Logan Square. It would be hard to believe this well-oiled machine was only open such a short time, if I did not know better. I watched them build the space over the past several months, and the payoff is here. The service was fantastic, the food very good, the room attractive, the whole package very appealing. And busy, on a Sunday night, as well; I think this may be the restaurant Logan Square needs, what Dunlay's hoped to be but could not accomplish.
The food is slightly upscale comfort food with a European slant. We started with a very nice meat and cheese plate, with a subtly flavored country pate, cornichons, a bit of sausage and ham, and three cheeses, all flavored (the best being a cranberry-infused concoction that was like an appetizer version of cheesecake).
My main was a vegetable "pot pie," actually a savory vegetarian stew with a biscuit plopped in the middle. First, I'll note that this biscuit was
very good, certainly better than the Chicago accepted standard for biscuits. The stew included parsnips, sweet potatoes and peas and although a bit under-salted (obviously something I was able to remedy easily), a fine dish that I would highly recommend.
Mrs. JiLS had a seafood pasta, with very garlicky (not overly so) shrimp and scallops and sliced grape tomatoes. Very good flavor and presentation, with seafood that was OK, if not amazing, but good enough for a dish like this (especially with the strong flavoring of the sauce; did I mention GARLIC?). Maybe not a top recommendation, but a good choice if you are here and want a pasta.
Dessert was the real highlight, a German butter cake, served with ice cream. This was extremely satisfying pastry, flaky and buttery on top, filled with glorious sweet goo, warm and warming. We remarked while eating the cake that it tasted more like a family recipe than a "chef's dessert," and darned if we weren't right. We learned it's the chef's
grandma's recipe. I was born into the wrong family. The ice cream was quite nice, but it was chocolate, which even though very good was not the right flavor match for the cake. I'd say maybe a caramel or even just plain vanilla would be a better choice. But that's nit-picking, because the dessert was amazing. Very good coffee, too.
Portions are large, not gigantic. Service was friendly, professional and swift, even with the very large crowd that grew during our visit. Clearly, Rustik is filling a niche. Just a little bit upscale, just a little bit hip (the techno soundtrack maybe has to go), beautiful decor of stone and glass. They've sacrificed a section in the middle of the restaurant, behind the bar, to create a glass-enclosed mini-garden, which will be fun to watch develop through the seasons; they had Christmas trees in there tonight. Fairly interesting wine list that, while relatively short, is diverse and well-thought out, with representative wines from Europe, Australia and New World. And, as noted above, very professional FOH that feels like they've been there for years. I'm happy to have Rustik here and will be going back.
Rustik
2515 N. California
Chicago, IL 60647
(773) 235-0002
JiLS