We met some friends at Vie for dinner this past weekend and things were humming along quite amazingly. Because of the Slow Food event held on Sunday 2/10, the Vie people had missed their customary day off and this was the 13th consecutive day on which the restaurant had been open. In spite of that -- or perhaps, because of it -- this may have been the best meal I've ever had there . . .
Amuse of pork belly and pickled cherries . . . there's nothing quite like an unanticipated slab of crispy, sticky pork belly. This amuse was delicious and I loved the sweet/sour house-pickled Rainier cherries that accompanied it.
Berkshire pork cheek ''ossobucco" with risotto milanese, gremolata and parmigiano reggiano . . . a fun and tasty take on the traditional version. This was tender and delicious.
Yukon gold potato gnocchi with wild mushrooms, fines herbes and parmigiano reggiano . . . fantastic flavors and great textures. The gnocchi were light, with a pleasant density to them.
Creamy, farm-fresh eggs with perigord black truffles, butter, whipped cream and wood-grilled bread . . . this was so simple, yet amazingly satisfying. As a breakfast dish, this would make eggs benedict seem downright pedestrian by comparison.
Not pictured:
Roasted winter roots with picked herbs, house-made ranch dressing and farm-fresh deviled egg . . . another inspired dish, which really showcased the 'winter' skills of Vie's kitchen. If Vie were in California, this dish might not even exist. Instead, the "off season" inspired something truly delicious and original.
Cream of house-made sauerkraut soup with house-made boudin blanc, organic creme fraiche and rustic croutons . . . this may have been my favorite dish of the entire meal. The components fit together so well, with the slight tartness of the boudin blanc accenting the creamy sauerkraut perfectly.
Red wine-braised short ribs with horseradish dumplings, roasted beets and winter radishes, pickled beets and braising jus . . . perfectly braised and immensely flavorful short ribs were terrific, as were the dense, slightly chewy horseradish-laden dumplings. The beets, both pickled and roasted, were a great accent.
Domestic lamb combination: roasted rack with house-made lamb sausage, served here with the sides that were listed with the short ribs . . . sensational rack (thank you, doctor

), which was perfectly cooked and a beautiful puck of flavor-packed, grilled sausage. A fantastic combination.
Marinated, wood-grilled fluke with Wisconsin fingerling potatoes, herb aioli, pickled garlic, shaved radishes and fried, house-made pickles . . . I'm not sure which part of this dish I liked the most . . . the rich, wood-grilled fluke, the tender, delicate potatoes, the intense aioli or the decadant fried pickles. What a great dish!
Gunthorp Farm chicken 2 ways: breaded, fried breast and crispy chicken-sausage pierogis with beer-braised cabbage, pickled red onion and jus de poulet . . . this was also just amazing. As much as I loved the short ribs, I ended up commandeering this plate because it was simply glorious. The breast was crispy and juicy, the pierogi were just awesome; their filling was aggressively seasoned and moist, and their exteriors were browned to perfection.
House-made pot pie of Burgundy escargot and chestnuts . . . this was another treat sent out to the table by the kitchen and what a treat it was. The buttery pastry matched up extremely well with the escargot and the chestnuts provided a tasty, textural contrast. I loved the fresh herbs, too, which elevated the dish even further.
Side dish of new potatoes and spicy, pickled green beans . . . this was another side that was sent out by the kitchen. The tender, roasted potatoes -- cooked in duck fat -- were accented just wonderfully by the slightly spicy pickled green beans. I loved this one.
Prairie Fruits Farm chevre with slivered almonds, house-made jam and toast . . . yet another treat from the kitchen, this cheese course bridged the gap beautifully between the savory and sweet courses. The rich, pungent cheese seemed to have a hint of smokiness to it, which was great. I also loved the house-made jam, which was aromatic and perfectly balanced between sweet and tart.
Intermezzo of Rosé sorbet . . . tasty, refreshing bridge between the cheese and the sweets.
Tahitian vanilla creme brulee with cinnamon butter cookies, maple & orange granola and sweetened, whipped creme fraiche . . . what a glorious rendition! Not only was the dish executed masterfully, but the well-matched accompanying elements would have even been great on their own. I loved every aspect of this compelling dessert. Not long ago some friends and I were discussing our feeling that creme brulee is so often a perfunctory waste of space. In this instance, however, the dish was both distinctive and memorable.
Cornmeal doughnuts with organic buttermilk ice cream, lady finger Spring Valley Farm caramel-coated popcorn and caramel sauce . . . great flavors and textures here. The rich doughnuts were crispy and tender and the buttermilk ice cream provided a perfect cool and creamy sour note that foiled their richness very successfully.
Chef Gabriel Rucker's 'Au Bon Cannard' foie gras ice cream with profiteroles and caramel sauce . . . ok, this wasn't quite the 'Iron Chef' moment we thought it might be. After being advised by a few staffers that this dessert -- served at Vie during a recent guest stint by chef Rucker of Le Pigeon in Portland, OR -- should not be missed, we ordered it. In spite of our initial concerns, it was great. The ice cream tasted like cold, creamy, maple-y sweet butter. Joe Moore would have loved this one
Warm caramel gooey butter cake with almond-chocolate chip ice cream, almond lace cookie and almond toffee square . . . yet another innovative and satisfying incarnation of what has become my favorite Vie dessert. The gooey butter cake is always great but the caramel element, combined with the delicious ice cream, made this one of my favorite versions.
Illinois black walnut brittle . . . a crunchy, tasty last bite in which the funkiness of the black walnuts really came through. It was sweet too, but not to the point where the distinctive nuts were obscured. Very nice.
Vie continues to hit me on such an emotional and spiritual level, it's hard to analyze it. Each time I go there, I'm impressed by the way the dishes build in impact as the meal progresses. At so many other restaurants, after the short, intense burst of flavors provided by the starter courses, the entrees often fail to compel, and the momentum is lost. But at Vie, the exact opposite is true. Yes, the appetizers literally appetize -- hell, they dazzle -- but the inspired, imaginative and satisfying entrees just blow you away. There is no palate fatigue at Vie. Chef Virant and his crew may have the best senses of culinary build and pacing that I have experienced. The menu at Vie changes frequently and while that definitely benefits the diner, it's significant in that seems to be a natural extension of how this crew is constantly pushing themselves to build on what they have already accomplished. When you dine at Vie, you're tapping into the ongoing creative process of a uniquely-talented chef and a kitchen with a truly artistic sensibility. I'm sure customer satisfaction is important at Vie but I get the feeling that no one is harder to satisfy than chef Virant himself.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain